flanges rusted together

[TimF]

So I had a day off today and dedicated it to my car. I started of my day by installing my boost/ wideband gauges. My next task was getting my cat back on. Well as you can tell by my title, the flanges from my stock cat back and my cat were rusted and pretty much look like one big flange. I could not for the life of me get them apart. I took nut splitter to the nuts and knocked them off, heated in up with a torch multiple times, and tried a cutting tool with a metal cutting blade. No luck. No before I take it to a exhaust shop is there anything else I can try to pry my lovely flanges apart before dumping the estimated 200 local shops already gave me. I need to keep the cat side intact until I can get a test pipe and toss the whole system

 

[mike96]

Is it safe to assume tat you have drooped the entire exhaust system to the ground to get it apart (down pipe and cat included)? If so then only two things I can think of would be is to soak it with something like PB blaster, WD40, or brake fluid then take a hammer and chisel to it. If that doesn't work then try loading it in someones truck and take it to an exhaust shop to see what they can do with it. They may only charge you $20 - $30 with it out of the car if all they are doing is getting it apart.

 

[Gysgt Guy]

Mine was pretty much rusted shut in the same spot. Used some liquid wrench, a massive rubber mallet, and some memories of ex's and broke it free . Just don't be scared to give it a nice thump!

 

[99gst_racer]

One of these works excellent for splitting and separating things like that:

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Although, if I were in your shoes, I'd pony up the $40 to get the test pipe now, then remove the entire exhaust system as one piece, and install the new one.

 

[Zdrummer15]

I had that same problem before and I just decided to wait until I had a full turbo-back exhaust. It just wasn't worth the trouble of separating the flanges when I knew I was going to be replacing the whole thing eventually anyway.

 

[TimF]

I figured I could at least get the catback on for now and do the rest later. I cant find a test pipe online thats 3in for a awd(only megans ) only 3in fwd ones, So i figure I will have to have a shop make on. Other than it being louder than all hell, and some performance loss, would there be any other issues if I drop my whole exhaust, install the DP and catback and drive it with that gap to a shop to have them make a test pipe? And I know To i would need to get my o2 sensor moved, and was wondering does it have to be after the test pipe or can I stick it right in the test pipe. I dont want to mess up my sensor placement. I was going to get a wideband drilled into my downpipe.

 

[Bud92gsx]

Bro..Don't mess around with taking off individual parts..Just get the whole system..Unbolt the o2 housing..And drop the whole rest of the exhaust and replace it..

Work smarter, not harder..

 

[Zdrummer15]

What downpipe are you planning on running? Most aftermarket ones eliminate the cat already so there is no need for a separate test pipe (there will be no gap), so if you don't have one already just save yourself the trouble and get one that eliminates the cat.

 

[Bud92gsx]

The punishment racing ones have two options 1g with cat..2g deletes cat..

Could not find any on ebay that delete cat..

 

[DSM Jeff]

I run a Road Race downpipe which eliminates the cat and bolts up to the 'catback'. I keep my stock exhaust (1 piece) to put on to pass emissions.

 

[Bud92gsx]

I run a Road Race downpipe which eliminates the cat and bolts up to the 'catback'. I keep my stock exhaust (1 piece) to put on to pass emissions.

Link to this downpipe please..

 

[lil corb]

Link to this downpipe please..

Eclipse Exhaust System Upgrades

I have the long dp for AWD but I realize I should of bought the short one. Now I have to get my long dp cut up and purchase a highflow cat.

 

[TimF]

What downpipe are you planning on running? Most aftermarket ones eliminate the cat already so there is no need for a separate test pipe (there will be no gap), so if you don't have one already just save yourself the trouble and get one that eliminates the cat.

I got a ebay, its not long enough to eliminate the cat, And bud i did see a ebay DP that eliminates the cat but its a 2.75.

but like I stated I cant find a test pipe that is a 3in that fits a awd, well one that is not a megan or cost less then 60$

 

[Bud92gsx]

Eclipse Exhaust System Upgrades

I have the long dp for AWD but I realize I should of bought the short one. Now I have to get my long dp cut up and purchase a highflow cat.

No cat needed here..Will check out the DP..

Tim I want 3 inch..So I never have to upgrade again..Do it once do it right..Even if it's an ebay exhaust..

 

[Zdrummer15]

If you really just want a cheap test pipe, all you need is a length of 3" pipe with flanges on each end. As long as it's the same length as whatever cat you would run, it'll work. I would just go to an exhaust shop and have one made in your desired length if I were you. That's probably the cheapest option since it's only a small section of pipe.

 

[TimF]

thats why I asked other than being super loud would there be anything else that can go wrong if I drive to the shop with that gap inbetwen the downpipe and test pipe.

 

[Zdrummer15]

No, you'll be fine. Lot's of people run a cut out at the downpipe which when open, is like running an open downpipe.

 

[TimF]

ok one last question, when I get my sensor bungs welded is there a certain area that is better for it, i know the wide band needs to be at least 36 in from the turbo but im more worried about the sensor getting wet or would they be fine under the car

 

[Gysgt Guy]

Just have the bung welded anywhere on the top half of the pipe. 2 o'clock or 10 o'clock will work perfect

 

[Vladimir]

Well i usually use pb blaster for all my rust. Advance auto is like 5 bucks a can. You have to keep it soaked for the whole day, then beat at it a little so all the rust comes off. You can also spray rust off .

Good luck

 

[TimF]

Well i usually use pb blaster for all my rust. Advance auto is like 5 bucks a can. You have to keep it soaked for the whole day, then beat at it a little so all the rust comes off. You can also spray rust off .

Good luck

i tried that, we sprayed it down allot with penatrating oil and wd-40. I didnt beat tho. Im proboby just going to drop it all and run it w/o the cat till I can have a shop make a testpipe

Just have the bung welded anywhere on the top half of the pipe. 2 o'clock or 10 o'clock will work perfect

ok I was not sure if there was enough space to have it up there

 

[mike96]

Just have the bung welded anywhere on the top half of the pipe. 2 o'clock or 10 o'clock will work perfect

Yea I did that once on a GST, turned out the o2 sensor was about 1/4"away from the driveshaft. So you might want to fit the DP and take a look before you have anything welded on. But that was on a 2G, not sure how much differance the 1G's are for exhaust clearance.

 

[TimF]

To late I just got that done. Its cost 10$ but they leaked weld on the inside of the pipe and now its stuck there.

 

[GSLENK]

I just finished doing something like that (chiseling the stock DP from cat +cat back) everything was seized together solid. I had to grind off the head of the bolt. then I used a huge chisel and hammer, that got the DP seperated from the catback. all I have to do for factory DP return is weld a 3" flange to the factory DP, then It will bolt back up the the cat that I reflanged to 3".

Trust me it will seem like they are one solid piece of metal. they are not. they can be seperated. 99gst is on to something...

 

[95AWD6Bolt]

To late I just got that done. Its cost 10$ but they leaked weld on the inside of the pipe and now its stuck there.

Until you start making crazy ridiculous horsepower, which very, very few do, this wont matter.