Fastener Torque Values [Merged 3-9] value tightness torques specs specifications

[GreddySpyder]

I changed my leaky oil pan gasket not long ago and it is still leaking. I used red rtv as the gasket and ran a nice continuous bead around the whole pan making a circle around each bolt hole. I think the two mistakes I made were not waiting for the RTV to dry before putting the pan back on, and I think I tightened the bolts too much ( I ended up breaking one of them).
I'm gonna buy a torque wrench and make sure they are right this time... how much torque do the pan bolts require? How long should I let the RTV dry this time before putting the pan back on?

 

[Nicks2319]

Anyone with a service manual?

 

[TurboBlue]

Ok, I am going to be putting on a Mitsu MLS head gasket this weekend and I'm unsur eof the torque specs.

My gasket now isnt blown, I'm just upgrading to support the 50 trim better. I know the stock torque spec is 72, and 85 with ARP studs, which my block has. But I was told by some local DSM guru's to go up to 100-105 ft lbs. Has anyone else done this, does it sound good, or are they setting me up for something to go wrong?

Thanks alot

 

[TSIfreek]

Your stock gasket will be perfectly fine. I would hold the torque at 85 FT lbs with the ARP lube.
More isnt always better it puts more stress on the block thats not needed. Get the block and head surfaces as clean as possible before installing it. I learned to put the studs in last. The head dowels will get it perfecty square once you set it in place.

 

[TurboBlue]

so are you suggesting i remove the studs to clean everything, then put them back in through the head once its in place?

 

[Spidey]

I torqued mine in steps, 30-60-90 with ARP lube, later on I started losing coolant, re-torqued to 100 and has been fine since. This may not be the best way but worked for me.

 

[TurboBlue]

so are you suggesting i remove the studs to clean everything, then put them back in through the head once its in place?

That statement was stupid the more I think about it. They are torque to yield studs are they not? Hence, they are junk once I take the head off and need to be replaced?

 

[TSIfreek]

The ARP studs and all there hardware is reusable.
Stock like you have now in the motor are bolts not studs.
Run a tap threw each of the bolt holes while your cleaning it. Use light oil on the tap and take your time. This way you will know you have got the studs in as far as they can go minus 1/2 turn and you get good metal to metal contact between the block treads and the studs themselves.
Keep all the crap out of the oil holes in the block but the coolant hose dont worry about.
Yea keep all the studs out of the block until the head is on. You will have to put a few washers in before the studs.

 

[snox135]

No, he already has ARP's. You may want to remove the studs. It makes it easier to clean the block and install the head. I would stick with 85 ft. lbs. then retorque after a few heat cycles.

 

[TurboBlue]

Yeah, the block already has been studded, and after some research, I obviously found out that the studs will be fine, which makes me more then happy, because I'm running out of funds between the turbo, bigger FMIC, tial BOV, Hotisde porting/polishing/coating.

Thanks for all your input guys, it was greatly appreciated.

On a side note, anyone know if any of the stud holes go into a water jacket? Or are they all blind holes? I only ask cause im going to need sealant If anyof them do, thanks.

 

[wortdog]

No sealant needed.

 

[selmerguy]

I had a crack in my tranny cover so it is getting TIG welded. (the outside cover thingy) My haynes manual dosent give me torque specs for those bolts. What are they?

 

[VanIsleDSM]

Haynes doesn't list the torque specs for the large crossmember running under the tranny (with the tranny mount on it) nor does it list the specs for the gusset with the 5 bolts also taken out when removing the tranny.. doesn't list the transfer case specs either but I searched and found those.

They're grade 10 bolts so they're obviously quite important, I think getting the right torque on them is also important.. stupid haynes.

Thanks.

 

[boostedtsi0069]

the grade 10 bolts under the tranny on the crossmember torque them to 30 pounds.

 

[kidrabbit84]

Crossmeber:
Front 2 bolts at the radiator = 65 ft lb (Factory manual gives no tolerance)
Mid bolt that also ties into gusset = 51-58 ft lb

Gusset bolts:
51-58 ft lb

Upper tranny mount nuts to tranny:
42 ft lb (once again no tolerance)

Shear bolt/nut assembly for lower tranny mount:
42 ft lb (no tolerance listed)

Shear bolt/nut assembly for upper tranny mount:
51 ft lb (no tolerance listed)

You also asked for "2 bolts holding the lower tranny mount to the tranny" This doesnt exist...do you mean "2 bolts holding the lower tranny mount to the crossmember":
If so no torque spec listed. 30-50 ft lb would do it. I snug mine by hand with a 3/8 ratchet, and have had no issues with them backing off.

FYI:
Trans Case to Tranny: 40-44 ft lb

Go with the factory shop manual...you won't regret it.

Adam
If this helps a recomdation for reputation points would be appreciated. I ve posted a ton and still no Rep score...boohoo
BTW: All values came from 97 Eclipse/Eclipse Spyder Service Manual Vol1

 

[Calan]

Bringing this back... cause I just torqued mine to 18-20lbs with blue locktite. (They are new bolts into a new flywheel). Think this will be good?

I agree with Millerman... 11-16 just seems way to low for some reason and is unnerving.

 

[Millerman340]

They'll be fine, Never had a problem with mine..Dave.

 

[crazy_skier]

I run 25 lbs and love how it disengauges... my new 2600 is twice as soft as the old one (newer style) and I have a south bend sprung kevlar disk so its an awesome combo, but I would torque it higher than lower to be safe

 

[sbengineering]

Looking for torque specs for 6-bolt ARP mains and Rod bolts.

 

[Jeff_Ciesielski]

Mains are 60 ft. lbs. Rod bolts are 40 ft lbs, but torque them 3 times.

 

[GVR4592]

It depends on which rod bolts you have.

 

[sbengineering]

2000's. also what about head studs?

 

[GVR4592]

This has all been covered many times before, did you try searching at all?

 

[VanIsleDSM]

Well the title says it all.. haynes fails me again.. says to tighten them to the specs in the chapter.. but then doesn't have any.. only has rear hub to knucle specs... I know someone out there with a shop manual is willing to help me out

 

[luv2rallye]

65 ft.lbs - don't forget to put anti-seize on that hub (into the knuckle area)!

 

[VanIsleDSM]

Thanks dude.

..it was pretty fun getting it out of the knuckle.. the axle was easy as I just did my tranny.. so I had nothing to push against with a puller.. I smacked out a wheel stud and used the same method for removing brake rotors... just pushed against the knucle from the hub with a long enough bolt and a nut on the other side.. worked pretty well.

edit: well.. I didn't take off either axle nut when I did my tranny.. don't know why I said that this morning.. still waking up I guess.. the driver side had been out of the hub before when I did a CV boot, but the passenger hadn't.. though I never thought anything of it.. it just pushed out with my hand after the nut was off. I did a search on here before I figured out my own my to get it off and found a thread with a guy who had the same problem, people were saying to use a puller .. well if you're axle is loose there's nowhere to push against with a puller to get the hub out of the knuckle.. so if you search and find this thread use my half borrowed trick = )