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Fastener Torque Values [Merged 3-9] value tightness torques specs specifications

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GreddySpyder

20+ Year Contributor
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Oct 21, 2002
Alabama
I changed my leaky oil pan gasket not long ago and it is still leaking. I used red rtv as the gasket and ran a nice continuous bead around the whole pan making a circle around each bolt hole. I think the two mistakes I made were not waiting for the RTV to dry before putting the pan back on, and I think I tightened the bolts too much ( I ended up breaking one of them).
I'm gonna buy a torque wrench and make sure they are right this time... how much torque do the pan bolts require? How long should I let the RTV dry this time before putting the pan back on?
 
I doublechecked with Mitsubishi and the torque specs for the flywheel on a 1g are 94-101, so that has to be right. That's not what I'm seeing in my book though WTF .
 
99gst_racer said:
ARP claims that gasket material will not affect your torque specs.
Thanks. I just got off the phone with ARP, they said to torque to 75 with molley, Dan said 90, a nabr thread said 100.........:cry: What do you think Paul?
 
When I originally had my head studs installed on the new bottom end, they were step torqued with moly lube on an OEM composite at 25/50/75. After one heat cycle, they were checked at 75 and a few weeks later, Dan and I set them to 90 using 30 weight oil.

I don't think it's a huge issue as long as the torque isn't excessive (over 100 ft./lbs.)
 
oldman said:
Thanks. I just got off the phone with ARP, they said to torque to 75 with molley, Dan said 90, a nabr thread said 100.........:cry: What do you think Paul?
The only downside to over-torquing (that I know of) would be over stretching the fastener. To obtain the correct amount of clamping force, a fastener should actually be stretched to a measured amount. At 75 ft/lbs, ARP claims their 4G63 head stud provides enough clamping force. So, at 90 or 100 ft/lbs, obviously the clamping force would be greater, but so would overall length of the fastener. If a fastener's rebound is not equal to it's stretch, then its condition is considered partially or fully failed.

In a nutshell: ARP says 75 ft/lbs is good enough. That does not necessarily mean more is bad. BUT, if they are over-torqued and stretched too much, you could exceed the fastener's yield strength and it would be ruined.


I have never measured a head stud for stretch, so I cannot say that I know from experience if 90 or 100 ft/lbs is overly excessive or not. It's my opinion that 100 ft/lbs could be better for high performance, but I would not reuse them after pulling the head.
 
Thanks guys, I just got back from hunting down a valve spring compressor, I damaged two of my dual spring seats trying to install my oversized ARP nuts. ARP was nice enough to agree to swap them with smaller flanged ones. In the mean time I will see if I can get away with machining the seats myself. :coy:
 
I have a manual, but it is only for the 90-94 and I don't know how different the 1g and 2g specs are. I just need the torque specs for the rod bearing caps on a 99 n/t and that is all. I searched a bunch and I saw a couple responses that said 36-38 ft lbs, but none said what car it was for. A couple also said 14.5 ft lbs with a 90-100 degree turn after that, which I don't understand how that could work.
 
That's ok.

Also, you did get new bolts, right? TTY bolts stretch upon the final application of torque, so they can generally only be used once.
 
I believe the pressure plate to flywheel bolts should be around 15 ft/lbs and use loctite. Flywheel is 94-101 ft/lbs and definately use loctite.
 
Ill dig it up in the 2g service manual. I believe the exact range is like 11-15 ft/lbs. Its a 6mm bolt and I bet it would snap at 25 or 30 ft/lbs.
 
For the clutch cover/pressure plate, my manual says 22 ft/lbs. Although I have found with a heavier than stock pressure plate more torque is needed to mate the pressure plate tightly against the flywheel. Just make sure you use locktite and the mating surfaces contact each other w/ at least 22 ft/lbs.
 
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