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Fastener Torque Values [Merged 3-9] value tightness torques specs specifications

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GreddySpyder

20+ Year Contributor
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Oct 21, 2002
Alabama
I changed my leaky oil pan gasket not long ago and it is still leaking. I used red rtv as the gasket and ran a nice continuous bead around the whole pan making a circle around each bolt hole. I think the two mistakes I made were not waiting for the RTV to dry before putting the pan back on, and I think I tightened the bolts too much ( I ended up breaking one of them).
I'm gonna buy a torque wrench and make sure they are right this time... how much torque do the pan bolts require? How long should I let the RTV dry this time before putting the pan back on?
 
I have looked all thru my haynes and can't seem to find the trans and motor mount thru bolt torque specs.What are they or do I just make them as tight as possible?
 
NO NO don't just tighten it.
here...

Transaxle mount- Mount to transmission= 41 ft.lbs
Mount to Car body= 50 ft.lbs

When you just make it real tight you bend and/or break stuff.
I have a mitsu service manual straight from the dealer. It was a lot of $ but worth it.:)
dave
 
im rebuilding a 6 bolt engine and wanted to see if anyone knew where i could get all the torque specs for everything in the motor such as main studs, rod bolts, head studs, oil pan, etc....

kevin
 
Some of the torque specs in the Chiltons manual are not accurate. Get a factory service manual, it the only way to go.
 
BrokenTsi said:
not every torque wrench is the same, or serviced recently. And many torque wrenches are correct within +/- 4%. Ask any quality engine builder they will go on and on about how important rod bolt stretch is :D


Places which do torque audits on a regular basis will NOT use clicker torque wrenches (which means it is much more than 4%).

The only torque wrenches they trust are cam-over type.
 
You don't need to torque them. Just screw them in until they don't screw anymore.

Make sure they're gapped to .028" though.
 
do not worry about the exact torque specifications. the only descriptive word you need to remember regarding this is "snug."

that's the same word my father told me when i first replaced my plugs, and i knew exactally what he meant.

EDIT: btw do not tighten them so firmly that you get screwed. if you do, they will be virtually impossible to take out without ripping out the entire engine and trying to get them loose. THEY AREN'T GOING ANYWHERE!! just use a little bit of wrist force and that is all you need.
 
Really bad advice guys. Snug works right up to the point where it's too snug and the head is stripped.

Since we are talking 4G63 the spec is 25 Nm (18 ft.lbs). The 1G manual gives a range of 20-30 Nm (15-21 ft.lbs.)

I've yet to meet a human with calibrated hands so we always use tools that are.

Steve
 
DSMunknown said:
EDIT: come on... rep point!ROFL

You want rep points, I'll give you some but you won't like it. :sneaky:

Search around to see what sort of rep points we give out to people that post bad advice and ask for points.

Steve
 
BrokenTsi said:
Its got nothing to do with trusting ARP with their torque spec. Its the fact not every torque wrench is trustworthy IMO, and torque value is strongly affected by the "smoothness" or surface finish of the threads on the bolt and the threads in the rod, the type and amount of lubricant used on the threads etc.

Bolt stretch is affected by material properties and bolt dimensions. Its just absolutely more precise.

Never once did i say you cant go by just torque value. But in my personal experience, i will tell you, its not too often im dead on with the bolt stretch with the recommended torque values. And ask ARP and they will tell you, bolt stretch is a much more precise and correct way for measuring preload.

;) +1... Torque wrenches measure torque necessary to overcome the friction of the threads rubbing directly against eachother.. that's why ARP Moly is thick as honey (to reduce metal to metal as much as possible, so the actual yeild of the fastener is just reached) so the fastener reaches correct stretch, then you know it's producing the correct clamping force. This is why you measure the length. APR's number are correct and certainly trustworthy. Most of the time a torque wrench is enough though for most street stuff.
 
steve said:
Snug works right up to the point where it's too snug and the head is stripped.
Since we are talking 4G63 the spec is 25 Nm (18 ft.lbs). The 1G manual gives a range of 20-30 Nm (15-21 ft.lbs.)

I didn't know that, Steve. I've always just turned them till I felt the barest resistance, not even using any torqueing force on them. I suppse that was my understanding of the word "snug". I guess I'll have to buy a torque wrench and see for myself what it feels like.
 
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