From 16g to FP Green

[AWDGreenTeam]

Hey guys im looking to go green (as soon as I find a good deal) and had a few questions:

Right now I have a hard Intercooler pipe connected directly to the compressor outlet of my B16G. How would I go about modifing this to connect up to the green? Anyone done this before?

I dont really want to spend the extra dough on an external gate if I dont have to... is going internally gated a big problem with a green as far as boost creep and boost control is concerned?

Will my crushed BOV be able to vent enough?

What do you recomend for cam selection: fp1x, fp2, fp2x, HKS 264, HKS 272, comp, web... others?

What about a sheet metal intake mani?

Is it worth the cost to upgrade to a tubular manifold and 3in o2 for the green or should I stick with my ported 2g mani and evo3 o2?

Lastly, what kinds of drivetrain upgrades (clutch, tranny, axles, diff, driveshaft) are needed to support 500hp? (I know its not likely Ill hit this number, but humor me )



sorry for so many questions and thanks in advance for any advise!





also if anyone has a green for sale please feel free to pm me

 

[bfdahl]

Any cam upgrade with a bigger turbo is nice.

Seenings that your in Cali like me I would recomend not going over a 264 intake cam for smog testing issues.

and a SBR 3500 clutch or ACT 2900.

IMO there are many new turbos on the market now that offer better value and design over the Green.

most all Garrett BB CHRAs are cheaper than the green. and the PTE-Mitsu bolt on housings are available with an open design that eliminates creeping issues.

 

[daren_p]

If smog is an issue for you (which it was for me), like bfdahl said don't go bigger then the 264/FP1 intake, which can be combo'd with the same exhaust or some still don't have issues with the 272/FP2 exhaust. Now if you don't mid spending abit extra on a set of springs & retainers go with the FP1x series. This is what I run, they will make more power the the FP1/FP2 (264/272) combo & also offer better driveability. When you figure the HKS cams cost $200 or so more to start with, adding springs & retainers to the FP cams almost works out to the same.

Your crushed BOV should be fine, don't waste your money on a tubular manifold for a regularly driven street car (money can be much better spent in other areas), external is the best route to go, but there are a good number of people that don't have any issues with internal, a SMIM (sheet metal intake manifold) will defently help with the top end power the green is able to produce but it should be one of your last mods & be prepared to lose some of the mid/bottom end power, its also a good idea to increase your redline when running one of these as it shifts your powerband further up.

 

[CanadianTSi]

Your really gonna need a FMIC to take advantage of that green.

Also I passed Emissions just fine with FP2x's

 

[daren_p]

Your really gonna need a FMIC to take advantage of that green.

Also I passed Emissions just fine with FP2x's

Looks like he already has a FMIC listed in his profile

On a side note, did you have to do much to pass with the 2x's or did you go in with your "reg" tune? I wish I knew I could get away with the 2x's & emissions before I got the 1x's

 

[TurboDSMer]

You can't get a SMIM because they get ride of your EGR valve which is a crucial piece to pass emissions.

 

[AWDGreenTeam]

I'm not worried about smog in any way I just want a pair of cams that can offer power in the same range as my turbo 3000-7500 RPMs and an Intake Manifold to do the same.

CanadianTSI:

I do have a FMIC and that it is actually one of the problems I am having because I need to find a way to route from where it is right now (16g upward facing) to a green or similar turbo (downward facing). Also, how are you liking the 2x's?

bfdahl:

I wanted a green because it has proven to be the pump gas king and to be very reliable. However I'm not dead set on it if there exists more efficient turbos on the market. Basically I want a turbo that can output a maximum awhp coinciding with the maximum awhp that 91 octane pumpgas can handle while offering the largest area under the curve, the fastest spool and the most torque (compared to other turbos). At the same time I dont want to have to rebuild it every 10,xxx miles - it still needs to be reliable seeing as its my daily driver.

Also, do you think that all I need to do for my drivetrain is to upgrade my clutch? I do plan on launching the car and am worried about turning my driveshaft and axles into pretzles.

daren:

Are you able to run a conservative tune that gets good gas milage w/ DSMLink? Im looking into tuning right now and I would like to run two maps - one daily driver that gets good gas milage and then a full boost tune. I have tuned DSMLinks before and I love it but all fuel calibrations are for WOT... I noticed that you have a SBR manifold, do you think its worth it to upgrade to one over my porthed 2g manifold?


One other thing thats been bugging me is air metering. I definitely dont want to go MAFT because of the amount of hassle and money involved. 2G MAS is probably what Ill go with but it seems like there should be a better way to measure air for our cars.




Thanks for the imput guys

 

[BrokenTsi]

For pump gas and 91 octane, i highly recommend the fp3052. Makes LOTS of power on pump and spools extremely fast. Its well worth the extra money.

 

[AWDGreenTeam]

Yah 30 series turbos are amazing. Never could justify spending the extra $800 on the manditory 44mm gate and custom o2 on top of the already steep price of admition.

Sorry for going off topic but what kind of gains did you see from your intake manifold?

 

[CanadianTSi]

Love the 2x's, Idle fine at 750, just passed and Etest and they pull like mad up top

 

[bfdahl]

As far as other drivetrain upgrades I would to the Prothane motor mounts and get the best struts or coilovers you can buy to keep you from wheel hopping. this and the stutterbox is all I need to keep from busting a centerdiff or transfercase. (knock on wood).
If i bust one ill get the TRE spec replacment parts like the 4 spider center diff and the
evo shift forks.
I run stock axles.
If you need to do trans work, do it before your turbo! the trans is the single most expensive part of the DSM that will burn you in the ass if your not prepared!

when I look for old dsms for sale, I always get the ones with the bad engines before the ones with bad gearboxes.

I would have to say that the GT 30 series right now is the new "green turbo".
and you should heed the call!

go to RRE and talk to Honda Robert. he will show you around the turbos and get you into some thing cool. I think that the Green turbo while being proven is not much better than a 20G, they share the same old exhaust housing. the PTE housing for the street is the better way to go. or Full garret for the manly men.

you can run high 11s on stock 1G intake mannis, this would be the last thing id buy.

 

[twinkiemobile]

My green put down ridiculous amounts of torque on the stock 7 bolt long block on my 2g awd. i was giving cars head starts and passing them instantly.

stock cams works well but i admit that i wish i had some to mess with especially since i had the MAF-T a wide band and dsmlink.

the turbo outlasted the car as i blew apart the oil seals in the front case pushing the 120k mile stock block

you won't be dissapointed with the green. what really helped was my act2600 clutch though. other than that. 780cc injectors/aem rail/aeromotive afpr/255 pump/ FMIC/greddy-s/dsmlink. it performed like a CHAMP. no cams.. never go to the dyno though. good luck oh.. and i have a v2 sbr exhaust mani(it started to crack). but other than that the turbo is a champ. you won't be dissapointed. and it felt super nice on cali 91 octane as well.

 

[vr4play]

Although I don't have a green, I think you will definitely need bigger injectors. I run 680s and I get fuel cut at 24psi (IDC = +100%). I will be installing 880s this winter.

My internally gated came with the cut exhaust housing. It prevented boost creep, but I still had overboost problems. A good port fixed that.

I am partial to the clutchmaster FX500. I previously had the ACT2600, and the cm crushes it. In fairness, I was running the street disk and stock flywheel w/ the ACT.

 

[daren_p]

daren:

Are you able to run a conservative tune that gets good gas milage w/ DSMLink? Im looking into tuning right now and I would like to run two maps - one daily driver that gets good gas milage and then a full boost tune. I have tuned DSMLinks before and I love it but all fuel calibrations are for WOT... I noticed that you have a SBR manifold, do you think its worth it to upgrade to one over my porthed 2g manifold?

Thanks for the imput guys

You don't need a "conservative tune" per say. You are correct that most of the tunning in DSMLink is for your WOT pulls but there are a couple things that you use to get it to run like stock (you don't have to go though and adjust all the different rpms at a low load like an SAFC) it is much easier. It has a global and deadtime setting, you use the to compensate for your larger then stock injectors. It takes these values & if set properly will fire you injectors just like they did stock (as far as how much fuel, in time they obviously fire alot shorter as they flow more then stock) They give you some base settings with dsmlink for the common injectors then you just need to log your low (idle) & mid (cruise) fuel trims. Try to get them around 0 (stock ecu can adjust for +/1 12) and thats it. Under idle & part throttle conditions your car will run just like it did when it was stock. For the street you basically only need one tune for WOT, the MAF measure the airflow & adds or takes away fuel depending on how much flow it see's. It may not be 100% on if you go from one extreme boost level to another but I've run anywhere from like 13 psi to 22 & the tune was pretty much the same according to the wideband. Only time you really want another tune is with race gas as you usually run a leaner air/fuel ratio & advance the timing more.

Once you get your trims where they should be you will get basically the same gas milage as stock, that is if you can keep your foot out of it with the new turbo As for the SBR mani not sure what kind of difference it made as I swapped it when I installed the evoIII since my stock 2g one had a few internal cracks. I can say that I wasn't very impressed that after one summers use there were 2 crack about 1" long on the outside of the collector area that I found when I removed the heat shield. Not sure how the inside looks, guess I will find out when I swap turbos this spring, defently wasn't impressed as it hasn't even been used enough to have surface rust

 

[AWDGreenTeam]

Well for now Ill probably stick with my Greddy/Denso 660s untill I max them out - i like their response time. Same thing with my ACT 2600 and RRE Lightened Flywheel - whenever it goes Ill for sure upgrade.

bfdahl:
well, all I have as far as suspension goes is a set of tein lowering springs... My friend has a set of prothane motormounts sitting in his garage so if and when I pull the engine next I will slap those on. Stutter box (rev limiter) is not a problem as this will be provided by DSMLink.

When you said GT30s are the new greens did you mean something like SBR GT12? I know Mike @ Slowboy had one on his car and it hauled ass.

And I will drive up to RRE (been there before for emergency parts all too many times) and see what they think... From what Ive read in the last few posts about the SBR mani's cracking, might just go full garret anyway.


daren:

cool. I have messed with the dead time with the 750's on my friends GSX so I know how those work. Im glad to see you can use those to get a reasonable street tune.

so what turbo are you thinking about upgrading to?

 

[bfdahl]

The SBR turbos use a different exhaust housing than the PTE ones. and I dont like them.

but the CHRAs are the same. The PTE housings can be had with an open wastegate port that eleminates the boost creep Issuse that many have.

This was the main factor that swade my point of purchase from SBR to Dejon.

 

[Boost Demon]

I would also recommend the FP-2 cams, they are great up top as has already been mentioned. I have also heard about Twinkiemobile's SBR manifold problems (local guy, sorry to hear the news ) and would say stick it out with the ported 2g manifold, but I do like the tubular one I have. Go with the ACT 2600, it's proven and I'm kicking myself for getting my Spec stage II clutch, since it doesn't get along with my TDO6H-20g (making to much power for it to handle). A good boost leak test and tuning will go along way with making you the power your looking for and keep you very happy .