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Getting Clutch Replaced, Do I Need To Replace The Axle?

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96gstdsm

15+ Year Contributor
808
2
Aug 7, 2006
monroe, New York
I am having my clutch and flywheel as well as a few other parts replaced this or next weekend. I am taking it to a place to get that done. Still deciding where right now. I called one place today who said it would be around 450 for everything including fluids and all (I have all parts already) He also said though that these cars have problems with their axles and would definately need to be replaced. Said they always seize over 100k miles. Is this true? My car has 142k. So if it hasnt been replaced yet would it prety much have to be? I dont think he is going to charge me labor to replace that and i would buy it myself so dont think he would be ripping me off. The place is broadway performance in northern nj. How much approx. are new axles?

And also different subject. Is the tob that comes with the ACT 2100 a good one? That is the whole reason i am doing the clutch replacement in the beginning. It's either that or the input shaft bearing. (how hard is it to replace that when everything is off already?) Expensive?

Ok any help would be great.

thanks----ryan.
 
Well if the axle isn't making any noise or doing anything strange I wouldn't suppose it has to be replaced. When making tight turns (left or right) do you hear any ticking? Inspect the boots when the axles are off, if they are excessively worn/cracked/torn you should just replace the axles but otherwise if they are in good shape i don't see a need to replace them.
 
Ok, well thats good, havent driven my car for more than 5 days when i got it and has been sitting for over a month now so hope it is fine. How much would it be to replace the axle approximately? Any ideas?
 
Your story sounds just like mine...I got my gsx about 2 months ago..and the first day I was out driving it i had a complete clutch failure...anyway I wont get into specifics...the car has 114k and the pass side axle was siezed into the hub, so i decided to have both axles rebuilt since the 2 sets i ordered came wrong, and i was told the mitsu dealer wanted nothing to do with finding me the axles as they didnt want to have to keep restocking them since they were difficult to get..anyway..thats what they told me.. I payed i think 80 and 100 for the axles to be rebuilt..and they look brand new....If i were you id have them do the axles since part of the clutch job is removing them so they really shouldnt charge you extra labor for them..at least thats how i think of it..
 
there is not really any need of rebuilding your axles unless something is wrong with them! Ive done many transmissions and never replaced axels just for peace of mind. If the boots look worn, then yes go ahead and get new CV boots put on them, but other than that just take them out and put them back in!
 
I like www.raxles.com simply because they are not rebuilds they are new joints. But expect to pay alot more for them. I've heard napa's axles are pretty good though, they are slightly thicker then the stockers, of course they may not be made out of the same material so that doesn't mean they are stronger. But as we've said if they work fine and the boots aren't tore or wore out, no reason to fix what isn't broke. Not to mention if they go bad down the road it is very easy to replace them, the only trans part you'll have to worry about is replacing the fluid.
 
I'll agree, if the axles aren't giving you problems or the boot isn't torn, don't worry about them. As stated, if you have a problem down the road, they're easy enough to replace. Nothing near as labor intensive as a clutch job.

What you want to do/check on a clutch job:

Clutch disc, pressure plate and throw-out/release bearing (duh).
Check condition of the clip that holds the TOB, replace as needed.
Flywheel if worn or you just want another one (lighter/whatever).
I replace the bolts holding the flywheel, your choice (if using an aluminum flywheel...longer bolts may be required).
Do a rear crank seal.
Do replace the axle seals in the tranny.
Check the release fork and pivot ball, replace as needed.
Check the master and slave cylinders, replace as needed.
Bleed the system.
Check "free-play" (clutch adjustment) in the clutch pedal: http://www.roadraceengineering.com/clutchandflywheeltech.htm toward the bottom.
 
FORMONTOYA said:
I'll agree, if the axles aren't giving you problems or the boot isn't torn, don't worry about them. As stated, if you have a problem down the road, they're easy enough to replace. Nothing near as labor intensive as a clutch job.

What you want to do/check on a clutch job:

Clutch disc, pressure plate and throw-out/release bearing (duh).
Check condition of the clip that holds the TOB, replace as needed.
Flywheel if worn or you just want another one (lighter/whatever).
I replace the bolts holding the flywheel, your choice (if using an aluminum flywheel...longer bolts may be required).
Do a rear crank seal.
Do replace the axle seals in the tranny.
Check the release fork and pivot ball, replace as needed.
Check the master and slave cylinders, replace as needed.
Bleed the system.
Check "free-play" (clutch adjustment) in the clutch pedal: http://www.roadraceengineering.com/clutchandflywheeltech.htm toward the bottom.


Ok thanks. Yeah i already bought an Act 2100 clutch, ACT Streetlight flywheel, rear main seal, axle seals, ss clutchline for now. So gonna install all of that. Are the clutch cylinders much harder to replace when the tranny is on still? And that Act set up i dont need new longer bolts do i? Think i asked that arelady in another post though.
 
96gstdsm said:
Ok thanks. Yeah i already bought an Act 2100 clutch, ACT Streetlight flywheel, rear main seal, axle seals, ss clutchline for now. So gonna install all of that. Are the clutch cylinders much harder to replace when the tranny is on still? And that Act set up i dont need new longer bolts do i? Think i asked that arelady in another post though.
Check the flywheel step just to be safe. You don't need longer bolts for the ACT flywheel.
 
Changing the master clutch cylinder is the same no matter if the tranny is in or not as it's on the fire wall - driver side - next to the brake reservoir.

I remove the slave clutch cylinder before I remove the tranny, and re-install it after the tranny is back in place to avoid possible damage.

Although you DO NOT need longer bolts for the ACT flywheel, I replace the flywheel bolts with every flywheel.......just piece of mind, your call. However, they are NOT just regular bolts you would buy at the hardware store, they're special "flange head" hardened bolts that are more than likely a dealer item if you're looking for them in a hurry.
 
FORMONTOYA said:
Changing the master clutch cylinder is the same no matter if the tranny is in or not as it's on the fire wall - driver side - next to the brake reservoir.

I remove the slave clutch cylinder before I remove the tranny, and re-install it after the tranny is back in place to avoid possible damage.

Although you DO NOT need longer bolts for the ACT flywheel, I replace the flywheel bolts with every flywheel.......just piece of mind, your call. However, they are NOT just regular bolts you would buy at the hardware store, they're special "flange head" hardened bolts that are more than likely a dealer item if you're looking for them in a hurry.


Thanks. Do you know where i would find those bolts? Do they have them at an online performance store? Would i need to look for ACT flywheel bolts? Are there multiple ones i could get that vary? Figure i might as well get new bolts while doing the install! Could never hurt. Dont know where to find the correct ones though.
 
Good call FORMONTOYA! Replace those flywheel bolts. If you can't get them from a local Mitsu dealer then Slowboy sells them, they are OEM so its the same thing. Make sure you use Red loctite! Actually just follow my tech article if you do it yourself.

Bolts scroll down you'll see 6 or 7 bolt flywheel bolts
http://www.slowboyracing.com/shop.php?sid=&cat=1050

Tech article
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=242181

Also check out the VFAQ's article
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/clutch-1G.html
 
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