Getting head resurfaced, what to watch out for?

[4gfun]

I am going to have my cylinder head resurfaced and the folks in my area are dumb as rocks.

I have been searching the site for some time and I know that belt sanding is a big no-no, but there is one other sanding type that is a big no no...I think it starts with a "b" but I am not quite sure.

Also, I was planning on cleaning up the lifters myself and as such I have the cams, roller rockers, and lifters removed.

Would you just give them the head with the lifters, rockers, and cams or would you just give them the head?

What assurance do I have that they'd be smart enough to even put things back in their original positions? If I sound scared, I am....better safe than sorry.

I have never pulled a cylinder head so most of this is new to me. I have read most of BogusSVO's guides on checking all of the points to see how true the head is, and the largest feeler gauge that will fit at any of the suggested points is .003, but I'd still like to send it in.

I bought the car with a bad head gasket, so I am not going to take any chances.

Thanks

 

[92AWDHX40]

Well go with a trusted vendor here if your unsure most machine shops should know what they are doing.

 

[4gfun]

Well go with a trusted vendor here if your unsure most machine shops should know what they are doing.

Well I'd like to go to the machine shop and see if they know what they are doing before jumping to any conclusions. I have just had some bad experiences around here, but if I walk into the situation somewhat informed I stand a better chance of making an informed decision.

I'd rather try to deal with this locally if possible due to the weight of the cylinder head and having to box it up.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Ok I see, but if you had bad luck im sorry, no problems here but we have a few shops and they do good work.

 

[4gfun]

Ok I see, but if you had bad luck im sorry, no problems here but we have a few shops and they do good work.

Not your fault, just happens sometimes.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Again I would find a vendor near you from tuners pack it up and have it done right and don't look back.

 

[estoyaqui30]

Well I'd like to go to the machine shop and see if they know what they are doing before jumping to any conclusions. I have just had some bad experiences around here, but if I walk into the situation somewhat informed I stand a better chance of making an informed decision.

I'd rather try to deal with this locally if possible due to the weight of the cylinder head and having to box it up.

The last time I shipped a head, I wrapped it in bubble wrap and got a cheap plastic "husky" tool box from Home Depot that was a perfect size. I think it was 20 dollars and shipped it in that. I dealt with Darren King, FFDconnection at it was great. You could also check out "BogusSVO" on this site. That is what he does and he's in Florida. Whoever you use, just make sure they are reputable. Good luck

 

[BogusSVO]

Ask the shop what equipment they use to surface.

You would prefer to hear a CBN/PCD milling machine.

Next would be a wet segment stone grinder, or a rotary broach

BUT be careful of rotary broaches, not all are set up for alum and can cut or more like rip the aluminium from the head.

I have both a CBN/PCD milling machine and a broach. The broach was made in 1964 is still good for cutting cast iron, but nothing close to good for aluminum.

Now if they give you a name and model number, just google an image of it.

Like a Van Norman 570 or blockmaster 85 or a Rottler

Next is to ask is how they set up.

If they bolt to a roll over fixture, it will be leveled to the surface you have now.

If they lock down on the valve cover rail, the surface will be cut parallel to the valve cover rail.


Next would be if they will remove the intake valves, so they will not get cut when the head is surfaced.

They have to go back on the same seat they came off.

If all you are doing is a surface, no need to send the head with the cam caps, cams, HLAs and followers, keep all that at home.

 

[4gfun]

Ask the shop what equipment they use to surface.

You would prefer to hear a CBN/PCD milling machine.

Next would be a wet segment stone grinder, or a rotary broach

BUT be careful of rotary broaches, not all are set up for alum and can cut or more like rip the aluminium from the head.

I have both a CBN/PCD milling machine and a broach. The broach was made in 1964 is still good for cutting cast iron, but nothing close to good for aluminum.

Now if they give you a name and model number, just google an image of it.

Like a Van Norman 570 or blockmaster 85 or a Rottler

Next is to ask is how they set up.

If they bolt to a roll over fixture, it will be leveled to the surface you have now.

If they lock down on the valve cover rail, the surface will be cut parallel to the valve cover rail.


Next would be if they will remove the intake valves, so they will not get cut when the head is surfaced.

They have to go back on the same seat they came off.

If all you are doing is a surface, no need to send the head with the cam caps, cams, HLAs and followers, keep all that at home.

Thanks for chiming in....they responded with a "belt grind" WTF

 

[BogusSVO]

Find another shop.

Belt grind, belt surface, belt anything is not good.

About the only thing a belt surfacer is good for is surfacing exhaust manifolds.