flashable ecu vs dsmlink for a 300-350hp daily driver

[jof_03]

i have been contemplating on this two for quite sometime, and i have read in the forums for both. but im still having a debate on what would be better for me. i am not a tuner or know how,a nd i would be wanting to boost maz at 20-22lbs daily driven, i just want to make between300-350hp, with no problesm. right now my engine management is only an safc and it suck as hell, and my gas milegae lately has been pretty prety bad. i get a full tank and usually i get maybe around 175miles before my gas light comes out but lately at around 75-80miles it comes out. but i want to know who has used both and what they would recommend for me and in the end how much total, thanks

 

[Chicken Patty]

ECMLink is a lot more user friendly, but to me EcuFlash is much cheaper.

However, you have a 95. Because flashable ECU's are only 98-99 you will need to run an inverted CAS like installing a 6 bolt CAS for example. If not you'll have random pops and misfires. For your setup. I think getting Link V3 Lite is probably your best option.

 

[jof_03]

thanks, appreciate that, now for the v3 vs v3 lite, only difference is the speed density. does that elimintae having a maf on my setup. and for the mhi e16g that i currently will be installing, would i be able to maximize the power of that 16g using 720cc injectors? i bought the injectors here at dsm classified used, but sent it to RC engineering, so hopefully that will also help me. what will be my realistic goal for hp on my setup right now currently i will be installing

MHI e3 16g
720cc denso flow tested matched by rc
hks 264/272 cams
fpr with rail 6an ss fittings
dsm link v3 or dsm v3 lite
aem stage 1 meth kit bought used

without the meth, i really want me to daily drive at around 300-350 on 93 octane at 20lbs boost

 

[bigbird94]

I ran SD on V3 lite

 

[Chicken Patty]

thanks, appreciate that, now for the v3 vs v3 lite, only difference is the speed density. does that elimintae having a maf on my setup. and for the mhi e16g that i currently will be installing, would i be able to maximize the power of that 16g using 720cc injectors? i bought the injectors here at dsm classified used, but sent it to RC engineering, so hopefully that will also help me. what will be my realistic goal for hp on my setup right now currently i will be installing

MHI e3 16g
720cc denso flow tested matched by rc
hks 264/272 cams
fpr with rail 6an ss fittings
dsm link v3 or dsm v3 lite
aem stage 1 meth kit bought used

without the meth, i really want me to daily drive at around 300-350 on 93 octane at 20lbs boost

Here is the product comparison page. This will tell you all the differences.

prodcompare [ECMTuning - wiki]

As far as a realistic power goal. I think low 300's on straight pump gas is definitely possible on a stock motor. I tuned a EVO III 16G on straight 93 pump gas once that made 337whp at about 25psi. Stock motor, just had cams and supporting mods pretty much like you. I personally made 307whp on a small 16G and a bone stock motor. Just fuel mods, FMIC, Intake, TBE. Installed an AFC and a logger and did my tuning with that. My car is AWD and I was able to achieve that power level at just 20psi.

Just throwing some #'s out there based on cars I've tuned and can say I've had first hand experience with. To me, that's what counts the most.

So to make it short, those injectors, V3 Lite and a 16G will get you the 300 daily driven wheel horsepower you are looking for.

 

[jof_03]

Ok thanks, I actually just ordered the v3 instead of the v3 lite, as far as motor, you say that's realistic for stock, I had my engine rebuilt and have wiseco pistons eagle Rods, had JAM 1mm os valves, crower valve springs retainers, with that I can increase boost and I don't have to think about the life of my engine right? I would want my boost at 20-22lbs daily driven . I will actually get it tuned by Banishedmunk maybe this week, hopefully over the numbers that I want.

As far as the fuel pump rewire, is that a must with my mods and my goals, I have the 255lph Walbro that was installed maybe 2 Gara ago but never got to install the rewire..

 

[Total Eclipse]

The rewire will help ensure you maintain a consistant fuel pressure and is well worth the small amount of time required to install it. When tuning, you definately want consistancy out of everything!

Nate

 

[Chicken Patty]

^^ couldn't agree more.

As far as your engine. It should not have any problem not only running that boost, but making the power you want. I stress and over stress to all my customers to always check the following:

-boost leaks, and fix them all!
-fresh plugs (spare set at the time of the tune session is always good to have)
-plug gap
-optimal performance of fuel system. (I.e. clean fuel filter, clean injectors)

Believe it or not the above things can make it or break it during a tune session! What plugs are you going to run or are already running?

 

[jof_03]

Awesome, this site is rally helpful, one more thing since you mentioned the spark plugs and gap, I've read here when I was browsing that if you are going to up ## boost, he galling on the spark plugs should be closer, right now I gapped mine at 28, what is recommended when you are doing boost between 20-25psi, will 28 be enough?

And I forgot another one, I am still running a stock 1g bov, non crushed, there are articles here sayig not to crush, crush or just get an aftermarket or an evo9 bov, will the 1g I uncrushed hold the 20psi on ## guys experience or should I already think of getting aftermarket ones, I really don't want to get the knock off ones as I'd rather keep the stock 1g, and the 1g is actually an upgrade from my 2g plastics 1

 

[Chicken Patty]

Awesome, this site is rally helpful, one more thing since you mentioned the spark plugs and gap, I've read here when I was browsing that if you are going to up ## boost, he galling on the spark plugs should be closer, right now I gapped mine at 28, what is recommended when you are doing boost between 20-25psi, will 28 be enough?

And I forgot another one, I am still running a stock 1g bov, non crushed, there are articles here sayig not to crush, crush or just get an aftermarket or an evo9 bov, will the 1g I uncrushed hold the 20psi on ## guys experience or should I already think of getting aftermarket ones, I really don't want to get the knock off ones as I'd rather keep the stock 1g, and the 1g is actually an upgrade from my 2g plastics 1

Most people that want to stay along the lines of stock BOV just upgrade to a EVO BOV. I would consider that in the near future. Are you recirculating?

As far as plug and gap, I found on pump gas for your boost levels the BPR7ES to be the best plugs and with a gap of .025" to work best. Ran that setup for years without a hiccup. The thing with gapping is you want to be able to run the highest gap you can without blowing out spark. So you can try .027". If you don't blow out spark like that, try a little higher and so forth until it blows out spark. Once it does, just close it up a tad and call it a day. I think BPR7ES gapped at .025" is a great starting point. Just go from there.

 

[jof_03]

I still have recirculating. Ayt I'll make sure I do all the maintenance stuff. appreciate man thanks

 

[Chicken Patty]

I still have recirculating. Ayt I'll make sure I do all the maintenance stuff. appreciate man thanks

Anytime bro. Post up if you have any questions.

 

[honda_burner]

The nice thing about the Evo 9 "diverter valve" as they call it, is it fits right into the stock piping on a 2g. If your already set up with a 1g, I would stick with it.