The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Fastener Torque Values [Merged 3-9] value tightness torques specs specifications

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

GreddySpyder

20+ Year Contributor
414
0
Oct 21, 2002
Alabama
I changed my leaky oil pan gasket not long ago and it is still leaking. I used red rtv as the gasket and ran a nice continuous bead around the whole pan making a circle around each bolt hole. I think the two mistakes I made were not waiting for the RTV to dry before putting the pan back on, and I think I tightened the bolts too much ( I ended up breaking one of them).
I'm gonna buy a torque wrench and make sure they are right this time... how much torque do the pan bolts require? How long should I let the RTV dry this time before putting the pan back on?
 
Except for special fasteners, torque values are a matter of the fastener size. Things like banjo bolt fasteners are lots lower, and connecting rod bolts are higher. And then you get into the odd things like torque-to-yield, or stretch-to-spec and the like.

Glad to help.
 
slipstream808 said:
Yeah, get a Chiltons. They have all the torque specs for 90% of your car in there!

I never had any problems with finding torque specs with my Haynes manual until I came to the subframe. I have the Mitsubishi manual on CD but its stuck in a CD-ROM in a computer of mine thats not working.
 
Defiant said:
Except for special fasteners, torque values are a matter of the fastener size. Things like banjo bolt fasteners are lots lower, and connecting rod bolts are higher. And then you get into the odd things like torque-to-yield, or stretch-to-spec and the like.

Glad to help.

Once again, thanks for your help.
 
I recently put in a ACT 2600. After I have been able to get an engine lift, I finally put the tranny back on the car. But now I can't find the bolts that mate the tranny to the motor. Does anyone know the exact size bolts I need?
 
Does anyone know the factory torque specifications for installing a new exhaust header? I figure the low end loss is worth the high end gain.

Info:
1998 Eclipse GS
2.0L 420A
 
Hi all!

I have tried to find a easy answer, but dont manage to do it. I suppose there are lots of you who rebuilt your 1G 46G3 engines and changed the bolts to ARP ones.

Could someone please just help me with the correct torque and if there is a additional step after that, i used the assebly grease that came in the box.
Cranckshaft mains:
Head:

Should i just use the instructions from the Haynes handbook, did that already but it doesnt feel enough.

I got instructions with torque with the eagle rods, but is there a 90 degree involved, did not say anything about it.

There are lot of different torques on the ARP boxes, but since i live in a metric system land im quite unfamiliar with the " stuff. I can convert ft/lbs to nm/m.

Hope someone can help me.
 
Hi again, finally found it, sorry will look deeper before posting next time.


rods 40 torque then losen and retorque 3 times.
mains 60
head 80
 
I tried searching and didnt find what i was looking for. I need the torque specs for the following

6 bolt engine

Rod and main caps.
Arp head studs and the bolts.

Thanks
 
ARP Head Studs:
1. Use high temp thread sealer and hand tighten studs into block then back off a full turn.
2. Put on head, and put on washers and nuts. Make sure to use the moly lube provided with studs from ARP
3. Torque using the sequence in Haynes manual. Do them all at 30ft/lbs. Then do them all at 60ft/lbs, and finish off by doing them all at 90ft/lbs (or whatever you'd like; I do mine at 90).

Main Bearing Caps:
18ft/lbs + 90* (1/4 turn)

Rod Bolts:
Same as mains.
 
ya, if you dont use the moly lube for some reason (highly recommended that you do) and use motor oil you need to torque them to like 130 lb/ft or something rediculous. i usually do mine to 100 tho with moly lube, especially with a mls head gasket. dont forget to let the car completely cool down after driving it and re-torque the studs, not an absolute necessity but highly advised. ive always used moly lube on where teh studs go into the block and where the nuts go on. you only really need thread sealer if the protrude into water jackets but ive never had that issue.
 
You need to 'streatch' new ARP head studs... Toruqe them down in 3 steps... 30 60 90 then loosen them up and three step toruqe thwem again. Lossen them up and 3 step toruqe them again. Lossen them up and toruqe them down in threee steps for the last time. This has worked well for me.
 
Hello Dsmers, I am trying to put my shortblock back together today and I do not have the torque specs for the rods and mains on a 90 6 bolt 4g63T all stock bearings, I had a chiltons when i had my 2nd gen but I let it go with the car so now im without at the moment. If someone would look it up in there haynes or chiltons id greatly appreciate it. Thanks, Larry :dsm:
 
Hey Steve Thanks alot.. Now I can fire the heater up and get somthing done on this cold Iowan weather day... Im sure its just as nice there today... LOL :dsm:
 
Im doing the 5th gear fix on my tranny, and I need to know how much to torque the cover bolts to...i dont wanna crack to cover by making it too tight. Both my 1g and 2g haynes manuals dont have this info. Thanks!
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top