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Fp68hta 10.62@125

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larrykoren

10+ Year Contributor
102
3
Oct 4, 2008
toledo, Ohio
Well my boost is up to 33 psi peak now and with 100 less pounds and I ended up running 10.62 @125 with a 1.51 60ft on the first run. They have not kicked me yet so I am going to try and improve still. Nothing else has changed.

Here is the video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxid7LJimpc
 
nice time... could sem to notice that you bounces a bit on launch. get stiffer and i think you can get a better 60 and possibly better time!!

Good though!
 
Good work! Tighten up the rear suspension alittle to stop it from bouncing when launching may help with the 60'.
 
OK I ran a second run before I got kicked.
I ran a [email protected] with a 1.49 60ft.

The back story is I welded the wastegate hole on the o2 housing shut because I could only hold 28psi to redline. I went to norwalk on friday and it was holding 43psi to redline! I couldnt believe it but I was going pig rich and breaking up no matter what I did. It stalled all 3 passes down the track after it hit full boost.

SO I cut open the plate I welded but I cut the hole smaller than the o2 housing flange. ANd now it holds 33 psi to redline and it is running great with no break up.

I gained 6 mph and dropped 0.32 seconds from it. There is MUCH more left in this turbo if I can find out how to harness it.

Really it shows you that cams are unnecessary until you have a huge turbo or running really fast. This 10.6 is easy to replicate and the setup has more left in it as long as you can control boost, which I cannot until I get an external. BEcause the internal blows open at 28 even without vacuum.

10.62 @ 125 log.

No log for 10.61

YouTube - [email protected] Eagle Talon Milan

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[email protected] run, 1.49 60ft, launch pic.
 

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Damn impressive man!!! Keep up the good work. That car fly's on stock cams!
 
I keep hearing about these straps. Have they made a difference in your car? WHat is the best method for making these? I seen your seat belt ones, are they staying together and helping?


I do not know about the roll bar. I would like to stay as light as possible and go chromoly but I dont know where to buy one/who can make one and I do not know if I can get anyone to weld it.

If I go mild steel, then I know Jegs has one and they are local. And I could weld it myself with the mig welder. But it is only a 5 point and heavier.

I like to only do stuff once, and plan on running 9s sometime soon, so I would probably get a 10pt and for weight I want a chromoly. SO that would be my first choice. But like I said I do not know who makes them or where to buy it or maybe weld it (if I cant borrow one).

What are people doing for this? Just going to a chassis shop?
 
larrykoren said:
I keep hearing about these straps. Have they made a difference in your car? WHat is the best method for making these? I seen your seat belt ones, are they staying together and helping?


I do not know about the roll bar. I would like to stay as light as possible and go chromoly but I dont know where to buy one/who can make one and I do not know if I can get anyone to weld it.

If I go mild steel, then I know Jegs has one and they are local. And I could weld it myself with the mig welder. But it is only a 5 point and heavier.

I like to only do stuff once, and plan on running 9s sometime soon, so I would probably get a 10pt and for weight I want a chromoly. SO that would be my first choice. But like I said I do not know who makes them or where to buy it or maybe weld it (if I cant borrow one).

What are people doing for this? Just going to a chassis shop?
Click to expand...

Seems "most guys" tend to just take the car to a chassis/race shop and drop the car off along with $1500 or so.:barf: My car has a mild steel 6pt rollBAR, and from what I'v been told by guys that do rollbar work...it's about 90-100lb of total weight where a Chromoly bar should be about 65lb for the same setup. On a 9.99-8.50 legal rollCAGE with significantly more bar, the difference in weight is even more significant...likely upwards of 50lb heavier to do mild steel vs chromoly.

From what I can tell you about cost....a chromoly 9 sec cage is going to be quite a few hundred just in material and has to be TIG welded to pass certification. But as you said, this just about the most important part of a racecar when it comes to not doing it over again. Im in that conundrum right now and the thought of cutting out a mild steel rollbar to replace it with a chromoly cage is just crazy wastefull and expensive. How I wish I put down the cash years ago for chromoly instead of saving a couple hundred bucks on mild steel.

As for the limit straps, all I can say is mine stayed together for one weak launch with no issues. Im betting they will be fine for strength. But I can't say if they helped at all because I only got one run with them on and it was weak 1.58 as I had the launch boost level only at 21psi and it just wasn't enough power to come out hard. Blew my headgasket/head on that run.
 
What car were you racing in the first slip? You can tell he let off half way through. Lol.
 
1990AWD said:
What car were you racing in the first slip? You can tell he let off half way through. Lol.
Click to expand...

Did you watch the first video? You can see the dragster at the very beginning of the video. It was a rear engine dragster that was running in the 7s. I have been put up against 2 dragsters this week in 5 total runs. I dont know why. But ya it was a full out dragster and was ridiculously fast.

Nate Crisman said:
Seems "most guys" tend to just take the car to a chassis/race shop and drop the car off along with $1500 or so.:barf: My car has a mild steel 6pt rollBAR, and from what I'v been told by guys that do rollbar work...it's about 90-100lb of total weight where a Chromoly bar should be about 65lb for the same setup. On a 9.99-8.50 legal rollCAGE with significantly more bar, the difference in weight is even more significant...likely upwards of 50lb heavier to do mild steel vs chromoly.

From what I can tell you about cost....a chromoly 9 sec cage is going to be quite a few hundred just in material and has to be TIG welded to pass certification. But as you said, this just about the most important part of a racecar when it comes to not doing it over again. Im in that conundrum right now and the thought of cutting out a mild steel rollbar to replace it with a chromoly cage is just crazy wastefull and expensive. How I wish I put down the cash years ago for chromoly instead of saving a couple hundred bucks on mild steel.

As for the limit straps, all I can say is mine stayed together for one weak launch with no issues. Im betting they will be fine for strength. But I can't say if they helped at all because I only got one run with them on and it was weak 1.58 as I had the launch boost level only at 21psi and it just wasn't enough power to come out hard. Blew my headgasket/head on that run.
Click to expand...

Thanks man. I would definitely love to know and see a log of how you did the boost control on your setup. I just dont know how it is going to do with my internal, I have an vband tial external but no o2 housing for it yet.

DO you know what size tial wastegate is used for the FP turbine housings where it is built in? Because my external is on my FP3575 but I dont really know the size. I was told 40 but I only see 44 on tials site.

I might try the straps some time later on after I get a cage and can go back. I think I am going to go full cage chromoly. I think I might have a guy that can TIG it. I just need to get the tubes and them bent i guess. Is there a specific way to do it to be certified with NHRA? I see cages being put in many different ways in the dsms.
 
Nice runs!:hellyeah: You definitely need to get at least a new set of struts for that thing though. I have stock springs with kyb agx struts and the difference over the old worn out stock struts is definitely night and day. I had my nose to the sky before them too, but after them the nose barely lifts and the rear barely squats.:D
 
larrykoren said:
Do you know what size tial wastegate is used for the FP turbine housings where it is built in? Because my external is on my FP3575 but I dont really know the size. I was told 40 but I only see 44 on tials site.
Click to expand...

If the turbine housing has a 4-bolt wastegate, then it's the 40. If it's v-band, it's the 44. Tial discontinued the 4-bolt 40mm a few years ago and replaced it with the newer 4-bolt 41mm that they still sell. Hope that helps. :)
 
larrykoren said:
I keep hearing about these straps. Have they made a difference in your car? WHat is the best method for making these? I seen your seat belt ones, are they staying together and helping?


I do not know about the roll bar. I would like to stay as light as possible and go chromoly but I dont know where to buy one/who can make one and I do not know if I can get anyone to weld it.

If I go mild steel, then I know Jegs has one and they are local. And I could weld it myself with the mig welder. But it is only a 5 point and heavier.

I like to only do stuff once, and plan on running 9s sometime soon, so I would probably get a 10pt and for weight I want a chromoly. SO that would be my first choice. But like I said I do not know who makes them or where to buy it or maybe weld it (if I cant borrow one).

What are people doing for this? Just going to a chassis shop?
Click to expand...

Mtk's welding race cars here in jersey does them and does alot of evo, civic, vettes , dsm

has done cages for cartek,morales racing ,ivey , ams "diff one" , green racing

pic of there work

http://njdsm.org/forums/showthread.php?9907-Cage-porn-its-work-safe
 
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Here is the wastegate, it is vband, so do they make o2 housings for this wastegate to use on a mitsu turbine housing? I have one for this turbo, I want to use the external on my 68hta. I will look around, I am pretty sure I have seen ones for the 44mm before.

If you weld the center diff does it send all power to the back?

I will look into that place. I just wish there was someone local that I knew about. I can weld it myself I just need materials and have them bent really.
 
Last edited:
larrykoren said:
Here is the wastegate, it is vband, so do they make o2 housings for this? I will look around, I am pretty sure I have seen ones for the 44mm before.
Click to expand...

FP sells a few o2 housing options for their FP30 housings:

2.5" with gate dump
Forced Performance Turbochargers: FP Custom 2.5" SS O2 Housing for FP30 Turbo

3" with gate dump or recirculated
Forced Performance Turbochargers: FP Custom 3" SS O2 Housing for FP30 Turbo

New cast one, not listed separately on their site, only shown with their package
Forced Performance Turbochargers: FP 3176HTA Turbo Package Sale
 
Nate Crisman said:
As for the limit straps, all I can say is mine stayed together for one weak launch with no issues. Im betting they will be fine for strength. But I can't say if they helped at all because I only got one run with them on and it was weak 1.58 as I had the launch boost level only at 21psi and it just wasn't enough power to come out hard. Blew my headgasket/head on that run.
Click to expand...

nate post some pics of yours
 
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