Fp manifold install+BOV install+ many other questions!!

[Hestman]

Okay to get a background of where Im at let me bring you all up to speed. My oil cooler assebly came apart and I wasnt paying any attention to my oil pressure gauge until it was too late. I found a pretty awesome built motor for cheap that I chose to install.

Weisco 10:1 pistons .020 (I know its high but I couldnt pass up this deal)
Eagle rods
Cometic triple layer metal head gasket
Arp Rod bolts
Arp head bolts
FP 272 camshafts
light porting and polishing to head
new valve train
new timing belt kit
new oil pump

All assembled at a good machine shop.


I purchased some other parts too I have some questions about

First the FP exhaust manifold. Two of the old longer bolts work but the other two bolt holes are clearly too short for the longer bolts. Why werent new bolts included in the kit? I mean you pay around $300 for the thing? I didnt even see an option on their site to buy the bolts needed for proper installation. Oh well a quick stop to the hardare store should do. Should I put lock washers on all the bolts? The factory bolts didnt come with any so I was just wondering.

Second the VR speed factory FMIC kit. (1g) Do I need a new gasket for the BOV? Where would I get one? The BOV doesnt "Bolt up" Looks like ill have to get longer bolts and nuts to install this. Thought it was a "Complete" kit but oh well I got it on their black friday special and you cant beat it!!

Third Their is a part that on a stock 1G bolts to the ront of the oil cooler. If you look at it its kinda round and doesnt look like it has a hex head on it but rather you grab it with plyers to screw in and out. What Is this part? I think the front of it broke off when I was installing the motor. Its silver in the back and black in the front and has a little screw on the end of it that looks like would thread into a fuel pressure gauge or something like that. Very fine threads.

Fourth The motor has been sitting for a year and the coolant port on the head from what I could see looked like it had some rusty stuff in it. Should I fill the coolant system with coolant + some other sort of cleaner and change it after 100 or so miles? Im just making sure Ive done everything right. I plan to change the oil after the first 200 or so miles just to be safe.

Fifth Do I need a new gasket where the J pipe bolts to the charge part of the turbo? or will the old one do? I broke a stinkin bolt that threads into the charge pipe of my new EVO3 16g turbo. The part the J pipe bolts to. I have no Idea how I did it maybe it was the wierd angle you have to get into to bolt it up. I read somewhere later that alot of people bolt it on before installing the turbo. This would have been very useful information had it been included in the packaging of the intercooler. Maybe just a helpful hint or something . Then again I guess I cant see alot of people wanting to pull their whole turbo off and getting new gaskets and what not. Well I think Im going to take it to a machine shop before I damage anything bc my easy out from cheap harbor freight broke off in it. Its the bolt hole that doesnt go all the way through otherwise i would have drilled that sucker out and tapped in a new thread.

I know I did alot of rambling but if anyone can answer any of my question especially the one about the piece that threads into the oil cooler I would be very greatful. And for the gasket questions I have gasket making material from autozone. The blue roll stuff. I wasnt sure if it was rated for Heat/boost. Anyone with experience would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

 

[dsmtwins2g]

sounds like you're haveing a bad day.nothing ever works out or fits like it supposed to.best of luck man.

 

[johneclipse]

Okay to get a background of where Im at let me bring you all up to speed. My oil cooler assebly came apart and I wasnt paying any attention to my oil pressure gauge until it was too late. I found a pretty awesome built motor for cheap that I chose to install.

Weisco 10:1 pistons .020 (I know its high but I couldnt pass up this deal)
Eagle rods
Cometic triple layer metal head gasket
Arp Rod bolts
Arp head bolts
FP 272 camshafts
light porting and polishing to head
new valve train
new timing belt kit
new oil pump

All assembled at a good machine shop.


I purchased some other parts too I have some questions about

First the FP exhaust manifold. Two of the old longer bolts work but the other two bolt holes are clearly too short for the longer bolts. Why werent new bolts included in the kit? I mean you pay around $300 for the thing? I didnt even see an option on their site to buy the bolts needed for proper installation. Oh well a quick stop to the hardare store should do. Should I put lock washers on all the bolts? The factory bolts didnt come with any so I was just wondering.

Second the VR speed factory FMIC kit. (1g) Do I need a new gasket for the BOV? Where would I get one? The BOV doesnt "Bolt up" Looks like ill have to get longer bolts and nuts to install this. Thought it was a "Complete" kit but oh well I got it on their black friday special and you cant beat it!!

yes...you will need a gasket or suffer from a massive boost leak. you can order one from anyone of the vendors. as for fitment...what BOV did you tell them you were using? and which one are you actually using?

Third Their is a part that on a stock 1G bolts to the ront of the oil cooler. If you look at it its kinda round and doesnt look like it has a hex head on it but rather you grab it with plyers to screw in and out. What Is this part? I think the front of it broke off when I was installing the motor. Its silver in the back and black in the front and has a little screw on the end of it that looks like would thread into a fuel pressure gauge or something like that. Very fine threads.

Fourth The motor has been sitting for a year and the coolant port on the head from what I could see looked like it had some rusty stuff in it. Should I fill the coolant system with coolant + some other sort of cleaner and change it after 100 or so miles? Im just making sure Ive done everything right. I plan to change the oil after the first 200 or so miles just to be safe.

Go ahead and run a "cleaner" through it, its not gonna hurt anything.

Fifth Do I need a new gasket where the J pipe bolts to the charge part of the turbo? or will the old one do? I broke a stinkin bolt that threads into the charge pipe of my new EVO3 16g turbo. The part the J pipe bolts to. I have no Idea how I did it maybe it was the wierd angle you have to get into to bolt it up. I read somewhere later that alot of people bolt it on before installing the turbo. This would have been very useful information had it been included in the packaging of the intercooler. Maybe just a helpful hint or something . Then again I guess I cant see alot of people wanting to pull their whole turbo off and getting new gaskets and what not. Well I think Im going to take it to a machine shop before I damage anything bc my easy out from cheap harbor freight broke off in it. Its the bolt hole that doesnt go all the way through otherwise i would have drilled that sucker out and tapped in a new thread.

Once again, yes you need a gasket. It would be a boost leak again if you didnt. And no offense...but there is no reason at all for a intercooler company to leave a note saying to put the j-pipe on first. I never put mine on first before the turbo, and have yet to break a bolt off in it.

Also, now that you broke an easy out in that turbo....dont even try to do anything and pray the machine shop wont charge you an arm and a leg to get the easy out

I know I did alot of rambling but if anyone can answer any of my question especially the one about the piece that threads into the oil cooler I would be very greatful. And for the gasket questions I have gasket making material from autozone. The blue roll stuff. I wasnt sure if it was rated for Heat/boost. Anyone with experience would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

blue stuff should be fine for both the BOV and J-Pipe.

 

[DGajre777]

First the FP exhaust manifold. Two of the old longer bolts work but the other two bolt holes are clearly too short for the longer bolts. Why werent new bolts included in the kit? I mean you pay around $300 for the thing? I didnt even see an option on their site to buy the bolts needed for proper installation. Oh well a quick stop to the hardare store should do. Should I put lock washers on all the bolts? The factory bolts didnt come with any so I was just wondering.

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COMBI 2 BOLT KIT -
FFWD Connection - Race Injuns That Will Freeze Your Brain

 

[Hestman]

Im using the stock 1g BOV and thats what I selected when I ordered the kit. THe bolt holes line up I was just under the impression it would BOLT it.

I will take it to a maching shop Im pretty good friends with a guy who owns one.

I will cut new blue gaskets it wouldnt be hard. Reason I was asking is bc they are rubber gaskets not paper and looked fine just wondering if someone knew something I didnt.

Thank you for your quick reply.

 

[LiquidX]

The manifold uses two OEM DSM bolts and 2 Evo manifold bolts. You will also need a tot of 8 conical washers and all of those are sold on FP website.

Which BOV flange is on the VRSF pipe and which BOV are you using?

New gaskets should be used. The gasket maker could work just look to see you aren't exceeding the heat rating. After it's installed properly and set in you need to do a boost leak test to verify it's holding. You should be doing a test regardless since you are messing with air lines.

The rusty stuff is infact rust. Mine still has rust forming and a magnetic drain plug will catch some of it assuming you have an aftermarket radiator. You could pull the tstat housing and run a garden hose through there until the water coming out goes clear.

 

[Hestman]

The manifold uses two OEM DSM bolts and 2 Evo manifold bolts. You will also need a tot of 8 conical washers and all of those are sold on FP website.

Which BOV flange is on the VRSF pipe and which BOV are you using?

New gaskets should be used. The gasket maker could work just look to see you aren't exceeding the heat rating. After it's installed properly and set in you need to do a boost leak test to verify it's holding. You should be doing a test regardless since you are messing with air lines.

The rusty stuff is infact rust. Mine still has rust forming and a magnetic drain plug will catch some of it assuming you have an aftermarket radiator. You could pull the tstat housing and run a garden hose through there until the water coming out goes clear.

Stock 1g BOV. I selected that option when I purchased the fmic. And I have a really nice aftermarket radiator. Mishimoto!! Came with the car. And my buddy has a really nice boost leak tester with an air compressor set to push out constant 20psi I plan to do that when Im finished.

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COMBI 2 BOLT KIT -
FFWD Connection - Race Injuns That Will Freeze Your Brain

Thank you very much Ill purchase this kit asap.

Well I took it to my machine shop he is going to fix everything for me. I also had a caliper bolt break off in the caliper bracket. FML

One more thing, The 02 housing that I have is ported out but it doesnt have the studs in it anymore so its a pain to get the dp on. He said If i got some studs hell weld them in for me. Any idea what studs I should get? Like how long or what thread? I dont think it really matters as there is just a hole on the dp for them to go through Any advice would be greatly appreciated thank you.

Also I lost the 2 bolts that came with the FMIC kit that bolt the jpipe down. Any idea how long these are?? I know they are longer than factory I just need to know what size thread pitch ect ect so I can get new ones. Sorry for all the mistakes I just orginized my garage it was a mess in there swapping out the motor in my tiny garage

 

[90tsiPA]

If you had some spare 02 housing bolts they are the same also.

 

[Tanro]

Okay.

Yes you need a BoV gasket. You can get one from most vendors. STM Sold me About 5 of them for around 2$ a piece. Or, you can get gasket material from your local parts store and cut out your own gasket. Ask for paper gasket material Cork may be a bit to thick and spongy for this application.

Make sure to spray that gasket with hairspray or copper spray! Will prevent future boost leaks.

As for the BoV flange, no the flange is not threaded, you just need a few bolts, washers, and locknuts. You can get them at your local auto parts store for about 5$.

You have one of the FP Race Manifols that requires 2 different length bolts? You can solve this in many ways. Cut your bolts with a dremeel or other cutting tool and tap new threads onto them. Or if you have some extra o2 housing bolts those work as well. Other wise, use a bolt from an evo manifold.

As far as gaskets go you really need to change the paper ones everytime you take a part off.

 

[Hestman]

Okay I have plenty of blue gasket material left im going to go ahead and cut those. Where can I get the copper spray? autozone? And Ill just get longer bolts and nuts from ace for the bov.

Ill just get stainless bolts from ace hardware for my turbo they should do the trick. Im gonna put a washer and a lock washer on each bolt plus put anti sieze on them in case i got for a bigger turbo later .


But my other question. What is that piece that plugs into the front of the oil cooler on the car? Im pretty sure the oil pressure sending unit is the one in the back that the wire bolts to the end of. this one is silver with black plastic top. I obviously broke mine and need to know where to go to replace it i just need to figure out what it is. Thank you all for your quick and helpful responses one day ill be able to shed some light on the newcommers as you did me.

Okay a quick search showed me its the oil pressure switch for the "Idiot light" thanks again for this forum id be lost without it

 

[LiquidX]

Okay I have plenty of blue gasket material left im going to go ahead and cut those. Where can I get the copper spray? autozone? And Ill just get longer bolts and nuts from ace for the bov.

Ill just get stainless bolts from ace hardware for my turbo they should do the trick. Im gonna put a washer and a lock washer on each bolt plus put anti sieze on them in case i got for a bigger turbo later .

Copper spray can be found at Autozone, yes. As for the turbo bolts, do not use hardware store bolts. They will not take the heat and stress. You need OEM bolts and the conical washers (2 on each).

 

[Hestman]

Copper spray can be found at Autozone, yes. As for the turbo bolts, do not use hardware store bolts. They will not take the heat and stress. You need OEM bolts and the conical washers (2 on each).

That kit he posted that I just ordered came with 4 washers??

 

[jed344]

i swapped most the bolts on my turbo, o2 housing to ARP bolts myself. and as far as gasket iv made them and then usually put silicone on the gasket seals up very nice.

 

[LiquidX]

That kit he posted that I just ordered came with 4 washers??

They also looked to be an ARP kit. Even with the ARP bolts you really need to use the 8 conical OEM washers as using the regular washers will break the bolts.

Myself and others have had ARP turbo bolts break for that exact reason.

 

[Hestman]

They also looked to be an ARP kit. Even with the ARP bolts you really need to use the 8 conical OEM washers as using the regular washers will break the bolts.

Myself and others have had ARP turbo bolts break for that exact reason.

Wow that sounds like a pain. Ill use the washers from my old ones and mount them with the new ones that come on the kit. cool?

 

[LiquidX]

I honestly don't care what you do as it's your car. I'm merely telling you what you should do

 

[b00st3d4g63]

Are you supposed to use those washers with the o2 housing too? This is the first time I heard to use those washers. Thanks for the info!

 

[LiquidX]

Are you supposed to use those washers with the o2 housing too? This is the first time I heard to use those washers. Thanks for the info!

The OEM conical washers are for the turbo-to-manifold bolts only. With them doubled up they act as a spring to give the proper tension on the bolts when tightened down.

The ARP bolts and washers that I used (before I knew about all of this) never were able to be torqued down IIRC. The bolts just spun and when I needed to remove the turbo a month or two later, 2 of the bolts were snapped. That was with the use of anti-seize as well.

The o2 housing uses normal washers.

 

[90tsiPA]

wow. I could never figure out why my arp turbo bolts broke. I figured they weren't designed for the heat. Learn something new every day.

 

[LiquidX]

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[Hestman]

I honestly don't care what you do as it's your car. I'm merely telling you what you should do

Yes and your telling me to use 8 oem washers. I figured the 4 that are on there now are OEM correct?? And the ones that come with the kit I figure would be sufficient washers. Keep in mind Im running an EVO3 16g and plan on running it at no more than 10-15 psi until I get my fuel injectors and engine management upgraded. I wasnt challenging you by any means i was simply asking if putting the ones that are on the car (OEM) washers with the one on the kit would work. Im trying to do what i "Should" do im just wondering if this is a way i will be doing what I "Should" be doing. Thank you

If thats not the case however how do I come across these 8 oem washers. Call mitsubishi? and if so do you know what part number, how to ask for them, cost, ect ect

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Love that btw

Sorry just re read your post and seen they were sold on FP wwebsite. Thank you so much for your info ill purchase the 8 washers now. I already ordered the kit I seen yesterday as im in a hurry to get this running. bumming rides to school is no fun for college

 

[b00st3d4g63]

I broke one of my arps in my turbo that's the reason my cars not together yet. I never had any problems when I had a 16g but with my new turbo I just used the provided washers thats probably why it broke. Do the washers have to be the OEM ones or can you get some at lowes or home depot?

 

[Hestman]

Forced Performance Turbochargers: Assorted Bolts, Studs and Washers

Click on the link then click on the picture to the far right. Its cheap but you have to spend at least $20 to make an order there so I got a dp gasket and 2 bottles of royal purple fluid.

 

[b00st3d4g63]

I just got them at extremepsi they were $1.98 each.

 

[Hestman]

I think i got the 140 weight . will that be bad for transfer case and tranny? and is two bottles enough for both?

Quick search on vfaq says the transmission takes 2.4 quarts and the transfer case takes .5 quarts. should be easy to do. I just placed the order about an hour ago maybe I can switch the fluid to the 90w and add an extra bottle. Or will the 140 be okay for the tranny? make it last longer?

Well just talked to him. The royal purple is on back order so i got the DP gasket the turbo oil drain gasket and 8 of the washers i needed that were $2 a piece!! well i guess im gonna go up to summit racing and get 3 quarts of the 90w and 1qt of the 140w for the transfer case. Ill drain and change those today while I wait on my parts. Then ill probably get 10w40 oil to break in the motor even though it has 5k miles on it it sat for a while so ill put about 200-500 miles on it and flush the radiator and the oil just to be safe. Ill run some prestone anti freeze cleaner just to be safe and ill read the bottle for all the instructions.