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From Hero to Zhiro (1999 Sixbolt_16g)

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Your screen shot and the log contents are completely different. The log shows a global fuel change and a different SD map. What are you up to here?
View attachment 765750

The log is the result of the map from post #124 that I sent you last night.

I loaded that map, and went for another cruise. The map that I just posted is going to be the new map that I will load for the next cruise.
 
Last known good log:

Screenshot 2025-05-25 at 1.55.25 PM.png
 

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Here is what I would do next... There is a weird bump in the VE curve at this boost level at 3500-4000rpm. This will smooth out the bump, add fuel to the lean bump, and tweak a bit of the off boost area.

View attachment 765758

New log. I see how these a/f values are becoming more intertwined with every pass.

Screen Shot 2025-05-26 at 11.33.09 AM.png
 

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You mean the jump to 89.5 on the table @ 3000?

Updated table:View attachment 766056

New log:
Yeah - the 82.5 at 2500 and 89.5 at 3000. Its where you would be cruising part throttle. That makes me wonder if you need a little more fuel via deadtime adjustment. Off boost - cruising.

BTW - The pressure scale on the left is absolute PSI. 0=Vacuum, and 14.7psi is 1 atmosphere of pressure WOT no boost.

That last adjustment looks good. You are ready to try for Min boost, or Max boost.
 
Yeah - the 82.5 at 2500 and 89.5 at 3000. Its where you would be cruising part throttle. That makes me wonder if you need a little more fuel via deadtime adjustment. Off boost - cruising.
Ive only messed with deadtime when it comes to idle, how does that work for targeting cruising rpms specifically so that it doesnt change idle?
BTW - The pressure scale on the left is absolute PSI. 0=Vacuum, and 14.7psi is 1 atmosphere of pressure WOT no boost.
This is one thing that Ive been trying to wrap my head around since it came up a while ago when you talked about moving the 100 column that we had to a different rpm column. I wasnt sure how you determined that 1. It needed to be moved in the first place and 2. where to move it to. I know that 100 should be the limit on the VE table, but if its over 100, does that mean that there is more air than fuel and thats why global fuel needed to be adjusted?

That last adjustment looks good. You are ready to try for Min boost, or Max boost.
So this would be increasing the boost and the end goal is that we're good as long as there isnt any knock?
 
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Ive only messed with deadtime when it comes to idle, how does that work for targeting cruising specifically so that it doesnt change idle?
Dead time for idle and cruse are basically the same.
Dead time affects the low end of the airflow Closed Loop operation (ecu automatically corrects based on o2 to achieve 14.7 AFR)
This is one thing that Ive been trying to wrap my head around since it came up a while ago when you talked about moving the 100 column that we had to a different rpm column. I wasnt sure how you determined that 1. It needed to be moved in the first place and 2. where to move it to. I know that 100 should be the limit on the VE table, but if its over 100, does that mean that there is more air than fuel and thats why global fuel needed to be adjusted?
The general guide: “Somewhere” on the VE table should be a “peak” efficiency - 100%, meaning the most airflow is achieved per revolution, so the most fuel per revolution is needed. At higher and lower boost at higher and lower RPM, the efficiency is less than 100, so less fuel is needed. Finding the peak is simply finding the cells in the table where you need the highest VE value in order to reach your AFR target
So this would be increasing the boost and we're good as long as there isnt any knock?
You can run as much boost as you dare - As long as you don't have knock, and your intake temps are reasonable.
 
Dead time for idle and cruse are basically the same.
Dead time affects the low end of the airflow Closed Loop operation (ecu automatically corrects based on o2 to achieve 14.7 AFR)
But if my idle combined fuel trim is hovering around 0, how would i be able to target that particular area without becoming too rich on idle or is it okay to be slightly rich on idle?

The general guide: “Somewhere” on the VE table should be a “peak” efficiency - 100%, meaning the most airflow is achieved per revolution, so the most fuel per revolution is needed. At higher and lower boost at higher and lower RPM, the efficiency is less than 100, so less fuel is needed. Finding the peak is simply finding the cells in the table where you need the highest VE value in order to reach your AFR target
Got it

You can run as much boost as you dare - As long as you don't have knock, and your intake temps are reasonable.
Whats considered the limit of reasonable intake temps?
 
Dead time for idle and cruse are basically the same.
Dead time affects the low end of the airflow Closed Loop operation (ecu automatically corrects based on o2 to achieve 14.7 AFR)

The general guide: “Somewhere” on the VE table should be a “peak” efficiency - 100%, meaning the most airflow is achieved per revolution, so the most fuel per revolution is needed. At higher and lower boost at higher and lower RPM, the efficiency is less than 100, so less fuel is needed. Finding the peak is simply finding the cells in the table where you need the highest VE value in order to reach your AFR target

You can run as much boost as you dare - As long as you don't have knock, and your intake temps are reasonable.
I think im going to call it here for a minute.. I have to address a leaky lower coolant hose that wont stop no matter how much Ive tighted this clamp and the last run kinda scared me cause this rear end sounds like death coming for me in the form of obnoxious clunking. 😄 Im going to have to hole saw these rear upper bushing out and see what else is back there making noise if anything. Ran at 23 psi on this one.
 

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“But if my idle combined fuel trim is hovering around 0, how would i be able to target that particular area without becoming too rich on idle or is it okay to be slightly rich on idle?”

yes - this is why there are multiple fuel trim levels. its not perfect. You can adjust the global dead time for any point in the closed loop range you want, and the instant compensation will +- the trims automatically. Basically , you can keep tweaking the global dead time in a particular direction, reset fuel trims, collect new data, and see how the auto adjust impacts the VE map. At the end of the day, you would like to see smooth transitions and no hot spots in the closed loop area. If do get a hot spot like this, try adding fuel with global dead time, to knock down the hot spot, and see how it affects the other area of the VE map.
 
Its very odd to see the VE map trying to add fuel in this area. Adjust your global deadtime until your Combined FT is at -5%t o -10%. A Negative trim means its removing fuel (making it leaner to hit 14.7 target). The automatic Combined FT adjust should see this negative trim value and subtract fuel in the VE map, in an attempt to zero out the trim.
 
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Yesterday was not a good day. It started off with the usual early morning cruise with the wife and ended up here. Altho its a nice photo, our reason for being here is not so nice. About 10 miles before, I was following an SUV into a turn lane. People around here dont really care much about their vehicles unless they really love cars, so much so that they dont go out of their way to avoid potholes. I hit a really deep one with my passenger side wheel because the Suburban squeezed into my lane at the last second, cutting me off and preventing me from seeing it.. After I turned the corner I sped up and let go of the wheel to make sure everything was still good. Still drove straight, so we continued on.

About 10 miles down the road, at about 45 mph, there was a loud banging noise from the passenger site and the car was pulling hard to the right. I just let it go in that direction off the main road and into a drive for an expensive neighborhood. I tried to move the car forward and off to the side as I was currently sitting in the middle of the drive blocking anyone that would come along to get in and out of the neighborhood. Got out to see what the issue was and about 5 minutes of looking around and not finding anything, i grabbed my jack out of the trunk and still didnt find anything unusual at first glance. It wasnt until I tried to spin the wheel, that I finally realized what happened.

Turns out that hitting that pothole either caused the top caliper bracket bolt to completely sheared off or it had backed itself out and finally gave way. Either way it was complete gone causing the caliper to tilt forward, catch one of the spokes and complete seize the wheel. I was able to jam a small branch from a nearby tree into the hole for the dust shield and bracket to prevent it from tilting forward, then move the car off to the side.

1749394971989.png


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Luckily the damage doesnt seem extensive at the moment (but really angry since ive gone out of my way to keep these chromies in good condition all these years), but I still need to get another bolt before I can drive the car and see how it drives. I know im going to have to get this wheel rebalanced because it looks like the caliper completely ripped off all the counter weights in the inner wheel. Im just glad the caliper didnt come off in a way that it wouldve started tugging/rip off the brake line.

20250607_113809.jpg


Big thanks to my wife for calling around to 3 different tow businesses (the first 2 wouldnt tow it because it was too low). Not sure how this couldve happened tho. When I put the new calipers on months ago, I had a check list that had all the brake and suspension piece that I installed, along with their torque values because Im nowhere near a mechanic and knew i had to be extra careful. Verified it at least 3 times before I finally took it for a drive. Additionally, I thought i wouldve seen that bolt loose when i had the wheels off last week and was under the car to look at the front sway bar links. Just glad it didnt happen when I was on the expressway or god forbid when I was doing the WOT tuning over the last few weeks. Now im paranoid and have to go back and check/retorque everything. I checked both sides yesterday and the other caliper bolts are still tight.

1749394791799.png
 
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Its very odd to see the VE map trying to add fuel in this area. Adjust your global deadtime until your Combined FT is at -5%t o -10%. A Negative trim means its removing fuel (making it leaner to hit 14.7 target). The automatic Combined FT adjust should see this negative trim value and subtract fuel in the VE map, in an attempt to zero out the trim.

Before the above happened, I was logging the fuel trims at -5 to -10. Not sure if there was an expectation of a WOT run since we're only concerned about that one cell, so I didnt do one. But when I run the SD Combined tool, its trying to put that 89.5 cell at 83. Is that the only value we're concerned about it adjusting?

Screen Shot 2025-06-08 at 10.49.17 AM.png


Screen Shot 2025-06-08 at 10.49.54 AM.png
 

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Before the above happened, I was logging the fuel trims at -5 to -10. Not sure if there was an expectation of a WOT run since we're only concerned about that one cell, so I didnt do one. But when I run the SD Combined tool, its trying to put that 89.5 cell at 83. Is that the only value we're concerned about it adjusting?

View attachment 766919

View attachment 766920
Sorry about the pothole damage. I hope you can resolve that.

Regards the new Automatic adjustments - good! you got the idea right. At least it is behaving in a logical way. The 83 cell is curious, but it and the surrounding cells are better. You can leave your dead times here for now.
 
Sorry about the pothole damage. I hope you can resolve that.

Regards the new Automatic adjustments - good! you got the idea right. At least it is behaving in a logical way. The 83 cell is curious, but it and the surrounding cells are better. You can leave your dead times here for now.
This seems like a vacuum leak
 
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