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Fmic install

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NWHTanK

10+ Year Contributor
1,521
527
Apr 23, 2011
Odessa, Missouri
When u guys put a large Fmic in are you deleting the crash bar and mounts? With that stuff deleted are you doing any thing about bumper mounts under the headlights, or just letting it hang?
 
For me it is the bumper is basically hanging with the bolts no other support.
 
Really depends on the FMIC kit you buy. A lot of people modify the crash-bar itself so that it fits. Plenty of threads around here to look at and get some idea's on different FMIC setups.
 
I cut mine when i put my fmic on wasnt bad at all took a few cheap blades, done, looks and fits great, cutter tool 15 bucks blades about 8 around 25 bucks spent, and i kept my stock crash beam.
 
I've seen huge FMIC and the mounts not removed. I would either cut yours which is a total PITA to save some cash or I would go with this 150 dollar option. JMF '90-'94 Race Bumper (1G DSM) : JNZ Tuning

You can let the bumper hang, though it looks like complete ass .

I dont think that is hepfull. I have a 2g. I would agree that it might look like ass.
 
My car has the crash beam removed. The bumper is on with the 5 bolts in front and 2 on both sides under the headlights. You cant even tell the bumper support isn't there anymore. The only thing that bothers me is the sag at the bottom of the intercooler.
 
If I remember correctly the 2g crash bar is not solid iron like on the 1gs. With that said. I modified my 1g crash beam with a heavy duty 7" Angle Grinder from Harbor Frieght. It made good work of the metal and I was done with 30 minutes. This gave me slightly more protection than the mock bar from JNZ/Dejon Tool. I still could hang my bumper and I had adequate room from my FMIC.

Just a note, cuttin a crash bar reduces it's effectiveness. So if you make an impact in the front you will VERY likely total out the car. And do greater damage to the FMIC, radiator and possible the engine/transmission it self.

7" Angle Grinder
 
If I remember correctly the 2g crash bar is not solid iron like on the 1gs. With that said. I modified my 1g crash beam with a heavy duty 7" Angle Grinder from Harbor Frieght. It made good work of the metal and I was done with 30 minutes. This gave me slightly more protection than the mock bar from JNZ/Dejon Tool. I still could hang my bumper and I had adequate room from my FMIC.

Just a note, cuttin a crash bar reduces it's effectiveness. So if you make an impact in the front you will VERY likely total out the car. And do greater damage to the FMIC, radiator and possible the engine/transmission it self.

7" Angle Grinder

The other Sean is right, the 2G crash bar is just plastic.

If you have a FMIC your only option is to modify the crash bar or remove it completely so the effectiveness of a cut support is a bit of a moot point. Either way you're screwed if you have a front impact.

It's really up to you whether you want to cut up the crash bar or not. It really isn't that hard to do, just takes some time and patience to get your cuts right.

On my '99 i ran without the crash bar when i first did my PR FMIC install. I have since gone back and modified the crash bar because the bumper was definitely starting to sag without it.
 
The bumper will sag under the headlights without the support.

Yes, there is tabs that hold the bumper to the support under the headlights. I destroyed mine when pulling my bumper cover off and the is a "small" gap under my headlights. It's not really that noticeable but it is present. If you want to keep your support unbolt the support beams from under the car and pull the bumper cover off and the support as a whole. This way you can safely take off the clips that are under the headlights without destroying the tabs. I had to lose my fog lights also as well as inner bumper trimming to fit over the FMIC. I have the VRSF kit, other kits might have different methods of install but the same rules apply when removing the bumper and/or support.
 
I wish it was plastic. At least on my 95, it's fiberglass. A total PITA to cut as it melts and creates these nasty cobwebs of glass. I had to hold off until I could get a respirator, as I couldn't even get one cut done without my lungs burning. Grrr. Definitely some saggage, although it's not too bad.
 
I think the crash bar is miss under stood. They are only good for about 6mph. What good is that. Well if u were to park your car in a parking lot and some one were park in front or even parallel parking. Were to hit your dsm thier would be lttle resitance for them to cause major damge. The crash bar has little effect the faster you go. So if you are racing on the track dump it.
 
I wish it was plastic. At least on my 95, it's fiberglass. A total PITA to cut as it melts and creates these nasty cobwebs of glass. I had to hold off until I could get a respirator, as I couldn't even get one cut done without my lungs burning. Grrr. Definitely some saggage, although it's not too bad.

oops you're correct, it is fiberglass. Excuse my mistake, i seem to have inherited my wife's pregnancy brain.

I used an air saw and a cut-off wheel, wasn't that bad of a job as i remember; has been a few years since the install.
 
I think the crash bar is miss under stood. They are only good for about 6mph. What good is that. Well if u were to park your car in a parking lot and some one were park in front or even parallel parking. Were to hit your dsm thier would be lttle resitance for them to cause major damge. The crash bar has little effect the faster you go. So if you are racing on the track dump it.

This is true, but if your car is going to see DD use, or even be parked at Walmart, I would definitely try to fit the crash bar in. In a REAL crash, you're in trouble either way. But when the jerk in the Expedition backs into your car at McDonalds, you'll be thankful for that bit of fiberglass.
 
I think the crash bar is miss under stood. They are only good for about 6mph. What good is that. Well if u were to park your car in a parking lot and some one were park in front or even parallel parking. Were to hit your dsm thier would be lttle resitance for them to cause major damge. The crash bar has little effect the faster you go. So if you are racing on the track dump it.

You are right. But it is a matter of personal opinion of keeping it or not. I will say I ditched my support knowing that it wouldn't do nothing if I were to hit anything over 10mph. I upgraded my insurance shortly after but my DSM is my only car.
 
I have VRSF short route intercooler and decided to remove my crash bar. I had to delete my fog lights because the intercooler mounting brackets line up with the factory fog light bracket holes so no modifying or drilling is needed. The only modifying needed is cutting out a piece from the radiator support so the upper intercooler pipe can pass through. Its a nice setup i recommend it.
 
Your going to waste minutes hacking up a piece of plastic/fiberglass (whatever it is) and expect to still function like it was supposed to in its original form?
The little thin piece that will be leftover will do NOTHING now that it's mid section is gone. Just remove the whole crash beam but keep the support mounts to help the cover keep its sturdiness.
 
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