Good Suspension set-ups for quick 60' times?

[Gooberlog]

I did searching on this topic and didn't find many straight answers. Most of the results were for 2g's which have a very different suspension than 1g's. I also noticed that there isn't much suspension info available in the "handling tech" section so i was hoping to get some good feed back from the drag racing guys that are cutting good sixty foot times with 1g's (1.6's and better).

I'm looking for suspension recommendations for my '92 awd 5speed for drag racing results. I plan on running street tires (car has 225/50/16 BFG T/A KDW's on FD RX-7 wheels) but would consider running slicks in the future. Are there non coil over set ups that will allow the fitment of slicks and provide good results at the drag strip? If so which coil springs will clear slicks?

The car is somewhat light with a current race weight of 2700 pounds and getting lighter, so with that weight removed there is 4-5 inches of clearance between the fenders and the tires. If i were to install an Eibach prokit as i did on my old car with weight mods, i would still have a large tire to fender gap. Sportlines or 2" drop megan racing springs would be better but will they clear slicks and would i still need to use a camber and toe kit for that drop as the ride height will be high but the suspension will still drop the same.

I was thinking of selecting a coil spring that offers a good drop to improve the fender gap and then run rear KYB AGX shocks to stiffen the suspension and weight transfer at the drag strip.

What springs are recommended to improve my 4-5" fender to tire gap and help my launches at the track with the help of some AGX's in the rear. What other aids will help my launching such as ingles rear toe eliminators, polly urethane control arm, sway bar, engine mounts,sub frame mounts etc. and will make a big difference on launching a awd 1g? What suspension mods will make the best set up for drag racing? I would like to avoid a coil over set up if possible as I'm on a tight budget unless they are highly recommended over a coil spring for drag racing.

 

[SBstar]

I would suggest Koni's over the AGX's for sure, a much better option if you're sticking with the strut/spring combo. As for springs that's a bit tougher, I guess I really haven't done my homework on them. In the end you have to figure out what the best spring rate is going to be for your setup, might not hurt to call up a company who specializes in them and ask.

Also something you know, but also something to add to the thread. Replacing all those old stock crusty bushings will go a long way in improving your 60 ft times. The rear subframe and mustache brace bushings are especially important.

 

[Phil1320]

Well, I say do every bushing you can....I have everything you mentioned in my car including the ingalls upper rear adjustable arms, and the rear toe eliminator. I ran Eibach pros' with AGX's for years and ran mid-high 1.6's with them on street tires. If you keep your weight where it is you can get a good launch with that set-up. I run the huge and heavy Suspension Tech rear swaybar. Front swaybar is removed. Running a larger rear sway bar was recommended for improving launches years back, but as light as my car is now with the JIC's, it probably doesn't help as much anymore, and I'd probably launch just the same with it off the car....which is a thought because it's super heavy. Front lower control arm bushings are important ones because they ward off the forward/rearward motion of the front wheels/tires when they are grabbing traction. Front subframe bushings and motor mounts are a must as well. There is so much play in our cars especially high mileage examples. Proof of this is in all those pics of cars pointing to the sky.....while it looks cool, the up/down, nose dive, all that motion kills speed and sometimes makes for a tough 1-2 shift. I don't have to worry about any of that now because the car is solid, I don't lose sight of the track in first gear, and I can make solid shifts.

 

[habitatguy187]

Front lower control arm bushings are important ones because they ward off the forward/rearward motion of the front wheels/tires when they are grabbing traction.

Can you explain this in a little more detail? Are you talking about the suspension techniques poly bushings? I'd like to do these but I've read that they're a major pain in the backside.

Front subframe bushings are a must as well.

I don't understand this either. Sorry for being such a newb but if you could explain this one as well that'd be great.

 

[Phil1320]

Can you explain this in a little more detail? Are you talking about the suspension techniques poly bushings? I'd like to do these but I've read that they're a major pain in the backside.



I don't understand this either. Sorry for being such a newb but if you could explain this one as well that'd be great.

No prob, basically, replacing the factory front subfram bushings(4) and front lower control are bushings(4) with Prothane or Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings. They are a bit of a pain, but well worth the time. The subframe is hard as it needs to be removed for the ease of installing the bushings.

 

[habitatguy187]

No prob, basically, replacing the factory front subfram bushings(4) and front lower control are bushings(4) with Prothane or Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings. They are a bit of a pain, but well worth the time. The subframe is hard as it needs to be removed for the ease of installing the bushings.

Yeah I know which bushings you're talking about but I don't understand how they could help drag racing and traction.

 

[Gooberlog]

Bushings:So stiffening up the worn out bushings with polly bushings will make a big difference when trying to put the power to the ground, ok got it. I have the side engine and trans polly mounts and i have the rear engine torque mount in the garage to swap out. I still need to order the front engine roll stop polly mount, polly control arm bushings when i pull the A-arms off to replace the lower ball joints, maybe sway bar polly bushings, rear mustache and rear subframe bushings which are a surprising $175-200!, and some more. I've noticed that extremepsi.com and summitracing.com have the polly bushings for 1g's pretty much ala carte.

Shocks and Struts: I know i need to keep the car level when launching to keep the front end down and to help the power get to all four tires. I had planned on using AGX adjustables in the rear and leaving my factory struts in the front (ok shape- not blown out). Does this seem ok with the help of a lowering coil spring set up. I have never used the Koni shocks before but i have used the AGX's in the past and i like the simple 8way adjustment. It seems like they are close in price as well but i see AGXs used in the classifieds sometimes.

Springs: I liked what the prokit did for me with my old car (mid to high 1.6 60's), but the laser has had more weight removal at a current 2700 pounds and the prokit will stiffen up the ride but won't cure the high fender gap. I also plan to continue the weight loss with the car up to another 200 pounds over time via the weight loss of factory seats and power seat belts, carbon fiber hood, rear and side bumper impact beams, and some other minor weight trimming. With that in mind, the fender to tire gap will increase but the overall ride height and ground clearance of my suspension will be about the same under the car. I keep seeing that if i want to go more than 1.5" drop that i'll need camber and toe eliminators as well. My main concern is stiffening up the suspension so i can launch better at the track, but i would like to select a spring combo that will also help the appearance of my ride height and the prokit won't really change that much. Is a coil over set up the only way to get the best of both worlds with this kind of excessive tire gap? I may be in the middle of a "brain fart", but if i did have coil overs, and i wanted to lower the car so that the fenders were about 1-1.5" above the tire for a nice stance, would the bottom of the car/undercarriage be sitting right off the ground with my exhaust dragging, or will the coil overs allow me to bing the body back down the chassis with out the bottom of the car dragging frame like a lowered S-10?

Tire alignment aids: I've heard nothing but good stuff in the form of drag racing with the use of rear toe eliminators. It's to my understanding that they give you adjustment of rear toe by replacing the rear lower control arm with them so that you can basically pull the bottom of the rear tires inward so that when you launch you have a flatter tire surface putting the power down. I though that would be camber as toe would be the steering angle of the tire?? I have seen ingals has front camber bolts that you install in your strut to spindle holes to kick the tire in or out. What camber and toe angles do we want for AWD 1G drag racing? What other suspension and or alignment aids are available still besides the rear toe eliminators and the front camber bolt kits? And which ones will make a big difference or are necessary if lowering more than 1.5" drop.

Sorry i filled this post with a ton of questions, but i've decided to do my suspension next over the winter with the goal of low 60' times in mind and some street driving and i'd like to buy and install the suspension i choose once.

 

[Phil1320]

Yeah I know which bushings you're talking about but I don't understand how they could help drag racing and traction.

Factory bushings, especially, WORN, factory RUBBER bushings, cause so many alignment changes in the vehicle that it hampers how well it can launch. Things like tire contact patch come into play in a negative manner with all that movement. The bushings also absorb power that you could be putting to the ground, which would make for a better launch. The excessive movement of the engine/drivetrain, and suspension components increases your chances of breaking something, especially a differential or axle. This list goes on and on. As much as pictures of DSM's squating look killer, it is nowhere near optimal on any front, and all that negative rear and positive front camber results in tire contact patch loss, which = loss of traction. Not having all the bushings replaced with Poly bushings makes dialing in launches, i.e., improving your launches, much much harder. Adjustments made to alignment or shock settings can be negated by sloppy movement of suspension parts caused by excessive play of all these bushings..........basically, you may not feel a suspension adjustment, alignment adjustment, or tire pressure adjustment like you should........

 

[My1GLaser]

Here is what I run and get consistent 1.6x 60 fts with a best of 1.61 to date.

Sumitomo HTR 225/45/16 with 22 psi.
Frt control arm & sway bar bushings, rear sway bar. (I want to do more just haven't yet)
Prothane Motor mounts
AGX & Eibach Prokit. Frt set on 2 rear on 6.
5500 rpm launch with about 18-20 psi leaving the line.
-1* camber frt, -1.5* rear

I am probably going with Konis & Ground Control Springs in the near future to get some better handling in autocross.

Coilover isn't necessary for drag racing IMO.

 

[carfanatic_88]

Factory bushings, especially, WORN, factory RUBBER bushings, cause so many alignment changes in the vehicle that it hampers how well it can launch. Things like tire contact patch come into play in a negative manner with all that movement. The bushings also absorb power that you could be putting to the ground, which would make for a better launch. The excessive movement of the engine/drivetrain, and suspension components increases your chances of breaking something, especially a differential or axle. This list goes on and on. As much as pictures of DSM's squating look killer, it is nowhere near optimal on any front, and all that negative rear and positive front camber results in tire contact patch loss, which = loss of traction. Not having all the bushings replaced with Poly bushings makes dialing in launches, i.e., improving your launches, much much harder. Adjustments made to alignment or shock settings can be negated by sloppy movement of suspension parts caused by excessive play of all these bushings..........basically, you may not feel a suspension adjustment, alignment adjustment, or tire pressure adjustment like you should........

Very well put Phil, I was fighting traction for the better part of this season. I have a full set of AGX's tein 1.4 (i think) lowering springs and polly bushings in the rear subframe and in the front control arms. It makes a difference you can feel, Launches feel soother, you can look at the track, and it defenatly helps with shifting.

 

[jays92tsi]

I have the same problem with too much fender gap.Since I'm currently unemployed(more time than money) I was thinking of cutting a coil off stock springs.I have two parts cars so no loss if it doesn't work.

 

[talondave]

I have the same problem with too much fender gap.Since I'm currently unemployed(more time than money) I was thinking of cutting a coil off stock springs.I have two parts cars so no loss if it doesn't work.

You can do that, but your struts will be blown out in no time!!

 

[jays92tsi]

How can cutting one coil off cause a strut to blow out?I would probably start with a half first.I just want it to sit where it was when it was stock.

 

[Phil1320]

Here is what I run and get consistent 1.6x 60 fts with a best of 1.61 to date.

Sumitomo HTR 225/45/16 with 22 psi.
Frt control arm & sway bar bushings, rear sway bar. (I want to do more just haven't yet)
Prothane Motor mounts
AGX & Eibach Prokit. Frt set on 2 rear on 6.
5500 rpm launch with about 18-20 psi leaving the line.
-1* camber frt, -1.5* rear

I am probably going with Konis & Ground Control Springs in the near future to get some better handling in autocross.

Coilover isn't necessary for drag racing IMO.

Sounds like a nice set-up and car looks killer in avatar

Coilovers are definitely not necessary for drag racing, but they are lighter and are the ultimate in adjustment, most having front upper camber plates furthering adjustability. AGX ProKit worked for me for many years without fail.

Very well put Phil, I was fighting traction for the better part of this season. I have a full set of AGX's tein 1.4 (i think) lowering springs and polly bushings in the rear subframe and in the front control arms. It makes a difference you can feel, Launches feel soother, you can look at the track, and it defenatly helps with shifting.

Thanks! No doubt, you CAN feel the difference. REAR subframe bushings by NOLTEC and rear Toe eliminators are key.......

.....yes, everything is so much smoother and does really help in the shifting dept, agreed

How can cutting one coil off cause a strut to blow out?I would probably start with a half first.I just want it to sit where it was when it was stock.

Coil springs are PROGRESSIVELY WOUND....which means if you cut off a coil, you just lost part of the way that spring is meant to compress. That's why you see the little Corolla's bouncing all over the place going down the highway over slight undulations......instead of progressive compression of the spring, you now have an on and off switch. Cutting coils, increases spring rate, but reduces suspension travel to that which is too little for the strut/shock to handle the constant pouncing, so they fail.

Fender gap you guys are mentioning....this isn't neccessarily going to keep you from launching well, so I assume it's just an aesthetic thing????

If the car is lightened enough, the only way to close the fender gap is coilovers, to do it right anyway. My Eibach Pro 1" lowering springs had the car sitting 1 inch higher than stock with all the weight I had out. The pics you've seen of my talon as of late, are the JIC's the way they came out of the box with no adjustement to ride height at all.

You can do that, but your struts will be blown out in no time!!

True dat.

 

[Gooberlog]

No doubt, you CAN feel the difference. REAR subframe bushings by NOLTEC and rear Toe eliminators are key.

Fender gap you guys are mentioning....this isn't neccessarily going to keep you from launching well, so I assume it's just an aesthetic thing????

If the car is lightened enough, the only way to close the fender gap is coilovers, to do it right anyway. My Eibach Pro 1" lowering springs had the car sitting 1 inch higher than stock with all the weight I had out. The pics you've seen of my talon as of late, are the JIC's the way they came out of the box with no adjustement to ride height at all.

I'll have to grab a set of rear subframe and diff polly bushings as well as my front control arm bushings when i do the ball joints. I'll also finish up replacing the engine mounts.

The fender gap, yes was purely for looks. I know if the suspension is stiff it wont matter much how high the car sits when i launch, but I'm getting tired of the wise cracks about my monster truck laser. I would enjoy having a car that had a nice ride height too. With the car only getting lighter i want to choose a spring or maybe coil over that will help with this.

If the prokit put your car 1" higher than stock with serious weight mods, than maybe the sportlines on my car will put it close to stock. If i were to opt for sportlines or another 2" drop coil spring like megans, would the toe eliminator be enough or would i also need to get front and or rear camber adjustment bolts? Anything else that would be needed? I mean i actually have over 4" of fender gap in the rear and the front aint much better with in about a half inch of the rear.
Thanks everyone for your input!!

* Front Control Arm Bushings (#5.3108)
* Rear Control Arm Bushings (#5.3113)
* Subframe Bushings (#5.4105)
* Front Anti Sway Bar Bushings 20mm (#5.5106)
* Rear Anti Sway Bar Bushings 20mm (#5.5108)
* Tie Rod End Boot Bushings (#9.13101, #9.13101)
Package deal for $145 shipped on ebay
90-94 AWD Eagle Talon Suspension Bushing Kit:eBay Motors (item 300360096497 end time Dec-22-09 08:30:31 PST)

 

[Phil1320]

I'll have to grab a set of rear subframe and diff polly bushings as well as my front control arm bushings when i do the ball joints. I'll also finish up replacing the engine mounts.

The fender gap, yes was purely for looks. I know if the suspension is stiff it wont matter much how high the car sits when i launch, but I'm getting tired of the wise cracks about my monster truck laser. I would enjoy having a car that had a nice ride height too. With the car only getting lighter i want to choose a spring or maybe coil over that will help with this.

If the prokit put your car 1" higher than stock with serious weight mods, than maybe the sportlines on my car will put it close to stock. If i were to opt for sportlines or another 2" drop coil spring like megans, would the toe eliminator be enough or would i also need to get front and or rear camber adjustment bolts? Anything else that would be needed? I mean i actually have over 4" of fender gap in the rear and the front aint much better with in about a half inch of the rear.
Thanks everyone for your input!!

* Front Control Arm Bushings (#5.3108)
* Rear Control Arm Bushings (#5.3113)
* Subframe Bushings (#5.4105)
* Front Anti Sway Bar Bushings 20mm (#5.5106)
* Rear Anti Sway Bar Bushings 20mm (#5.5108)
* Tie Rod End Boot Bushings (#9.13101, #9.13101)
Package deal for $145 shipped on ebay
90-94 AWD Eagle Talon Suspension Bushing Kit:eBay Motors (item 300360096497 end time Dec-22-09 08:30:31 PST)

I hear you on the ride height thing....it sucks how high it sits. Mine sat like that for a long time and I always was jealous of the way other dropped DSM's looked.

The Sportline will obviously bring it a bit lower, but probably not an inch lower. If you don't do coilovers with camber plates, I say you'll need eccentric bolts at the front struts and in the rear you need the Ingalls Adjustable upper arms. I have mine spun to as far positive as possible as you see on my car. Those will be key. I've made no camber adjustments up fron with the camber plates at all, again, as they came out of the box.

Definitely, work on finishing the bushings, once they are done, that's the foundation for anything else you want to do, and results will be easier to realize once the chassis has minimal play.

Definitely finish the motor mounts, If you have the one on the driver side done, and not the one on the tranny, you have some abnormal movement, twisting, so get those done! You could do the Ground control/AGX set up that alot of people do to get a cheaper coilover set up on the car and then you'll have the adjustment you want for sure. It takes a bit of work with sheets of rubber to get the collars to stay on the struts without movement and or noise, but, they do work and alot of people go that route. Todays pricing may put you closer to getting a set of D2 coilovers though, and for 200-300 more or so, I'd buy the real deal........

 

[Gooberlog]

I hear you on the ride height thing....it sucks how high it sits. Mine sat like that for a long time and I always was jealous of the way other dropped DSM's looked.

The Sportline will obviously bring it a bit lower, but probably not an inch lower. If you don't do coilovers with camber plates, I say you'll need eccentric bolts at the front struts and in the rear you need the Ingalls Adjustable upper arms. I have mine spun to as far positive as possible as you see on my car. Those will be key. I've made no camber adjustments up fron with the camber plates at all, again, as they came out of the box.

Definitely, work on finishing the bushings, once they are done, that's the foundation for anything else you want to do, and results will be easier to realize once the chassis has minimal play.

Definitely finish the motor mounts, If you have the one on the driver side done, and not the one on the tranny, you have some abnormal movement, twisting, so get those done! You could do the Ground control/AGX set up that alot of people do to get a cheaper coilover set up on the car and then you'll have the adjustment you want for sure. It takes a bit of work with sheets of rubber to get the collars to stay on the struts without movement and or noise, but, they do work and alot of people go that route. Todays pricing may put you closer to getting a set of D2 coilovers though, and for 200-300 more or so, I'd buy the real deal........

Where can i buy ingals adjustable control arms. I've seen the rear toe eliminators and camber bolt kits around.

When i bought the car it only had a polly bushings on the trans side when he installed the 2100. Since then i have installed the timing belt side mount that he gave me. I have the rear mount in the garage to install but i need to buy the front roll stop mount.

I'm kinda leaning towards a coil spring set up that will give me around a 2" drop to keep the price down. I just know that the pro kit will not bring it low enough for me though as the car is way in the air.

 

[Phil1320]

Where can i buy ingals adjustable control arms. I've seen the rear toe eliminators and camber bolt kits around.

When i bought the car it only had a polly bushings on the trans side when he installed the 2100. Since then i have installed the timing belt side mount that he gave me. I have the rear mount in the garage to install but i need to buy the front roll stop mount.

I'm kinda leaning towards a coil spring set up that will give me around a 2" drop to keep the price down. I just know that the pro kit will not bring it low enough for me though as the car is way in the air.

I'll have to check into that, I got mine at the local DSM shop when my friend used to own it. They are the rear upper arms. You're good on the engine mounts then as you have the front(timing belt side) and the back of the motor covered, the roll stops you can do anytime. I'm trying to remember , there is a lowering spring out there that slams the 1g's pretty good, let me contact a frien of mine.....standy by......


Ok, I thought of it before he could.....it's INTRAX....that spring lowers the MOST on our cars......I remember guys with them and they had such bad negative camber out back because of the drop, I remember guys pulling them off in favor of Eibach or whatever because the drop was TOO low for them, that's the spring you want, if you can find them..........just did a search on ebay, only for 2G I found...they are purple....

Listed as a 1.7" drop for front and rear:

http://www.summitracing.com/search/?keyword=55-1-006&dds=1

This is the cheapest I found and availabiltiy looks good if you're interested.....

 

[Nate Crisman]

I was in the same boat with the ride height vs weight loss when trying to use a standard lowering spring. There really is no better solution than a set of adjustable coilovers.

While Ground Control coilovers do offer adjustable ride height, they do it via moving the lower spring perch. When you lower a car via GC's, you are losing shock travel.

When you adjust ride height on D2' coilovers (and I assume JIC, ksport and the like as well), you don't move the spring perch. right height is adjusted by threading the shock unit into a lower mount.

In this picture you can see the black main body of the shock is threaded on the outside. The lower mounts (purple) are threaded on the inside. You loosen the jam ring on the rear shocks or the two allen keys on the back of the front lower mounts and thread the whole hydraulic shock into the lower mount. That lowers the car without reducing the travel of the hydraulics.

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I was able to find these D2's used for about $500, they are the GVR4 specific coils too, so even more "rare". The cost on a used set of coilovers is going to be very comparable to a set of good standard shocks & lowering springs & camber plates.

The shocks saved 23.5lb compared to AGX/eibach springs with Tien camber plates. significant weight.
They make more room for big tires. (plus bias ply tires move around..best to have ample room)

My GVR4 is something like 350lb lighter than stock and it looked retarted with normal lowering springs. Like 5-6" of fender gap. there was no way I was going to get it looking anything close to good without coilovers.

 

[Gooberlog]

I was in the same boat with the ride height vs weight loss when trying to use a standard lowering spring. There really is no better solution than a set of adjustable coilovers.

While Ground Control coilovers do offer adjustable ride height, they do it via moving the lower spring perch. When you lower a car via GC's, you are losing shock travel.

When you adjust ride height on D2' coilovers (and I assume JIC, ksport and the like as well), you don't move the spring perch. right height is adjusted by threading the shock unit into a lower mount.

In this picture you can see the black main body of the shock is threaded on the outside. The lower mounts (purple) are threaded on the inside. You loosen the jam ring on the rear shocks or the two allen keys on the back of the front lower mounts and thread the whole hydraulic shock into the lower mount. That lowers the car without reducing the travel of the hydraulics.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I was able to find these D2's used for about $500, they are the GVR4 specific coils too, so even more "rare". The cost on a used set of coilovers is going to be very comparable to a set of good standard shocks & lowering springs & camber plates.

The shocks saved 23.5lb compared to AGX/eibach springs with Tien camber plates. significant weight.
They make more room for big tires. (plus bias ply tires move around..best to have ample room)

My GVR4 is something like 350lb lighter than stock and it looked retarted with normal lowering springs. Like 5-6" of fender gap. there was no way I was going to get it looking anything close to good without coilovers.

I have never really looked in to using coil over's until now, so sorry if this is obvious, but is the shock absorber built in to the coil over set up. From that picture above it looks like this coil over set up incorporates the shock/strut assemblies in to the coil over. If this is so, which coil over brands do this. If i didn't have to budget for a set of AGX's that would help with the price of coil overs. If the shocks are integrated in to the coil overs, are they adjustable? Thanks once again guys for all of your feeback, insights and help, as this is an area i don't have much experience in. BTW another 23pounds of weight savings would be nice!

Phil, i had looked at the intrax a few days ago on summit as well. If i drop the car around 2" with coil springs, will the bottom of the car drop that much or just the body of the car. I feel that that would do the fender gap nicely, but my 3" exhaust hangs a little low as it is even though i have plenty of ground clearance else where.

 

[Phil1320]

I have never really looked in to using coil over's until now, so sorry if this is obvious, but is the shock absorber built in to the coil over set up. From that picture above it looks like this coil over set up incorporates the shock/strut assemblies in to the coil over. If this is so, which coil over brands do this. If i didn't have to budget for a set of AGX's that would help with the price of coil overs. If the shocks are integrated in to the coil overs, are they adjustable? Thanks once again guys for all of your feeback, insights and help, as this is an area i don't have much experience in. BTW another 23pounds of weight savings would be nice!

Phil, i had looked at the intrax a few days ago on summit as well. If i drop the car around 2" with coil springs, will the bottom of the car drop that much or just the body of the car. I feel that that would do the fender gap nicely, but my 3" exhaust hangs a little low as it is even though i have plenty of ground clearance else where.

It's all gonna drop buddy, so, yes, your exhaust will be closer to the ground. yes, the "shock"(damper) is built in and they are generally adjustable. If you look at the pic he posted, the bottom most "purple" pieces are what you spin to adjust, the damper actually sits inside the black collar or body of the assembly. I had KSports on the Forester XT and they were super nice, 36 way adjustable, compression and rebound. I'd like a set for the Galant. The ones that Nate's got are super nice too...if you can swing it, a REAL coilover kit would be the best for sure like he says......

 

[1992awdlaser]

I didn't read the whole thing so forgive me if I repeat something that has already been mentioned.

1. Coil overs are the best setup you can get. They are by no means required but they will help, and they are adjustable. I know you said you don't want them because of price, I would look for a used set. I got my ground control coil overs and agx struts for $300 shipped.

2. For the alignment I have two recommendations, one for a pure track car and one for a track/street car.
2A. For a track car that is not concerned with tire wear from driving normal you need to do this. After the suspension is put on get somebody to take a picture or video of you launching(if you end up with coil overs make sure you have the height set where you want it before doing this or you will have to restart). Try to replicate the look of your car launching on the alignment rack. Tell them to lift the front end from the pinch welds so it lets the front suspension travel. Have them use ratchet straps or something of the like on the rear to get it to squat as in the picture. Tell them to do the alignment how the car is sitting. Tell them you want as close to 0 camber as they can get like that. This will maximize traction when launching since you will have a full contact patch. This will wear out the inside of the front tires and outside of the rear tires if you drive it on the street though since the top of the front tires will point in when cruising and the top of the rear tires will point out when cruising.

2B. Again make sure you have the height set where you want it if you go with coil overs. Get them to set the camber within factory specs but tell them you want the front towards the limit of the negative spec and the rear toward the limit of the positive specs. This will allow better traction than if they do the alignment normal (set camber in the middle of the specs). This will also increase tire wear as mentioned before but nowhere near as bad as the drag alignment. The tire wear like this you can actually live with.

3. Leave the rear sway bar and take off the front. The rear does actually help with traction when the rear squats. When it squats the sway bar helps put downward pressure on the suspension which helps the tires stick. Taking off the front bar will give you more weight transfer, which can be a good thing with these cars as long as you don't have too much (which you won't with a aftermarket suspension).


Any more questions just ask.

 

[talondave]

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I would love to have a set of these Guess i will work on getting some after my motor is done!!

 

[Gooberlog]

1. Coil overs are the best setup you can get. They are by no means required but they will help, and they are adjustable. I know you said you don't want them because of price, I would look for a used set. I got my ground control coil overs and agx struts for $300 shipped.

2B. Again make sure you have the height set where you want it if you go with coil overs. Get them to set the camber within factory specs but tell them you want the front towards the limit of the negative spec and the rear toward the limit of the positive specs. This will allow better traction than if they do the alignment normal (set camber in the middle of the specs). This will also increase tire wear as mentioned before but nowhere near as bad as the drag alignment. The tire wear like this you can actually live with.


Any more questions just ask.

Thanks for the info on the coil overs. All of this stuff really is helping me work on making a decision guys, thanks!
I see in this post you said that the Ground Control coil overs do not have the absorbers integrated in to the coil over assemblies as you had to get AGX also. Is this just because Ground Controls are more of an entry level coil over?
Thank you very much for the advice on setting up the car and alignment recommendations for street/strip vs. pure race car. I was looking for this info. I'll definitely keep my eye out for a set of used coil overs over the winter.

It's all gonna drop buddy, so, yes, your exhaust will be closer to the ground. yes, the "shock"(damper) is built in and they are generally adjustable. If you look at the pic he posted, the bottom most "purple" pieces are what you spin to adjust, the damper actually sits inside the black collar or body of the assembly. I had KSports on the Forester XT and they were super nice, 36 way adjustable, compression and rebound. I'd like a set for the Galant. The ones that Nate's got are super nice too...if you can swing it, a REAL coilover kit would be the best for sure like he says......

That's what i thought based on the picture, but as mentioned above it appears that the Ground Controls do not have absorbers integrated in to the coil overs.
36way adjustable is getting a little crazy. Some rebound and dampening wouldn't be bad though.

 

[Phil1320]

Thanks for the info on the coil overs. All of this stuff really is helping me work on making a decision guys, thanks!
I see in this post you said that the Ground Control coil overs do not have the absorbers integrated in to the coil over assemblies as you had to get AGX also. Is this just because Ground Controls are more of an entry level coil over?
Thank you very much for the advice on setting up the car and alignment recommendations for street/strip vs. pure race car. I was looking for this info. I'll definitely keep my eye out for a set of used coil overs over the winter.


That's what i thought based on the picture, but as mentioned above it appears that the Ground Controls do not have absorbers integrated in to the coil overs.
36way adjustable is getting a little crazy. Some rebound and dampening wouldn't be bad though.

We may be confusing you here....ok, Ground Control is not entry level by any means.....I have friends that run them on the roadcourse. It's a more cost effective way to get into a set of coilovers when you already have the struts on your car. When you get them, you are getting a threaded collar, springs, upper perches, and some hardware. Then you will buy the AGX's and slide the threaded collar over the strut/shock to CREATE a full coilover assembly.....get it?