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ECMlink First log ever

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nek

10+ Year Contributor
832
9
Apr 17, 2009
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
Well I got ecmlink v3 with gm maf.
First off, after install, I tried to take my car for a spin around the block, and it wouldnt accelerate when I pushed the pedal, I was limited to about 2k rpm. It felt similar to when I hadnt pluged in my maf previously on accident before ecm install. I did have the 3in maf option selected on ecmlink.
I then went ahead and plugged in the regular maf and selected stock maf option on ecm link. Same feeling. Maybe you guys can tell by a log. Thanks in advanced! Very interested in learning tuning!

oh, did some research and it turns out in my misc tab, I have "use non -95/96 cam angle sensor" I guess this is default but obv I dont want this checked... That should fix my reving problem correct?
 

Attachments

  • log.2010.07.20-01.elg
    142.2 KB · Views: 70
First, uncheck "disable idle switch while moving" on the RPM/TPS tab. Zero out your timing adjustment, you have it at -7* at 2000 rpm. If you have a 1g CAS then check "use non 95/96 CAS" otherwise uncheck it.


First thing you need to do is set your idle. You are at 0.30/0.31 g/rev and on a 2.0L you want to be around 0.25g/rev. That is adjusted by MAFComp sliders in accordance to the logged Hz for "MAF". You need to log "CombinedFT" as well so you can set your injectors appropriatly as you want your CombinedFT +/- 5% from 0


You are getting knock which is what's causing you to not move. Not to mention your front o2 is not cycling at all which could mean it's dead.
 
hmm. I obviously dont know much about tuning but is it possible my front 02 isnt cycling because im stuck in closed loop? (or open which ever happens first). I dont really know how to tell when I switch loops LOL. Ill try to get back in there after work and do what you said. Dont be afraid to go into to much detail, the more the better :)
 
... possible my front 02 isnt cycling because im stuck in closed loop? (or open which ever happens first). I dont really know how to tell when I switch loops LOL.

With no O2 sensor you will be locked in open loop. (working O2 sensor = AFR feedback to ECU = closed loop).

You can log either ClosedLoop or OpenLoop if you want to track when the car changes between open and closed loop.
 
With no O2 sensor you will be locked in open loop. (working O2 sensor = AFR feedback to ECU = closed loop).

You can log either ClosedLoop or OpenLoop if you want to track when the car changes between open and closed loop.

do you think my 02 sensor is done or do you think its just stuck in open loop then ( or is that the same thing). I ran cel codes before I got ecmlink and it didnt report a problem with my front 02. I bought a new front 02 anyways but I was thinking about returning it and investing in wideband down the road.

Thanks for the quick responses boys :thumb:

Alright I zerod my timing, unchecked 95/96 cas, adjusted my idle down to 26/27g/rev but it took alot of adjusting that Im worried about. Also, it seems something is wrong with my CombineFt because when I adjust deadtime on my injectors it keeps the combineft the same.. I dont know whats wrong, does the combine ft rely on the front 02 or something? Im lost.:(

Lemme know what you guys think!
 

Attachments

  • log.2010.07.21-02.elg
    140.9 KB · Views: 60
Since your running a GM MAF you need to go into your ECU Config settings and do the following...
  1. Go to your ECU Inputs tab
    • Find the ECU Input Locks for Factory Code column
    • Click the box that Locks Intake Temperature & Barometric Pressure
  2. Go to your MAFComp tab
    • Find the Global Scalar window, yours is currently at 0.0%
    • Click the Change icon
    • Click the Auto Adjust icon
    • Select OK, this will adjust your MAFComp sliders to center around 0%

Your front o2 sensor might begin to cycle after you lock the baro and IAT since the ECU thinks your MAF's completely unplugged and goes into "safe mode" since its blind to the amount of air thats coming into your motor. Your coolant temps are also VERY VERY high, they should hover around 190* - 206*, once it hits 228* it will kick the ECU into open loop too. Even though your's is around 216* - 223* and not the cause of your car staying in open loop the ECU still pulls a degree of timing over 206*. Below are the coolant temperature points that the ECU watches...

Enter ECU Learn Mode :: 180F (82C)
Coolant Fan ON :: 210F (99C)
Pull 1 degree timing :: 206F (97C)
Pull 2 degree timing :: 224F (107C)
Enter Open Loop Mode :: 228F (109C)
Default Coolant CEL :: 235F (113C)
A/C Override :: 240F (115C)

Get your injectors global and deadtime set correctly and from looking at your mods list in the profile your still on stock 450's so it should be zero'd out. Then log your STFT and CombinedFT and adjust your MAFComp sliders to get both the STFT & CombinedFT values 0% (+/- 1).

:dsm:
 
Thanks for the response gofer. I tried what you said but I had no luck, the 02 sensor just doesnt want to respond. The thing is, when I hook back up my other ecu, I can boost and rev fine.... Should I just take this somewhere and pay someone to tune it for me?

Also, I hear this ring noise when I let off the boost... do you guys think thats knock or turbine wheel? It doesnt really matter how much gas im using, right when I lift my foot I can hear it almost every time.
 
Thanks for the response gofer. I tried what you said but I had no luck, the 02 sensor just doesnt want to respond. The thing is, when I hook back up my other ecu, I can boost and rev fine.... Should I just take this somewhere and pay someone to tune it for me?

Also, I hear this ring noise when I let off the boost... do you guys think thats knock or turbine wheel? It doesnt really matter how much gas im using, right when I lift my foot I can hear it almost every time.
Your welcome, we're all here to help that way you don't have to pay someone to tune your car just to get it running right, maybe for performance but not DD'ing it!

Your front o2 sensor is displaying 0v which means its dead, I think it might show .02v for a second but other than that... You need to get it replaced before you can actually start tuning your GM MAF, if money's tight get one from oxygensensors.com for cheap. But before you do all that pop the hood and ensure its plugged into the wiring harness and verify the wires going from the connector to the sensor are in good shape. I did all the hard work for you if you've got to order one, you'll want to get the front o2 or pre cat o2 sensor. 2g o2 Sensors

I honestly think you need to ZERO all your MAFComp sliders and start over after you fix the front o2 sensor dilemma, doing what I said while logging your STFT & CombinedFT values. Lets say your STFT is showing +10% at idle and your MAFRaw is right around 500Hz when its doing it. Go into your MAFComp tab and take 10% from 0Hz to 500Hz in the sliders then save it to the ECU. Go back to live datalog and see what your STFT is now, it should be 0% (+/- 1).

When you hook up your stock ECU how does your car even function, unless your changing back to your stock 2g MAF as well? Right now with a dead front o2 sensor AND a GM MAF that isn't calibrated your car has nothing to watch to get a good AFR mixture. I'd say order a new o2 sensor and plug in the stock MAF and ECU to get by for now, then we'll start tuning the new GM MAF with link once you get the o2 sensor installed and working.

:dsm:
 
Alright guys, got a new 02 sensor in and it now oscillates but not very fast like in the ecmlink demo.
Looking at gofers reply above, shouldnt I be using the mafcomp sliders to get the AirflowperRev to ~25 then use the injector deadtime to get the stft &Combineft as close to zero as possible?
Where should I go from here?

Updated log

Alright, I think my idle is good. I went on an easy cruise and it went better then when I first started.
Things that worry me though.
Does the knock look realistic or is it supposed to appear in short bursts? To battle knock Im just droping the timing by a single degree at a time using the tmgmaxoct chart and trackdatalog. Is this correct?
Also, my coolant temps get extremely high. Im going to try to refill my radiator tomorrow and see if that helps...I felt the lower radiator hose, and the hose wasnt hot, it was actually pretty cool so the radiator is doing its job. No sure what the true isue here is.

What other recommendations do can you guys make? Am I on the right track?

Thanks!
 

Attachments

  • log.2010.07.25-02.elg
    31.1 KB · Views: 54
  • log.2010.07.25-06.elg
    485.9 KB · Views: 58
Last edited:
First and foremost you need to get your coolant temps under control, you shouldn't even be letting your car get that hot. Heat like that will warp your head so the next time you go into boost you'll blow your headgasket... If your lucky hopefully nothing happened. Drain and flush your coolant system then replace your t-stat, when your filling it back up add a bottle of WaterWetter and a 50/50 mix of coolant and water. Make sure your fans are kicking on, or force them on by going to the Misc tab in link and select the "Activate fans full on" box.

1st Log
Your idle MAFComp and Fuel settings still need adjusting. A M/T 2g fully warmed up (180*) with a good idle tune should have a CombinedFT of 0% (+/- 1%) and AirflowPerRev of 0.25 gm/rev (+/- .01).

Your idle shows a CombinedFT anywhere between -0.4% to -4.5% and your AirflowPerRev is sitting at 0.22 gm/rev which is too low. To bring it up to 0.25 gm/rev increase your MAFComp 0Hz-500Hz sliders since your MAFRaw is 485Hz at idle, moving your 500Hz slider UP to 30% will probably get your AirflowPerRev close to 0.25 gm/rev. Your 0Hz-500Hz sliders should be the same % Adj in your MAFComp and yours aren't even close to being the same.

After you get your AirflowPerRev correct then look at your CombinedFT and see how far from 0% it is. If its +10% then go to your Fuel tab and add deadtime to your injectors, if its -10% then take deadtime from your injectors... Just remember to hit the SAVE button everytime you make changes while the cars running and you can see the change while its logging.

2nd Log
Your DA timing map needs to be reset to stock, just right click it and select Reset To Stock.

The knock is from the car overheating, you can't let the car get that hot man because your killing it.

:dsm:
 
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