My quest to 300 H.P clean daily driver

[Norcalgsx707]

Okay so I'm on a mission to pull out 300 horsepower and still have a reliable daily driver, heres the setup so far.

1. Dsmlink v3 and Big Evo III 16g
2.hallman boost controller
3.Injen Intake
4.680cc injectors
5.afpr
6.255hp walbro
7.1g uncrushed bov
8.translab shift kit
9.ipt end clutch kit

Heres whats I plan on getting withing a week or two
1.srs exhaust system
2.wideband mxt-l
3.Fmic

Now heres my question what should I do to prepare my engine for all this stuff just keep everything like it is, or do the catch can method, I wanna make sure the engine remains in good shape at 300 hp any advice, anything I should adjust,clean up, or get rid of, recirculate,prep, ect??? also my goal is to have a monster off the line I really dont care about doing 180 mph I want a dominant 0-60 time

 

[Norcalgsx707]

okay I've decided to go fmic finiding one for cheap is another whole other animal

 

[PPiechocki]

do a speed density conversion since you already have link, eliminate the stock BOV and get bigger uicp. find an afpr rated for e85 and get the tune. fuel economy will suffer and it's harder to find, but they can run more aggressive timing and you'll see significant gains

okay I've decided to go fmic finiding one for cheap is another whole other animal

CXRacing has a fmic kit for pretty cheap.

What are you going for as far as your clutch? If you wanna be quick off the line, I'd recommend an ACT 2600 and lightened flywheel. worth the money

 

[kbiker76]

do a speed density conversion since you already have link, eliminate the stock BOV and get bigger uicp. find an afpr rated for e85 and get the tune. fuel economy will suffer and it's harder to find, but they can run more aggressive timing and you'll see significant gains



CXRacing has a fmic kit for pretty cheap.

What are you going for as far as your clutch? If you wanna be quick off the line, I'd recommend an ACT 2600 and lightened flywheel. worth the money

He said he was looking at getting a high stall converter so he wont need to look for clutches since he's an automatic.
He also doesnt need to go e85 for 300 horse. That is easily attainable on pump gas with the e3 16g he has.

OP: your on the right path wideband and tuning solution would be the first things on my list then you can build off of that!
Id go with the VSRF front mount kit as well it is proven to be a good one and you can get them for a good price here on tuners as they are a vendor.

 

[WES_393]

He said he was looking at getting a high stall converter so he wont need to look for clutches since he's an automatic.
He also doesnt need to go e85 for 300 horse. That is easily attainable on pump gas with the e3 16g he has.

Speed Density is also completely unnecessary. I didn't even catch the clutch part at first.

Not to mention CX Racing and Punishment sell the exact same FMIC kit, but CX charges $50 more.

But it's obvious the OP would rather spend $400 for some noisy cams than $365 on a half-decent intercooler. Even though everyone in this thread who's made over 300hp has advised the complete opposite. So what more can you do.

 

[clipto]

300whp so easy this is over rated thread . Anything you buy more then stock besides a fuel pump, bigger injectors, fmic, exhaust, wideband, boost controller and boost gauge and tuning device is it. Easy way turbo wise is a 16g. Anything more then that is just extra.GG..

 

[TurboDSM90]

You guys are forgetting two crucial elements in the original posters setup.

1) Location. California only sells 91 octane fuel. Lucas came down here and found the cars "down 20 whp" compared to the ones he tunes up in Washington.

2)Its an automatic. An automatic can soak up another 10-20% in hp alone depending on the converter and fluid ran.

So 300hp crank may be more possible on straight pump gas here in Cali, but to the wheels? Its gonna take work.

i advise a methanol injection kit.

 

[clipto]

Well atleast for me and here in washignton we have 92 oct. I had these exact mods. walbro 255, 550cc injectors, small 16g, fmic, exhaust, safc. Everything else was stock on the car. I also was an auto and all I did just leaned it out to 11:1 a/f ratio and about 22ish psi made 300whp. he will be close enough is what I am saying all this cam talk and torque converter and etc etc is rather not needed to get super closer or even hit his mark. I just don't want all these crazy thoughts put into peoples head to make this kinda hp on these cars. These cars been out a long time and one of the main questionings is how to get 300hp or 350. If you atleast start with those things I listed above except I would tottaly never get the safc worst mistake I ever bought sence I had ecmlink but all those parts used cost me no more used under $1000 or about that. But ya depending on specific places like I know columbia only has like 89 oct? You will need to compromise with other mods. My main point is not to go to crazy with all these extra things to make such a small goal number. I understand if you wanna make more power later sure get cams, highter torque coverter for longer stalls to build more boost launching or what not. But in the end I also don't wanna confuse people with simple elegence stock these cars can put out decent power and run fast numbers. So hopefully this will help people see when they go to mod they don't need arm and leg to make this kinda power. Not to mention the stock motor is more then fine for this power as long as you do maintenance. Unless your pulling the motor to refreshing the bearings or what not at some point when stuff gets bad I wouldn't touch it. I seen tons people in the 150k-200k miles boosting running strong making all kinds of power. Here this just in a guy made 272whp on a 14b more then half way to 300whp. Simple elegant setup. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/459466-put-my-tsi-dyno-272hp-270tq.html

 

[WES_393]

300whp so easy this is over rated thread .

Glad I'm not completely alone.

I just don't want all these crazy thoughts put into peoples head to make this kinda hp on these cars.

Exactly. Somehow these 300-350hp threads get onto the subject of 2150cc injectors and Q16 race fuel.

You guys are forgetting two crucial elements in the original posters setup.

Both valid points. I hadn't considered the hp loss of the Auto trans. But factors like 91 octane fuel are the exact reason why I say a quality FMIC is far more important than bump-sticks. We also deal with 91 octane gas up here along with 6,000ft elevation. So 300hp with any 16g can definitely be a challenge, but it's far from impossible.

 

[Norcalgsx707]

Speed Density is also completely unnecessary. I didn't even catch the clutch part at first.

Not to mention CX Racing and Punishment sell the exact same FMIC kit, but CX charges $50 more.

But it's obvious the OP would rather spend $400 for some noisy cams than $365 on a half-decent intercooler. Even though everyone in this thread who's made over 300hp has advised the complete opposite. So what more can you do.

After researching cams you must get new valve springs and thats more cash so I just want the FMIC for now guess Ill have to wait for my cams later on down the road, I figured it would be easier to do them while the head is off thats why I chose them first

You guys are forgetting two crucial elements in the original posters setup.

1) Location. California only sells 91 octane fuel. Lucas came down here and found the cars "down 20 whp" compared to the ones he tunes up in Washington.

2)Its an automatic. An automatic can soak up another 10-20% in hp alone depending on the converter and fluid ran.

So 300hp crank may be more possible on straight pump gas here in Cali, but to the wheels? Its gonna take work.

i advise a methanol injection kit.

What he said

 

[98_tsi_]

I just made 272hp and 270tq with a 14b on 16psi at the dyno.

Mods are:
14b on 16psi
2 inch downpipe to a 3 inch catless mid pipe.
3 inch cat back
hks ssqv 4 bov
hard piping
evo 8 front mount

I turned the boost down to 14psi I made 250hp. Stock air box and intake

 

[Norcalgsx707]

Dsmlink or no u got a hybrid or some s***

Honestly if you think this forum is overrated don't post im not trippin im new here and trying to figure the best way to make my car solid, so please keep your negative comments to yourself, I'm just trying to build a daily that is not going to be in the shop every week, I think if my head is comming off it would be smart to get the cams installed now and possibly some springs and go with a cheap evo intercooler correct me if im wrong? I mean why half ass a job I believe in getting it done

now heres another quick question will a 20g benfiet me more at 300 horsepower or will I deff need to do some internals, can a stock block handle a 20g and would a 20g be advisable on a daily

 

[Chriztopher]

You have some stage II upgrades on your list but you are missing some stage I steps. Follow the upgrade sequence on this forum and you will have your goal.
Get a boost gauge first.
Do you plan to run an aftermarket intake?
Not a bad choice on exhaust, but take a look at Thermal – similar but deeper IMO.

 

[Norcalgsx707]

I want to get something next it's just my money is getting low I just had someone offer me a hi stall converter I know that makes the trans better it says that it is equavalent to 50-100 hp on the autos not sure that my internals could handle that as a daily though

 

[clipto]

Here is what a higher stall converter does. You really don't need it for that power level as I have seen and driven auto dsms. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/automatic-tranny/205909-how-does-high-stall-torque-converter-work.html Best auto tranny upgrade I did was a better bigger trans cooler.

 

[98_tsi_]

Who was being negative? I was just sharing my dyno number to give you a Idea of how easy it would be to hit 300hp....didn't mean to offen ya and I daily my tsi everyday, runs like a top!

 

[clipto]

I want to get something next it's just my money is getting low I just had someone offer me a hi stall converter I know that makes the trans better it says that it is equavalent to 50-100 hp on the autos not sure that my internals could handle that as a daily though

Made about 380whp on evo3 16g on e85 stock rods blew there so dinky and tiny. Yes 20g will make it easier to get 300hp but will loose alot more spool time then with the 16g. Like stated about you really don't need alot for a 300whp goal. Check this out you can see people with 16g's and what they got. There are some people with alot of stuff but most of it is not necessary. DSM Dyno Challenge - Big_16g

 

[Norcalgsx707]

Who was being negative? I was just sharing my dyno number to give you a Idea of how easy it would be to hit 300hp....didn't mean to offen ya and I daily my tsi everyday, runs like a top!

Wasn't you I appreciate your comment thats crazy you got 270+whp off those mods hopefully I can get this auto to scream of the line thsts all I really want

So what a stall converter does is gives you like a 30% torque increase off the line lets you launch at 80% torque as oppsed to 50%, clipto I was thinking about installing evo 8 pistons to solidfy my build and make sure I 'don't run into problems others here have said no though

 

[Cdc1221]

The weak point of a 7 bolt dsm engine is the rods. Evo rods and pistons arent that much stronger. Theyre only good for about 400 hp.

 

[Norcalgsx707]

So whats the best way to handle the weak rod syndrome

 

[Cdc1221]

Enjoy making 300-350 hp while saving for forged internals. Keep your tune conservative, meaning no knock and dont max that turbo out. Sure you could probably push it further, but after killing two engines inside a year, im of the opinion its not good pushing them to their limits, especially if its your daily driver

 

[Norcalgsx707]

but if I got forged internals now I could play around with what ever h.p I want from 300-4oo correct? Im asking because my car is in the shop with the head off, I just want to cover all bases in that being a strong engine all the way through

 

[bigbird94]

To the OP,

Forget the engine mods, forget piston, rods, cams, springs etc. Forget the 20g too. For your hp goals you do not need any of this stuff.

There are people making a lot more power than you want and holding up just fine on stock 7 bolt motors.

Leave the catch can alone.

Buy these parts, in order.

Different rims
Innovate LC1 Wideband
VRSF FMIC
3" TBE
SD Conversion

Then get behind the keyboard and read everything you can about tuning with ecmlink.

The BSE is a good idea but if you are going that far you should just pull the engine IMO so be ready.

 

[Cdc1221]

Or more. Its simple. Your rods have t least 100k miles of stress and fatique on them, evo rods will have roughly the same andprobably worse because most evo owners beat them to death. Are you willing to sacrifice your engine by putting further stress and fatigue on those rods

 

[T is for TURBO]

but if I got forged internals now I could play around with what ever h.p from 300-4oo correct?

Forged internals at that power won't even bat an eye with a good tune. So you're golden, ponyboy

 

[Norcalgsx707]

To the OP,

Forget the engine mods, forget piston, rods, cams, springs etc. Forget the 20g too. For your hp goals you do not need any of this stuff.

There are people making a lot more power than you want and holding up just fine on stock 7 bolt motors.

Leave the catch can alone.

Buy these parts, in order.

Different rims
Innovate LC1 Wideband
VRSF FMIC
3" TBE
SD Conversion




Then get behind the keyboard and read everything you can about tuning with ecmlink.

The BSE is a good idea but if you are going that far you should just pull the engine IMO so be ready.

Lol I got the wideband on the way and I deffiently need some new rims might net me like 20h.p, anyways i do have the chance to get my hands on a greedy 24v r spec for $150 I think Im going to pass though, purchased a vrsf fmic with bov today think Im pretty much set up next up a downpipe