First log ever. Sorting out idle

[Guilty1s]

Got done spending the day boost leak testing and fixing on my brand new rebuild. Now this has 0 miles. I am also just did an AWD swap and have to run open O2 housing cause I don’t have my exhaust to put on. I was wanting to get a good tune/idle before i drive it anywhere, first place being the exhaust shop. I will be running SD with FIC 650s, but because i am just trying to fix any potential bugs before i start really tuning, I’m starting out with the stock 450s and stock 2g MAF. To say the least it’s not perfect. I’ve only had link for a day now so any help is appreciated.

Running:
Ported EVO316g
PR FMIC
Injen Intake
Magnus SMIM
BC 272 cams
Wally 255
AFPR 43.5 psi

Let’s see if i got this right.
My front o2 seems to not be cycling smoothly. Could this be because I don’t have a downpipe and it is interfering with o2 readings, or is that a sign of blown o2 sensor? May I also note that wideband will be installed too with exhaust install?

I forced it into open loop and my sensor just drops in voltage.

My next plan of action from what i learned would be to get my airflow/rev down to my .25. I would do that by decreasing MAF Comp values around the 50hz. Should that be necessary with a stock MAF or is it cause i have so much other air flow mods.

Then i would increase deadtime for to fix combinedFT, but once again... should that even be needed for stock injectors or is it cause of the 255 wally and the correctly adjusted AFPR... 43.5 PSI.

I would assume this would lower my idle to something a little normal.?

MY TPS is good. I did it all by myself too.

The place where my voltage dropped is where i forced my fans on. Just messing around.

Any input is appreciated.

 

[Guilty1s]

I was able to get my idle to a smooth 900 by adjusting the BISS and it was what i had changed to have it aim for... but my iac position certainly isnt at 30. I have made a few changes that certainly helped stuff out alot.

I had to drop my battery down and low for the SMIM install. I ran a new 4 gauge wire to the alternater and made 3 more engine/chassis grounds coming off the ground terminal. Brought my voltage around 11 to 14.

I installed my downpipe.No more open O2 housing.I'm sure that helped.

I also installed my wideband (AEM.. i know i know) in the front O2 sensor position and logged it and NB sim. My front O2 wasnt cycling good.... it was.... all over the place or just flatlined. Anyways... please look at this to tell me if that is what the sim should look like or more of steady intervals.

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Im not even going to post a log yet as i am trying to drop that airflowperrev to the .25 and im not having the best of luck doing so. Im on a stock MAF and stock injectors. Im going to do ANOTHER boost leak test just in case but nothing i could find came up last time.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Terry's Talon Troubleshooting Tips #3 - Fast Idle (aka. Idle Surge)


have you done any of the above in the link to fix idle.

 

[pos4g63]

You have a couple codes showing up in your log.

 

[Guilty1s]

all evap stuff that is deleted... Its not checking for them no more

Dont even worry about that log... it was barely running and i have fixed the mechanical/electrical issues that caused the crappyness of it.

I just want to make sure i am starting on a good platform. Does my NB sim look the way it is supposed to?

Im also taking suggestions on how to lower the airflow/rev assuming my BLT doesnt show anything again.

 

[pos4g63]

It was throwing some maf circuit codes.

 

[WES_393]

I was going to say your front O2 voltage was crazy. The pic you posted isn't showing up for me, I'm not sure if others can see it. Your idle is actually pretty steady, I saw one section where you cycled from 900-1200 for a while, but the O2 voltage was nuts at that point as well.

Personally I wouldn't put your wideband in the front or simulate the front O2. An OEM front O2 sensor and the wideband at the correct spot (30 inches down stream I beleive?) would probably help out alot.

 

[Guilty1s]

Im also 90% sure in that log i had injector 1 disabled. May i suggest leaving the original skins for link on there as some of them its hard to tell if something is disabled or not by the color.

It was throwing some maf circuit codes.

Hmm... didn't notice that. I should be able to see that under the DTC tab in link right? As far as i can see, it's not there now. I may have pulled plug to get a reaction... I don't remember now.

Personally I wouldn't put your wideband in the front or simulate the front O2. An OEM front O2 sensor and the wideband at the correct spot (30 inches downstream I believe?) would probably help out a lot.

It's been argued back and forth but the people that have it swear that it never gave them any problems. My stock front wasn't cycling and now it is so I'm happy. I had it mounted 36inchs down my downpipe before my AWD swap. but with this new 3" AWD DP it's hard to fit anything in that tunnel. Im not sure if its permanent or not, but i am just trying to get a good foundation to stand on and then build a steady tune. I still have to add injectors and SD but I can't even get stock MAF and injectors in correctly.

Let me get you a fresh new idle long to check out.