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Evo3 ball joint solution, taper questions inside

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Sirnixalot

10+ Year Contributor
328
11
Jun 5, 2010
Cayman Islands, Central America
Hi guys,

I have all the parts to do this now but i have one last question.

The ball joint taper on the stock ball joint appears to be 8*.

I measured the smallest diameter at 15mm, went down the taper 15mm and measured 17mm which gave me 7.8*. I doubt my caliper was the most accurate.

I have bought 40mm OD weld cups and 5/8" spherical bearings to weld to my control arms.

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I also got GM 1.5" per foot (7*) taper studs

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I am 90% sure that the DSM stock ball joint taper is the same as mine but the K772 ball joint that most people are using without re-reaming the taper in the knuckle, with success it would seem.

Would i be OK with the 1* difference in taper or do i really need to shell out $100 + shipping and %25 import duty for a reamer i will use once.:notgood:

Here is a video of the new stud in a spare/dead knuckle. There is the tiniest bit of play.

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The stock ball joint does not have any play.

Turns out my measuring caliper sucks and i did not press the stud far enough in by hand or something.

I took everything to a machine shop and they measure the angles to be the same.

They also put some machinist dye on a stud

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MUCH better!

Tomorrow they get welded :D
 

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got it sorted!

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I like this a lot!! Seems much cheaper and easier than the k272 mod. Have you considered doing the rears as well? Also, have you considered a solution for bumpsteer correction? If so, Id like to see what you come up with:thumb:
 
Keep in mind this is for an Evo3 not an eclipse, the 1G arms might be similar though.

I have a different suspension setup in the rear compared to the Eclipse so i would have to do something different.

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This is my rear lower arm, the right end connects to the subframe and the left to the hub. I would need to remake a new lower arm with the hub end at an angle.
 

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