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Fuse box relocation questions

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I did a slight fuse box tuck last year. A battery relocation is needed for what i did, as the box ends up in the battery's stock location.

So all you need to do it pull the harness into the engine bay a little more. By the alternator, theres a white plastic 'guide' that holds the harness to the frame. unbolt that piece and open it up. simply slide the harness towards the engine bay until the length that was in the plastic guide is in the bay. That will give you about 8 inches or so more to work with.

Then fab up a few little brackets to hold the box and bolt them to the stock battery trey bolt holes, and ta da!

You can see it under where my catch can is, pretty sneaky! looks much better than that damn stock location..

Holy crap! Thank you! I have been searching for hours on "moving the fuse box" that doesnt involve a complete rewire. I just ripped out all my battery stuff and finished the emissions delete that was started how ever many owners ago, since they left all that crap in. I want my battery on the frame with the box on top, then a dual can setup where the fuse box was.

Not really a super clean up, but consolidating for a little more room.

btw op, things are looking good. At the start of the thread it didnt seem like you were all in, but you are making good progress :thumb:
 
Thanks. I an deleating sensors i will not be using now i am taking my time doing it so it will be just right. I am going to buy a soldering iron in a few days. I know the one i will be getting.
 
35W Weller is perfect for basic wire soldering.

I've got a WESD51 Digital soldering station I use in the work shop. It's the cat's ass!
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For working on automotive one of the butane soldering irons can be convenient if you want to work under the hood/dash without having that cord all over the place. But I definitely prefer the standard ones like the Weller above for working on the bench.
 
I want to look at this one on stores. I haven't found it yet. Were did you get this one at? Might just get it online.
 
I have a connector i deleated i can't remember the namr of after i pulled tag off to make new one. Can i have some help on this one. Thanks
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Yea i had some trouble on pulling wires from connectors. I will need to put new connectors on the end of the wires i messed up.
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I also need a MAF sensor mine is broke. I also need a power transistor connector. I have looked all over this week for these. Guess not in right spots.
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Yea i need the MAF sensor that is broke and i need the power transistor. I might have to go to a junk yard. Let me know if you do have one or both. I also had some old wire termanals when i was de-pining so i need to ffind out were i can get wire termanals for MAF.
 
I have been making some good progress. I found a weller soldering iron in my big garage. It works great. I soldered all the opens i had i wire and put some good electrical tape. I got to still order all my braided sleeving. I still have to save up more and send my ECU off to ecmlink. I am not sure if i want to get V3 full or V3 lite. I also have been reading on speed density. I am kind confused on the speed density on how it works and everything. So if i can get some help on speed density that would be great. :thumb:. I also am going to be finishing my trunk for my battery relocation this weekend i hope if everything goes as planned.
 
I think more towards spring time when it starts to heat up I'm going to put my fuse box in the glove box and delete all unused wires and switch to SD, that's my goal at least. LOL
 
Thanks for the link and yea i am going to use heat shrink better. I did use heat srink on wires i soldered together with two wires but the one with three wires i didn't want to cut it. Would i be ok
 
Have been working on harness and rouging wires how i want them. I have been soldering and heat shrinking all connections. I have mad my decision on the braided sleeving im going to use. I still need to buy some i just got samples.

I got some questions on the harness Black and Brown connectors. Brown pin 52. Black is fuel pump test connector. What is the best way to eliminate the connectors and even the wire?

Also i need to find out were i can get the grommet that comes out of fire wall mine was tore up and had holes? Thanks.:thumb:
 
Ok i have made lots of progress. Just need some help on the power transistor. I need just a picture of the wires that go in the back of the power transistor. I need to see the color of the wires going in and make them out.

I got took pictures and everything but I dont have the pictures anymore. I also ordered F6 sleeving it will be here this week. Any help on pictures.
 
I got my F6 wire loom in and my hot knife to cut it with. I have got my injectors all done today. I also need to figure out were need to put the disconnect for fuse box. I also need to do a couple other things on it but i am almost done with the ECU harness. :thumb:. Thanks pictures coming soon phone is jacked up.

Need some help i bought a Cam Angle Sensor harness from RRE. I am doing my wire tuck and wanted to deleate the plugs and.just wire the CAS to harness and delete the cam and crank sensor it plugs into

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Here is a picture of the plugs I'm talking about.
 
Just disconnect them and see which wire goes where, and once you find that out, then cut the wires and solder them together, do one at a time, you will end up having one wire left, cut the wire or remove it, it's not need it.

Edit, you will end up with 2 wires not hooking up to anything, one is ground and the other is power, just cut then and shrink them, they are not need it.
 
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