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Fastener Torque Values [Merged 3-9] value tightness torques specs specifications

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GreddySpyder

20+ Year Contributor
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Oct 21, 2002
Alabama
I changed my leaky oil pan gasket not long ago and it is still leaking. I used red rtv as the gasket and ran a nice continuous bead around the whole pan making a circle around each bolt hole. I think the two mistakes I made were not waiting for the RTV to dry before putting the pan back on, and I think I tightened the bolts too much ( I ended up breaking one of them).
I'm gonna buy a torque wrench and make sure they are right this time... how much torque do the pan bolts require? How long should I let the RTV dry this time before putting the pan back on?
 
We have some serious DSM genius on this forum! Thanks all... I owe reputation points to everyone, but I haven't figured out how to do that yet... Freakin noobs...
 
We have some serious DSM genius on this forum! Thanks all... I owe reputation points to everyone, but I haven't figured out how to do that yet... Freakin noobs...

Many members of the DSMtuners board are serious students of history, and are always looking to expand their collection of examples of political and presidential portraiture.
 

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Can a lose or tight knock sensor have a big affect on the sensitivity of the sensor? I'm trying to track down why my knock count is so high.
 
Around 17 ft/lbs.

A lot of people have reported phantom knock when not torquing it down to spec so maybe that's the problem. You might also want to datalog your vehicle to see if you're not knocking due to a lean or rich mixture or too much timing.

Good luck.
 
Thanks, I think mine is too lose. It's knocking at wot and 10.9 afr. It's even knocking when I shift, like a spike in the graph.
 
Does anyone know what the torque spec is for the oil squirter bolts for a 1990 4G63T? I can't seem to find it among all the debates.
 
not quite. how about this.
tighten the f out of them, warm the car up and then double check to make sure they are tight as hell.
then proceed to advanced auto and by the haynes manual book thing and you can just look it up for future reference =]
 
You guys realize that this post is 4 years old?

In case someone comes across this post from a search, the torque for exhaust manifold bolts on a 2G is 20 ft. lbs. for the smaller studs and 21 ft. lbs. for the 2 larger studs. On a 1G it is 20 ft. lbs. If you have an 8 valve engine, it is 13 ft. lbs. Don't ask me what is the 8 valve engine. I got these specs from the service manual on CD.

Mike
 
Does anyone have the actual torque spec given from the Chilton's or any other service manual? My Haynes manual does not give this torque spec.

Tightening these bolts is a bit different from using the torque to percentage yield method. It is not always applicable due to not just the fastener type, but also the clamping materials. I am not sure if the sheetmetal or the steel inserts in the rubber bushings will have an effect, but I would like to be safe. If there is any difference, the service manual torque would be lower.

Note: I too need the 2g subframe torque spec, this isn't for my car.
 
I need to go buy a manual but I am short on cash so if you guys would look up something for me I would be grateful.


I need to know what to torque the front wheel hub's too I would guess 100ft lb but I would rather know than guess.
 
Hi,

Are you talking about the axle nut for the front hubs? It is suppose to be torqued to 144-188 ft-lbs. The range is so that you can slide the cotter pin in properly.

Bill
 

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What is the correct torque specs of the main cap bolts on the 4G63T 6 bolt??
 
Im putting my motor back together right now and I cant find my haynes manual.. Ive found plenty of places that show 6 bolt torque specs, but I need the 7 bolt torque specs. Ive noticed that there are differences in the two so if someone has a place where I can find them, that would be great!

Please no "buy a book" responses..
 
crankcase, headbolts, oil pan, flywheel, pressure plate, valve cover, rod bolts. I have some, but I would like to get them from another source to make sure they are correct.
 
Off-hand, I know the valve cover bolts are 2.3-to-2.5 ft.lbs., but you should read through this thread regarding the VC (especially at the end of the first page). Other than that I would have to check. In the future, look into purchasing one of these.
 
Head:
Step 1 Tighten to 58 ft/lbs
Step 2 Losen fully (in reverse order)
Step 3- 14.5 ft/lb
Step 4- 90 degrees
Step 5- 90 more degrees

Camshaft Bearing: 14 ft/lb

Oil Pan: 5 ft/lb

Flywheel: 98 ft/lbs

Connecting rod:
Step 1- 14.5 ft/lbs
Step 2- 90 degrees
Step 3- 100 degrees


am I missing anything?
 
I have the manual, me and my friend were doing the brake pads, I had to change them. When we put back the bolt's, that go in the back, 2 main bolts to take the caliper off, what torque should I set it at? I looked in the manual, and it was like 35 or 45, don't have it infornt of me, so I can't remember exact. But when me and my friend did it, we set it at 16, and it seemed pretty tight, i been driving for 2 days now, it seems tight in there. Can someon double check the torque specs for me, let me know what I need to set it at. they are the lock and guide pins, i beleive that's what they are called. basically caliper mounting bolts.

Thanks a lot guys.

George

Any replies? Can someone help me out please. I just need someone to double check the torque specs on those 2 bolts, please. Thanks guys
 
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