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Broken exhaust manifold studs

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4gfun

Supporting VIP
2,009
55
Dec 10, 2007
Ask Me, Virginia
I have a few exhaust manifold studs that are broken either flush with the head or further in.

I've never had this happen before and wanted some ideas on getting them out with the head still in the car.

What tools will I need and what should I be prepared for? Tap and die set? Drill bits? Anything else?

Thoughts?

Thanks
 
You will have to drill and use a stud extractor. If you can get it out that way then you just need new studs. Just be carfull and drill perfectly in the center of the broken stud. If it won't come out after that then you might have to drill and either retap or heli-coil it.
 
^This, or try to find a local machine shop. had the same issue with a head I had purchased, had 3 broken in it. Called a machine shop in town and had all three removed for about $30. Was well worth it to not have to fight them myself.
 
I've had very little success with the drill/extractor method. Best way I've found to do it is to weld a bead out from the stud, weld a nut on the end, then turn it out. The heat loosens the broken off stud and everyone I've done that way turned right out easily.
 
Thanks for all the help....the head is on the car and I don't have welding skills *YET* so I will try the drilling and stud extractor method....although I have never used a stud extractor. I guess I will youtube it.
 
Make sure you center punch the studs before trying to drill

+1 on this. Very important step.

If it's not already obvious, remove the radiator and a/c fan too. Makes for more room to align the drill.

Does soaking in liquid wrench the night before help out?

Couldn't hurt. I used PB Blaster when I was dealing with busted studs.

GL :thumb:
 
A good soak in pb blaster an heat will deffinatly makes the process a lil easier. well help youre chances of sucsess anyways.
 
Heat, heat, heat! Glad I could help! Also try Loctite freeze and release. Works wonders for everything! It shock freezes to -45 degrees f. Shrinking the material your working with.
 
Appreciate it all....yep my neighbor gave me some deep creep a month or 2 ago...swears by it.
 
I am a great beliver in SeaFoam Deep creep. There are a few better than DC, and much more a price.

Remember to apply just firm pressure when you start to remove the broken stud, apply too much and breack off the ez-out you will have bigger issues.

Soon as it mooves a short squrit of Deep creep.. let it set a min.. then back and forth and walk it out
 
I am a great beliver in SeaFoam Deep creep. There are a few better than DC, and much more a price.

Remember to apply just firm pressure when you start to remove the broken stud, apply too much and breack off the ez-out you will have bigger issues.

Soon as it mooves a short squrit of Deep creep.. let it set a min.. then back and forth and walk it out

I like liquid wrench alot too...don't know how it compares to DC...Liquid Wrench has helped me over PB Blaster.

All, please expect me to come back...some of the holes look helicoiled, messed up, one has a bigger stud and two of the broken studs are on the right hand side and blocked by what seems to be the PS mount. Remember, this is a GVR-4 which just seems to be more congested than a DSM bay. I always wonder how that makes sense LOL but this engine bay is just so crowded.

Will be back over the next few days/weeks/months etc I am sure since I am a slowpoke and own 4 other cars.

Thanks
 
I had the same problem with the stud broke in the head except it was a arp stud . I drilled the stud tip with a dremel and then used an extractor . It worked and saved a lot of the guess work from retap or coil replacement as it is difficult to get the leveled in their .
 
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