FP68HTA 10 second pass

[Nate Crisman]

Dude, I see little chunks of weight in multiple spots! the car could be even lighter, given some more effort.

Drivers motor mount and block mount for PS
HUGE battery (at least 15lb to lose there)
stock fans are heavier than aftermarket slims and you likely only need one.
91-94 OFH is heavier than a forward facing..(not to mention they are crappy for mixing fluids and loosening filters)
Im going to guess the wiring harnesses haven't been culled down since there still is an AC relay box by the brake booster...if so, there is a solid 20lb in wiring that can be round filed.

The more I see if this car, the more I'm impressed with the simplicity. Kudos

The only thing that Im surprised about is that track tech lets you run with the drivers door cut up without either an oem panel or a sheemetal skin. That seems like a good way to slash your arm to the bone and die of blood loss in the event of a crash. Mine are chopped up pretty much the same, but I'd guess the tech at my local track would send me back to the trailer without a cover of some sort.

 

[TSimage]

I remember a year ago when everybody was saying you can't run 10's on that turbo and the only reason Lucus English did is because it was a lightened race car and he wasn't being truthful about the mods on the car. Hopefully this puts it to rest but I know it won't.

Can you post up the model # of the wheel you went with and how you like the fitment? I am looking into a set myself and was wondering what style, size, and backspacing they are. Also what is the OD of the slick and are you still out of gear on the top end?

Lucas ran a 10.3 and a lot faster.. His times are light years beyond what was accomplished by the OP. Not taking away from the OP but this definitely wouldn't be a sustainable example. On a side note people have been running 10s with regular 16gs, I don't think there was ever a doubt that the HTA could run 10s, people questioned it nearly running 9s on such a basic build. Lucas is simply a badass similar to Curt Brown and Dave Wolmer, a lot fo people will never do what they have done nor could they explain it it . Were they using methane up in Washington as all the rumors pointed to? We'll never know but I'd like to think they are just well tuned vehicles.

Again, congrats to the OP. Your track seems to be VERY lax on safety/inspection however..

 

[larrykoren]

The driver door has that little weather stripping around the sharp edges but I was told they recommend sheet metal over it. As far as the tech, I go to Norwalk (summit motorsports park) and Mialn dragway mostly. I have been to at least 5 others too. No one ever gives me any trouble. The car is more less seen as a street car and they look it over and have much bigger things to worry about with the full out race cars that show up. There really is not much difference than a street car. I mean the door being cut, the fuel cell, and thats about it. I mean really I just have interior taken out, which they dont care about. Also, the engine bay is stock.

They just make me have a sfi 5 pt harness and a sfi fire jacket and they both stress that along with metal valve stems which I have.

Again, Lucas had a 2.3 right, it was built and had higher compression, cams and other mods. It is a far cry from my car but if I had his mods I dont see why it would be very much different.

Nate, by the mount do you mean cutting it so it doesnt go up to where the ps pump used to be and removing the mount part that has the studs and mounts to the block in the front? I never thought of that but I have seen aftermarket mounts that are much smaller.

A battery is a given. I just never really got around to it, but it would save quite a bit. I just dont like to spend much money on weight when I could mod it and probably get more out of it that way. Like the battery is over 100 bucks, cf is major expensive as is lexan. Plus I got jegs wheels over weld, where I saved 28 lbs I could have saved 48 but for 300 more dollars. Instead of spending on weight at this point I will get cams next most likely.

Yea I do have both stock metal fans in still. But I want to make sure my radiator stays cool and my tranny cooler as well. I probably could go slim and only one without a problem though.

Which OFH is forward facing and lighter? Is it the 90? I never looked into it before.

I really cut alot of wire out of my 3000gt but I never got into it with the talon because I have not removed the dash yet. If I make this into my full race car I will cut all the wiring down and get rid of what is left.

But I really like the mount idea and the battery will probably come sometime soon and I might pull the one fan.

 

[Nate Crisman]

Battery: I run a 14lb lawnmower 275cca batt from walmart. $23 normal price. It fits on subframe where the charcoal canister used to be.

Motor mount: yeah, just remove the cast part that bolt to the block in front, and slice the L off the top mount. Saves about 4lb of dead weight.

OFH. the forward facing is from a mightly max I believe. JNZ stocks it for about $20. Eliminates the oil cooler all together and makes more room for downpipe/o2 housing work.

 

[Boug]

Truly awesome and the tips about weight reduction are priceless. Thanks.

 

[larrykoren]

Okay I am trying to remove the short turbo bolt that bolts the exhaust manifold to the turbine housing. I have a fp race manifold and this is the short "evo" bolt that is stuck. I used an impact on the 3 and they came right out. BUT for the fourth one you cannot get a socket on it and you cannot get a closed end wrench on it. When I try to remove it with the open end of the wrench the two sides of the open end bend and it doesnt come loose. The bolt is grade 11 and is not stripping but all the craftsman wrenches I have will not break this loose. I put antiseize on it before hand and I have ob blaster on it, but I cannot break this loose.

How do people take the last bolt out of this fp race manifold. I never have taken this bolt out of the fp race mani before. Its ticking me off. I have never seen anything like this where all you can get is an open end wrench on it.

 

[flyineagletsi]

Turn the car on, get some goood heat into that exhaust manifold and then hit it with the impact. Should be a lot easier. If that doesn't work, use a torch to heat it up.

Congrats on the outstanding numbers. Small turbo love FTW.

 

[larrykoren]

Well its the one that you cannot get a socket on because of the race mani design but I got it off. I had to use vise grips and it was no problem. Now my next problem is how to remove the allen head screw in the ofh. Should I heat it first? It is in there very good and it didnt strip but it broke my 8mm hex socket in pieces trying to loosen it and it doesnt budge. I am trying to feed my fp3575 from the ofh on my other car but it seems like it doesnt wanna come out and I dont wanna destroy the hex head. I always fed from the head and never from the ofh so I do not want to mess it up.

 

[Steve93Talon]

Well its the one that you cannot get a socket on because of the race mani design but I got it off. I had to use vise grips and it was no problem. Now my next problem is how to remove the allen head screw in the ofh. Should I heat it first? It is in there very good and it didnt strip but it broke my 8mm hex socket in pieces trying to loosen it and it doesnt budge. I am trying to feed my fp3575 from the ofh on my other car but it seems like it doesnt wanna come out and I dont wanna destroy the hex head. I always fed from the head and never from the ofh so I do not want to mess it up.

Yep, gotta heat it up.

 

[larrykoren]

Ok thanks I got it. It took some heat!

 

[larrykoren]

OK! I need some major HELP FAST!

I was driving around and the car was driving normal around the city. I drive an hour on the interstate, I pull over to fill up my fuel cell. I pulled over in a rest stop and filled up with my gas can. I immediately try to get back on the interstate and the car will not accelerate.

It feels like limp mode but number 1 its impossible I though and number 2 it is in 3rd when I shift 1, 2 , or third gear. And when I shift into 4th it goes into 4th.

I have my toggle switch shift box wired up to the solenoid connector. I have NOT had a TCU in there for years. SO its none of the normal things like a bad tcu, bad caps, ect.

I have no clue about the autos really so I have no clue what to do and I plan to go to the strip in the am tomorrow. ANd I am dying to go again.

ANy help would be awesome.

COuld 1st and second just be gone?

Oh and R, N, P work fine.

What gears are together? R, 3, 4 all work and I can shift from 3 to 4th on my box but when i go to 1 and/or 2 it is still in 3rd.

Well I traced the wiring and made sure it was geetting to the solenoids and it ended up working again. False alarm.

 

[Nate Crisman]

Pin 3 Orange wire Shift solenoid "A" toggle; 12v switched on for 1st & 4th - off for 2nd & 3rd
Pin 4 Yellow wire Shift solenoid "B" toggle; 12v switched on for 1st & 2nd - off for 3rd & 4th

If solenoid B is not working, that would cause you to lose 1st and 2nd gear. BUT when your trying to get first gear with the toggle switches, the trans should be in OD.
1st gear: A on B on
2nd gear: A off B on
3rd gear: A off B off
4th gear: A on B off

 

[larrykoren]

Ya man thanks. It ended up raining and no drag strip anyway. But my toggle swutch for solenoid B was not providing the 12v power. I made sure all connections were good and used a test light at the connector and now it has power to both. So we are shifting good again!