300-350hp Rebuild...

[91TurboTalonFWD]

Ok, so im tired of messing with the old engine blah blah blah and im planing on a rebuild here in the next couple of months i want to be at about 300-350 horsepower at the crank what are my options? point me in a direction somebody!

 

[poonman]

ok first of we need to know if its going to be a daily driver or track

 

[91TurboTalonFWD]

sorry i forgot to mention but its going to be a daily driver and maybe raced on weekends sometimes but not too hard

 

[SonySlave]

A stock 6-bolt with a Mitsu MLS headgasket or Cometic headgasket with ARPs would be more than enough to hold 350HP easily. But if you really wanted to go forged, you could go with a Ross/Eagle setup, but that is a setup for holding 550hp+... Way more than you need. It's all about tuning...

 

[poonman]

well bro, first step is air, turbo, MAF change to wide band and a nice stand alone. if you shoot for a 300hp mark i wouldnt worrie to much about internals.

The "6-bolt" engine on all Talons built before April 1992 refers to the number of bolts connecting the flywheel to the crankshaft. All 1G Talons built after 4/92 received a freer reving "7-bolt" engine borrowed from the 1992 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution's lighter rods and 7-bolt crankshaft. The 6-bolt engines are prized for their impressive ability to withstand large amounts of boost due to the more robust combination of connecting rods and crankshaft. 25-30 PSI is not uncommon, and 6-bolt engines have been known to handle 500+ hp using the stock internals. The 1G "7-bolt" engines suffer from crankwalk no more than the 1G "6-bolt" engines. The majority of crankwalk cases that affected many "7-bolt" turbo Talon engines were found later in the revised 2G "7-bolt" motors found in 1995-1997 model year Talons.

BUTTT how many mile are on the engine now?

 

[91TurboTalonFWD]

i bought the engine off of a guy and he told me it had 120k miles so 120 i guess and i have to repair a knock and ive got to find out what it is and i think its rod bearing but cant say anything till i get it started and check it out!

 

[JayRolla]

6 bolt, 1g big rods, 2g pistons and a 14b would be good for that power.

 

[91TurboTalonFWD]

ok so looks like all i need is rods and 2g pistons... any particular brand of rods? and where could i find 2g pistons?

 

[CanadianTSi]

A Totally stock untocuhed 1G motor will handle 350whp for years and years.

 

[91TurboTalonFWD]

well that puts a smile on my face haha i know i have to change the head gasket so should i go with stock gasket or a mls one or what? should i also get the arps?

 

[toyotaturbo]

well that puts a smile on my face haha i know i have to change the head gasket so should i go with stock gasket or a mls one or what? should i also get the arps?

Go with a Mitsubishi multilayer steel headgasket and some ARP headstuds, and your setup is golden for the horsepower you've asked about.

 

[96gstdsm]

well that puts a smile on my face haha i know i have to change the head gasket so should i go with stock gasket or a mls one or what? should i also get the arps?

If your going to go with the mitsu mls gasket, make sure you have the block decked and the head resurfaced. I just made the mistake to not have the head resurfaced at the time the block was decked, and 100 miles later it starts billowing white smoke. So I am going with a composite for less worries about the seal. The stock oem composite head gasket with arp head studs should be good for a pretty good amount of power and boost. I would have preferred the mls one, but oh well. I personally know people who have run over 28 psi on the stock head gasket with some arp's.

 

[oldman]

ok first of we need to know if its going to be a daily driver or track

Do you see how OP's usage of proper grammar, punctuation and caps fell apart immediately after your post? The actions of regular members can greatly affect newbies, try and set good examples.

 

[91TurboTalonFWD]

So have the block decked and the head resurfaced and run a MLS gasket? Which bigger rods should i go with? or can i just stick to the stock ones?

 

[kcossette]

big rods refer to the early 6 bolt rods, if your engine is a 6 bolt i believe it should have big rods. you just need to machine the small end to get it to fit with a 2g piston which any machine shop can do for you

 

[Eclipse98_RS]

300 hp is easily attainable. You might be able to get by with only upgrading the turbo/tranny/clutch to make that much. Of course you would need some kind of managment like an S-AFCII. Just promise you wont be a complete slapnuts and run crazy boost on stock everything. I had a buddy burn his tranny out of his 92 Talon TSi because he didnt upgrade anything and he cranked the boost. He sold it 100 miles before the car took a crap. Perfect timing for him, bad timing for my buddy that bought it. If you are indeed going for a rebuild definitly take the time/money to replace everything. It may be expensive, but you will thank yourself in the longrun. Forged internals/different headgasket/ARP studs are all good things to do.

 

[polen]

well bro, first step is air, turbo, MAF change to wide band and a nice stand alone. if you shoot for a 300hp mark i wouldnt worrie to much about internals. The "6-bolt" engine on all Talons built before April 1992 refers to the number of bolts connecting the flywheel to the crankshaft. All 1G Talons built after 4/92 received a freer reving "7-bolt" engine borrowed from the 1992 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution's lighter rods and 7-bolt crankshaft. The 6-bolt engines are prized for their impressive ability to withstand large amounts of boost due to the more robust combination of connecting rods and crankshaft. 25-30 PSI is not uncommon, and 6-bolt engines have been known to handle 500+ hp using the stock internals. The 1G "7-bolt" engines suffer from crankwalk no more than the 1G "6-bolt" engines. The majority of crankwalk cases that affected many "7-bolt" turbo Talon engines were found later in the revised 2G "7-bolt" motors found in 1995-1997 model year Talons. BUTTT how many mile are on the engine now?

Best advice in thread so far

 

[mnetwork]

well bro, first step is air, turbo, MAF change to wide band and a nice stand alone. if you shoot for a 300hp mark i wouldnt worrie to much about internals. The "6-bolt" engine on all Talons built before April 1992 refers to the number of bolts connecting the flywheel to the crankshaft. All 1G Talons built after 4/92 received a freer reving "7-bolt" engine borrowed from the 1992 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution's lighter rods and 7-bolt crankshaft. The 6-bolt engines are prized for their impressive ability to withstand large amounts of boost due to the more robust combination of connecting rods and crankshaft. 25-30 PSI is not uncommon, and 6-bolt engines have been known to handle 500+ hp using the stock internals. The 1G "7-bolt" engines suffer from crankwalk no more than the 1G "6-bolt" engines. The majority of crankwalk cases that affected many "7-bolt" turbo Talon engines were found later in the revised 2G "7-bolt" motors found in 1995-1997 model year Talons. BUTTT how many mile are on the engine now?

Nice wikipedia quote,

 

[thekellbeast]

1g rods, 2g pistons. If your goals are 350 crank, I would go with some sort of 16g just because it would be easier to hit that with more turbo. Plus on a 1g they still look stock as hell. Hell, you could get away with running tons of stock parts. 1g intake manifold, ported 2g exhaust, evo O2 housing.

 

[oldman]

Nice wikipedia quote,

Link?

 

[lccynmbr13]

Link?

hhaha burn

 

[oldman]

Ok I found it, should have known since that was the only part of his posts where he actually used proper grammar.

poonman, it's not acceptable to copy other's material and present it as your own, make sure you give credit where credit is due. I'll fix it for you this time so you know what to do next time.

 

[poonman]

The info i copied was for a fast responce for the guy to understand things better about his engine, didint think it would of turned into this huge discussion.

And besides using other's information for another's gain is exactly what a forum is about, is it not?
But yes you are right, I should of put it into a quote box, just a lil tired at night when i get on here.

Nice to know though the money i spent at college should be used across the world for everyone to enjoy.

 

[91TurboTalonFWD]

Ok well i have a 6bolt so i have the bigger rods? but shit if you say a STOCK untouched 6bolt can hold 350hp for years then why put 2g pistons? why cant i just get the 16g and supporting mods and be good to go?

 

[dsm-onster]

You need to fid the source of that knock. It is entirely likely that you are confusing that noise w/ simple lifter tap.

As fora rebuild. You have everything right there in your engine bay for a 450 hp build. You have a6 bolt block and the lower compression 1g pistons are perfect for a "pump gas build". I wouldn't change a thing except source the noise and repair where neccesary. Don't spend the money for 2g pistons and the cost for the 1g rods to accept them. A set of arp head studs are all that is neccesary for a reliable 350 hp 6-bolt build. We have the luxury of wider head bolt holes in the block. That makes our stock head bolts wider and consequently manifest higher tensil strength (to prevent head gasket failure). ALSO, when running ARP head studs, these will be stronger than for the 7-bolt guys because of that larger diameter.

But, then again, I could just be partial. I've logged 52 lbs/min on the stock block and arps stud w/ a fel-pro composite (OEM) head gasket. This was w/ proper supporting bolt-ons, of course. It's not uncommon for folks to take the stock 1990-1991 blocks to 500whp.