Aproductions
10+ Year Contributor
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- Aug 11, 2009
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Allentown,
Pennsylvania
my car sucks when it is cold and idles like you wouldnt believe but doesnt when warm. anyways what does a fiav delete do and how do i go about doing it? thanks
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crimsondragon - 2g and 1g TBs are virtually the same. Anyway what are the symptoms of your idle?
What is the FIAV for?
Define high. It should idle about 1500RPM when cold and then drop as the car warms up.On cold starts, it idles high.
you could try just not running the coolant to the lines first so you don't have to unbolt anything. the fiav may open though just from warm intake air if you are on a turbo car.
Doesn't sound like a FIAV problem. You mean you crank it twice before it has to start? How long do you hold the key to crank it? And define ###.when my car is cold in the morning it wont start for like 2 tried with the key, and then it acts ### until coolant is warm. then its fine.
Ok, so the fiav blockoff will have bad idle at startup. But the bypass dosent? What is the advantage of getting rid of the fiav/bypassing it?
So should I do the blockoff, or the bypass? What are the pro's and cons to doing both? What is the FIAV for?
On cold starts, it idles high. So what your saying is I should try the blockoff, if I have problems put it back on? Is there a vfaq for it? One more question, what is the bypass for then?
There is no wax pellet. It's exactly like a thermostat. And I remember there being only one spring and it was not that heavy.you could try just not running the coolant to the lines first so you don't have to unbolt anything. the fiav may open though just from warm intake air if you are on a turbo car. it is basically a thermostat that controls idle. there is a wax pellet type actuator in there with 2 very heavy springs and a valve.
Without the coolant lines it will never close. It's starts out open and closes as it gets hot.
There is no wax pellet. It's exactly like a thermostat. And I remember there being only one spring and it was not that heavy.
If I block off the fiav, what in dsmlink do I use to simulate the isc for idle? Cold start, warm, etc.
Doesn't sound like a FIAV problem. You mean you crank it twice before it has to start? How long do you hold the key to crank it? And define ###.
If you do the blockoff, you essentially lose both the FIAV and ISC. Most cases the ISC is used to regulate idle. Eliminate that and you'll have a hard time trying to idle the car unless you have a way to simulate that you have an ISC which is where DSMLink usually come in. With just the blockoff, you eliminate the valve to let air in on cold startups to give you a higher idle to let the car warm up quicker. Also in some cases, without the FIAV the car will die when it first starts up. The higher idle prevents that. Without the FIAV, you'll have to keep your foot on the throttle a little bit to prevent it from dying. I recommend doing either a blockoff or what I did which is close the valve forever. Follow here: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-intake-exhaust/320951-fiav-adjustment-disable.html
Another advantage is that once the car is fully warmed up, you'll have 180*F coolant circulating in the TB heating up the air. That's a big no no in the performance outlook and eliminating the valve along with the coolant lines will generally prevent a slight decrease in performance. I say generally because the head will transfer a lot of heat thru the intake manifold to the TB anyway in the end.
There is no wax pellet. It's exactly like a thermostat. And I remember there being only one spring and it was not that heavy.