exhaust manifold studs

and why would that be? i see no real disadvantages with using them. and the exhaust manifold is cast iron i believe, not aluminum

 

The head is aluminum, and stainless causes aluminum to corrode.

 

So you use high temp anti-seize.

 

Yeah, it's so simple, that's why so many auto makers have done this...not.

 

Cost probably plays a bigger part in why auto makers don't use stainless. They dont use Stainless exhaust pipes, down pipes, mufflers or manifolds either so should we not do that either?

 

Actually, a lot of OEM exhaust pipes are stainless (yes, stainless DOES rust, just slower than plain steel). Manifolds being stainless is the only good example of cost, being a massive part. They don't use stainless hardware in aluminum because of galvanic corrosion.

 

Good for them. They're either complete dumbasses or they went the extra mile and have the holes lined with steel thread inserts. Stainless steel threaded into aluminum is a bad idea.

 

Doesn't galvanic corrosion require a conduction solution in order to occur? Like a water, or very salty air (like coastal regions?) Being that it is on the hottest part of the manifold, I would think it stays pretty dry... Maybe I'm wrong though, it's been a long time since I took high school chem.

 

Unless it's in a vacuum, it's constantly exposed to something somewhat conductive.

 

See how they act in 15-20 years...

 

Dont most stud have problems after 20 years?

 

I have been using the SSS all stainless kit for a few years now. Used a small screw extractor to remove an old stud that was broken off below the head's surface. Coated the threads of the new studs that were going into the head with nickel anti-seize, installed them, and I foresee no problem.

Even after those 15 to 20 years, I'd say a couple seized exhaust manifold studs (which are stainless, meaning they're very unlikely to give you trouble anyway, even in terms of heat cycling and embrittlement) are the least of your worries. What's there to lose? Maybe strip the head and have to repair it.

That said, the FFWD/ARP set is probably nicer, but I couldn't justify the price difference for a hex broach; the double nut method works fine. There's still an unused bag of OEM studs/nuts/washers kicking around here somewhere...

 

I just bolted my exhaust manifold back on. Back in 2003 I used a SSStuds kit (I believe back then they shipped SS locking nuts that I stored in my toolbox and used some regular SS nuts instead, but I am not 100% positive on that, other than I have a set of SS locking nuts in my toolbox whose source is not accounted for). Unfortunately back then I over-torqued one of them and stripped the hole in the head, this time I decided to time-sert (regular inserts, not SS) all the threads in the head (with the exclusion of the lower-center one that plugs in the oil galley) and reused the SS studs. I spiced it up with an embossed copper gasket. I'll let you guys know in 25 years how it goes jokes aside, i always used nikel anti-seize and did not have any problem removing the studs. Galvanic corrosion is not a matter of opinion, it will happen. How that is going to affect the bond of the stud with the head and over how much time is another story, Ford probably thought it would outlast the life of their rust buckets anyway! J/K!

 

extream psi has stainless steel arp ones i think, and they are strong and look nice