FMIC or water injection

[destrux]

I'm trying to decide between replacing my current MKIV Supra SMIC with a cheap $250 SSAutoChrome FMIC (bar and plate, side flow, 24x12x4" core) or sticking with the supra SMIC and adding on an aquamist water injection system. My SMIC has 4" patch of messed up fins in the middle, from bugs hitting it, and the guy I originally bought it from was kind enough to paint it before he mailed it to me. It still keeps the UICP cool to the touch during the summer though.

Anyone have any opinion on what would be my best choice?

My basic setup:
14b
ported 02
2.5" turbo back exh
3" intake
3" MAF
2.5" IC pipes
ported exhaust manifold
17psi of boost

 

[DSMcrazy3]

First of all, you said SSautochrome. It is not recommended at all that you buy from that company. They are notorious for selling crap.

Water injection will help lower the temps. but only to a certain point. Water injection isn't as safe as a front mount intercooler. I say you should just keep the SMIC you have(or buy a core off of Ebay for under 200) and run the water injection. I just wouldn't recommend only water injection.

 

[2gGSX]

First of all, you said SSautochrome. It is not recommended at all that you buy from that company. They are notorious for selling crap.

Water injection will help lower the temps. but only to a certain point. Water injection isn't as safe as a front mount intercooler. I say you should just keep the SMIC you have(or buy a core off of Ebay for under 200) and run the water injection. I just wouldn't recommend only water injection.

I've seen some miraculous things done with just water injection. The supra SMIC you have now is not causing you any heat soak problems, so there is no real reason to have to upgrade to a FMIC now. Being on the 14b you should be fine for a while, even if you get a 16g upgrade to a certain extent. That being said, the water injection WILL give you a lot of benefits--it decreases your knock count and allows you to run more timing, which will in turn make more power.

 

[dsm-onster]

I've seen some miraculous things done with just water injection.

I agree. My case: water injection, stock sidemount, stock fuel system, small 16g at 24 psi, no knock in any gear from stop to 100+ mph

Water injection is not safe if you do not check on your resevoir. Water injection is safer than a front mount if you plan on ringing out your turbo. A simple setup will NEVER heat soak, and always perform in a consistant maner. AND costs are under $300US. If you out grow your setup get another injection nozzle for $10US. If you plan properly you will NEVER out grow your setup. I say move your supra sidemount to the front. Then get a simple water injection system from a reputable company. Aquamist, Snow, Aquastealth (my favorite), SMC.

 

[Stapl3]

The supra IC you have is perfect for a 14b.

Flip the core so the bad side is facing the inside.

Remove that paint. The reason it's aluminum and has fins is to radiate heat. That paint is holding it in and really keeping the air from pulling the heat away as it hits it.

http://www.mirage-performance.com/sonata/WaterInjection/

Also see VFAQ.com

 

[Steve93Talon]

I'm running a 14b with water/meth injection. Previously, my charge temps were close to 200F by the end of the 1/4, with lots of knock through 3rd and 4th. With the injection, I see 160F charge temps at the top of 4th, little to no knock in 3rd, and mininal knock (less than 7 counts) in 4th. I ran a 12.25 @ 110 on water/meth and pump gas and a 12.12 @ 112 on race gas. A FMIC would cool the charge temps better than the water injection could, but if you're running pump gas, consider that a 50% water/meth setup (washer fluid) would cool the charge AND add octane.

 

[destrux]

I wasnt going to run just water injection by itself... I was keeping the supra IC if I didnt replace it with the frontmount. Thanks for the tip on the junk parts, if I do decide to get a FMIC later, I'll look elsewhere.

I found a water injection kit for $200, it has a 140psi pump, stop solenoid, meth safe fittings and tube, 3 different nozzles, and an adjustable boost pressure switch. It looks like a decent kit. I want to add an inline filter and a larger 2 gallon water tank with a low water sensor though.

I dont plan on running more than 19 psi on the 14b, but I have my timing retarded by 4 degrees overall and I can only run 16psi in the summer or I get some knock on hot days. So if I run the water injection with a 50/50 mix in it, I'm hoping I can turn the timing back to stock (or a little more advanced) and keep the boost at 19psi all summer with acceptable amounts of knock... plus it will clean up the carbon in my engine (it has 150K on it).

 

[dsm-onster]

A FMIC would cool the charge temps better than the water injection could, but if you're running pump gas, consider that a 50% water/meth setup (washer fluid) would cool the charge AND add octane.

Impressive numbers . Man, I don't know. I can get out and feel my intake mani after a hard pull at 25 psi on my 18g and it is cold to the touch, not just cool. I know of guys actually reporting aircharge temps below ambient in most cases. I don't think a big front mount can bring temps below ambient. . . Nvertheless, IMHO, the greatest thing about water injection is exactly what you said: it cools the charge AND adds octane.

 

[dsm-onster]

I dont plan on running more than 19 psi on the 14b, but I have my timing retarded by 4 degrees overall and I can only run 16psi in the summer or I get some knock on hot days. So if I run the water injection with a 50/50 mix in it, I'm hoping I can turn the timing back to stock (or a little more advanced) and keep the boost at 19psi all summer with acceptable amounts of knock... plus it will clean up the carbon in my engine (it has 150K on it).

Good idea. don't destroy a perfectly good turbo for more power. Advancing the timing will give her power through out the rpm range. If you can? lean her out, if you have a logger to detect knock. Tune when you reach the limit of your turbo.

 

[99gst_racer]

I'm running a 14b with water/meth injection. Previously, my charge temps were close to 200F by the end of the 1/4, with lots of knock through 3rd and 4th. With the injection, I see 160F charge temps at the top of 4th, little to no knock in 3rd, and mininal knock (less than 7 counts) in 4th. I ran a 12.25 @ 110 on water/meth and pump gas and a 12.12 @ 112 on race gas. A FMIC would cool the charge temps better than the water injection could, but if you're running pump gas, consider that a 50% water/meth setup (washer fluid) would cool the charge AND add octane.

What are you using to monitor those charge temps? And what is the ambient temp when you are seeing 160*?

 

[97Boost4u]

inless you are wanting to race in some stock appearing class, eventually you should upgrade to a decent(not ssautochrome) front mount. SMIC will do for now and even with the water injection it will stay cool but it will never flow as well as a spearco cored intercooler and it will have more pressure loss, also with a front mount u can eliminate alot of un-needed piping which will help with throttle response

 

[4wd-Eclipse]

More than a year since I installed my Aquamist single jet WI kit ... and it IS one of the best mods I have ever done in my car. I can see the EGT gauge DROOP more than 20 deg C at 20 psi boost when it is start injecting and it is ONLY injecting PURE water after a STREET 120 spearco FMIC.

 

[Steve93Talon]

What are you using to monitor those charge temps? And what is the ambient temp when you are seeing 160*?

Autometer dual channel peak/hold gauge. Ambient temp was about 70 degrees.

 

[99gst_racer]

Autometer dual channel peak/hold gauge. Ambient temp was about 70 degrees.

160* is pretty high man. Thats about 90*F over ambient.

I'm currently running a 24x12x3.5 FMIC and water injection. With just the FMIC alone, I see charge temps of 25* over ambient. On a 60* day, I'm registering about 85* at the throttle body, and that's not even using the water injection. I use the Nordskog (sp?) gauge.