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2G Fixing Caster?

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lucid15

10+ Year Contributor
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Oct 10, 2008
Portland, Oregon
Back in January i hit a patch of black ice and hit a curb going relatively slow ~3-5 MPG at best, hitting only my front right rim. Scuffed it up pretty bad and ended up having to replace the wheel bearing after noticinh some noise going 40+ MPH.

After taking it in to schwab to get an alignment the tech said i had some caster that was out of alignment. Whats the best way to go about fixing this, as its only one side? Is there a specific part that would make sense to try replacing first, based on my story, or is the only way to replace all steering/suspension components on that right side?

In another note, i am putting on a Coilover system (D2) in just a few weeks, so i would like to purchase all relevant parts i can for precautionary purposes to get this all fixed at once.

Any input would be greatly appreciated, and let me know if there are anymore questions i can answer to better help answer the question, thanks again!
 

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The only things that I've seen that can affect caster is the compression arm and the upper control arm ball join position. You can't adjust caster on its own. Early compression arms had a different bushing design that allowed equal caster, where the late 2g's came with a bushing that had caster 2-3* apart between the two sides. It can be read about here. It looks like new OEM compression arms have this fixed so caster is equal between the sides.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/resolved-2g-caster-changing-it.176057/

In regards to the upper ball joint, my SPC control arms have an adjustable ball joint that I can adjust caster with. Maybe if the OEM arm was bent in such a way the ball join moved positions, it could change caster.
 
hmmm interesting. The upper ball joints im going with, dont allow to fix caster unfortunately. Do you think that by flipping the passenger bushing on the control arm could work? Seeing that it increases caster by 1, this theoretically should get my right caster within .02 of spec of my left, correct? Or am i mis-understanding?

Is this the part i could be potentially replacing? http://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=25478

Or is it this one? http://www.streettunedmotorsports.com/parts/oem_dsm_2g_front_lower_curved_control_arm_mr296291.htm

Im guessing the latter.
 
I hit a coyote cruising down the freeway late at night awhile back. Did a bunch of damage, more than I thought could happen from the scrawny thing & bent my compression arm & screwed up my caster & alignment. I bought the harbor freight 10 ton port-a-power ram and blocked it between the two ends and bent it back. All is good now & caster is the same on both sides. I just measured from the ball joint center to the mounting bushing and "rammed" it back till both arms had the same measurement. Did this with it on the car also.
 
The latter. If you do want to replace it, I'd recommend you get a front knuckle kit instead of just buying the arm. Much cheaper option.

But, as John said, there's nothing really to worry about. As long as you can get toe in check, you'll be fine.
Hmm ok, the only problem i have with it is it pulls pretty significantly to the right going above 45mph, which is pretty annoying for a DD.
 
Caster assists steering return it's not gonna cause the car to pull unless it's an extreme case. General rule for daily driven cars is no more than 1 deg. of cross camber/caster. Also 80-90% of pulls are tire related.
 
Sorry about the late response. I would recommend getting under the car with a tape measure to figure out what is different left to right. Generally, the upper control arm (UCA) has less than 1/3 the load taken by the LCA... so I would focus on the compression LCA & it's mounting.

I have used chains/straps and to tug on a suspension. Caution... I have seen a few "funniest videos" of not-so-bright people tugging with chains/straps and doing more damage. That said, suspensions are extremely robust when loaded properly.

As mentioned, caster is not a huge deal. There may be a bit different steering torque left/right, or pull/drift on a cambered-highway. Biggest thing is to understand what is bent. then go from there
 
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