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Fuse box relocation questions

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Sorry about the misspell of Kester.

I bought all my stuff at a local Electronics shop but Digikey is AWESOME! I've used them for everything related to my LED stuff.

What connectors are you having trouble with? There is usually a release catch on them somewhere.
 
Thank you turbosax i think i might get that. And blurred talon it is in the last couple connectors heres a pic of the spare harness connectors. Are they behind the fuse box on driver side? Can't find them.

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Ok cool i will try tomarrow again. I seen the big one not the little one though. I see the little one from top but not bottom were i see big one. I unbolted the fuse box also. I just have those two connectors and its out. I also took a couple more pics while i was outside trying to find the two on back of the fuse box.

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I got the harness out this morning.:hellyeah:. It took me about 2 minutes to do the last two connectors that are on back of the fuse box on the inside. I couldn't see the white wire from under the dash but i could feel it. And that was it UN-done.

Now i am trying to decide were to start now. I don't know if i should start undoing the loom on it or what to do now. Any suggestions? :thumb:
 
Does anyone know what this connector is called?

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Buy a soldering iron and learn how to use it. Butt connectors have no place in a job like this.

Not entirley true, use NON-insolated butt connectors (pure metal, has no plastic coating), crimp, crimp again, use flux paste, fill connector with solder, put heat shrink over freshly made crimped solder connection, shrink down the tubing with a mini torch:thumb:
 
Thanks for the link snowborder i was looking for it i have looked once at it but didn't bookmark it on the computer.

And i have a whole extra harness to use for wire.

Thanks snowborder i didn't have that saved on my computer bookmarks. I see its a horn. I dint have a horn on that side but i think i will keep it. Will i need this connector? I haven't ever found a horn for this side wish i can one day.

And i can crimp them but i have a whole extra harness to use for this build.
 
Ive done that too curse, on some wiring areas of my dsms, and that has worked well too.

ya man, I always do the "crimp & solder" method vs's just solder only or crimp only. The non insulated connector allows for a trust worthy strong connection that your not ever gonna have to worry about, the filled with flux and solder insures that its a full-blown wire to wire connection, then of course heat shrinked over for obvious reasons.

Ever seen a plumber braze his connections? He will quickly grab his water soaked t-shirt rag and imeidetly cool the fresh made connection, I do this to on my crimped-solder connections but instead of having the t-shirt rag wet with water, I have the t-shirt rag wet with %100 pure rubbing alcohol. This insures a contamination free cooling. Sounds like a lot of work to go through but really its not at all.

When I rigged off-shore and jet-boats for about 6years at a boat shop this is how we would make the custom bildge harnesses (must survive in a salt water atmosphere for years upon years) The crimp AND solder method is my perfered choice to do, but thats just me. To each his own as they say:cool:
 
I am going to have to try that just on some wires i have to practice on. I have been doing some searching on soldering irons and I haven't made up my mind. I don't want to get one that is a cheap one though. I have looked on the links posted just need help deciding.

I just have a POS soldering iron. Its time to get a good one. If i can get some help on this upgrade.
 
The only time I use a solder tip or a solder iron is on delicate things, very sensitive areas. Other wise I just use a mini torch. Go to any place that sells toolls and they'll have a minit orch set for sale. It runs on buetane lighter fluid. Will include screw on tips and adapters and a buncha jive (again, I HARDLY ever use the tips). That's it man. That's all you need is a nice mini torch. Buy some flux paste (weired grease lookin stuff you lightly spread on befor doin the solder magic) and nice name brand solder. The solder can be purchased in differant gauge of thickness, get thin kind. The flux paste helps the solder do its thing. Buy NON insulated but connects, buy 3/16 heak shrink tubing. Have NICE crimpers not lil flimsy pos crimpers. I use KLEIN TOOLS wire crimper. You'll notice a "split" in the non insulated connectors you buy, use the pointy sharp portion of the crimper there on that "split" in the connector, crimp the wire like that, now see the shape of how the connector now looks all pinched around the wire? Yes, this is perfect, this is where you rub on the flux paste now use your mini torch and pour the fire to it with some solder and yoi'll of made a connection that'll last longer than most maridges
 
Got the second part of the harness out today. It was easy. I have everything i need almost. Also found out why i don't have.no E-PROM ECU. It is because mine in my car was replaced on 9-11-01. My eclipse is a early 95 so from factory i had E-PROM. I took a picture of the harness and ECU to show what i had for the day.

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Ok im almost done with labeling my connectors. Then going to start on de-pining the connecters i am not going to use. I still have to un-tape it and un-loom it then do the connecters. I am just wanting to know how many wires i have to extend. Any one know? I am mounting my box like turbosax.
 
Most of the extending was done to my fuse box harness, not the ecu harness. I extended every single wire with my fuse box being moved inside the car. Both sides end up being too short to reach the head lights/fans.

The ecu harness is more likely to be shortened since factory routing sucks. Again, just about all of the wires can be shortened if you choose to. You could also just leave the extra alone, and hide it inside the cabin somewhere.

I ended up extending ground wires from the ecu harness to ground everything inside, rather than on the firewall.

+1 on butt connectors first, then solder. Time consuming, but well worth it.
 
Here is when you need a manual, download the service manual from the forum and you should be ok.

Im doing a quick disconnect harness and I haven't label any of the wires, buying the 3 books from Mitsu is the best I have done.

I got the 3 from Mitsu. I have labeled everything as well. I am just wanting to know how to measure for the relocation? I dont want to cut to short. How can i make sure i measure right.
 
Take what you have and mock it up inside the engine bay, and guess how long temporarily twist the wires together, while you figure out where you want the connectors to it, its no science but more of trial and error but its your custom setup, not like Hondas where they all look alike when they do wire tucks, we have old cars that I think the engineers did a crappy job of the bay. LOL
 
Yea i want mine to be clean. I just am worried bout cutting wires and making them to short. I want to make sure i do all the cutting right? Any help here

So mount my fuse box were it is going. Then go put connecors in there places as moch up. Correct
 
IMO, a good solder connection is much better then those damn butt crimps, I'm sorry I just hate those things.

Get a Weller soldering iron, some solder flux (Kester) and good lead solder (Kester again). If I get a chance today I'll make a how to solder video.

I laid my harnesses out in my interior and engine bay and cut everything so I knew I had enough length. Make sure to leave some slack on the wires for engine movement. Even if you have poly mounts the motor is going to move a bit.
Also I'd suggest a bit of drip loop on the wire where it passes into the cabin. This will keep water from going into the interior.
 
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