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2G Feeding ofh with nt water pipe

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jpmxrider489

10+ Year Contributor
2,411
146
Apr 4, 2010
pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
I am installing my holset this weekend and doesnt use water lines. I have a NT water pipe with a 1g thermostat. I also have a 1g turbo water pipe but is in pretty rough shape. Rather than using either my 1g or 2g turbo water pipe, is there a better way to get water returned to the ofh? I know the feed is off thermostat and has it's own hard line. I'm just not sure what to do about the other line. Just curious if there is a easier work around rather than getting a 90 ofh or running no cooler. It would also be easier to find a way to get water to the ofh rather than blocking off all my water lines from the turbo.

My immediate solution was going to be use either the heater core or fiav return and use that to go to the ofh. I am not using the core or fiav. To use the fiav line would be a long run along the block with a rubber hose. Just seems like a bandaid to me. I also cant weld so that option is unavailable. Was thinking about tapping the pipe but it's fairly thin.

Sorry if this is confusing to read.
 
You COULD source it from any port above the t-stat in the t-stat housing. As long as one if above the t-stat and one is below, your system should have some flow thru it. No promises that it will work well...

I am kinda with @Vegas smith on this one... if the solution is recondition a part or redesign/modify the system, I am going with recon every time...
 
I agree with both of you. I would just try and make a somewhat versatile install. Not that I'm switching setups all the time but just to make it easier if I do.

What port can be used as a return a 1g thermostat if a nt water pipe was used? I would like to to function like normal, as in always sucking.

I like the extra ports on a 1g thermostat because it would allow versatility. But would need a always suck and always feed port regardless of temperature and if the thermostat is open or closed.
 

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Is there a reason you don't want to eliminate the water lines?

You will not have much luck returning to the thermostat housing. If you absolutely want to keep the oil cooler, I would suggest either the FIAV or heater core return as the easiest, not-too-custom route.
 
Is there a reason you don't want to eliminate the water lines?

You will not have much luck returning to the thermostat housing. If you absolutely want to keep the oil cooler, I would suggest either the FIAV or heater core return as the easiest, not-too-custom route.

I dont want to switch oil coolers. But do you mean eliminate the water for the oil cooler? Just loop the lines? I never thought about that but are their any negatives by doing that? I could do a external cooler. The car isnt a daily. Just a fun weekend car that occasionally sees the track.

I did think about using the fiav or heater as a return to the ofh. I just didnt like the idea if running a rubber line along the block that far if a distance.

I didnt read up on running no oil cooler. I admit I need to research that aspect of my question.
 
I am with you on not wanting to route hoses that far.

What oil temps do you see in normal usage? I have the sandwich cooler and actually cant get my oil as hot as I would like it... I only leave it on there because it helps heat the oil during warm-up.
You could loop the hoses and monitor oil temp until you know what your operating range is...
 
I am with you on not wanting to route hoses that far.

What oil temps do you see in normal usage?
You could loop the hoses and monitor oil temp until you know what your operating range is...

That's a good question. I actually dont have a oil temp gauge. Wouldn't be a bad thing to get.

I try and run things as they were designed unless it is not being used.
 
For your reference: 2g oil filter housing/water cooler delete?

I don't disagree about the length of hose if you were to use either the FIAV or heater hose return as the oil cooler return -- just saying it is the only feasible option to actually get flow without some fairly significant modification.

Generally speaking, oil coolers are recommended and not required for your day-to-day driver; they are really effective in road-race / endurance applications. The correct course of action, as @rabenne suggests, is to monitor your oil temperatures and ensure it stays within the operating range you want and make decisions going from there.

Having said that, if you aren't beating the daylights out of the car every time you drive it and you follow proper cool-down procedures before shut-off, it is going to be okay. Looping the lines would work; I'm personally more of a fan of "if you aren't going to use it..." approach, plug it or block it off to reduce or eliminate the possibility of a failure or leak.
 
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