2G EU Immobiliser/Anti-theft box thread

[Dihtung Glava]

Hi,

Since I have not seen a dedicated thread for this, I decided to start one.

There's probably not many people on here who own one of these and even fewer who have problems with it, but here goes - I am talking about the immobiliser that came on some European models of the 2G Mitsubishi Eclipse.

This thing:

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It lives behind the dashboard of these select few cars, above the steering column, and causes problems. Well, not if you leave the car stock. But if you swap a 6 bolt turbo engine into it, make a custom 2G wiring harness for it and plug it into a random ECU from a completely separate car - it's going to ruin your year.

My first experience with this thing was in August of 2024. I couldn't get my OBD II port to work, so I hijacked this thread and with some help from @luv2rallye, found that a bunch of wires that were supposed to lead from their respective components, straight to the ECU, were actually ending up here. I unplugged its' single, black, 16-pin connector and jumpered the pink and orange wire I needed to power my OBD II port:

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Then I decided I would hunt down the newfound trouble codes I got from said OBD II port. First on the list was a rear O2 sensor heater fault. That's code P0141. For some reason my BRAND NEW O2 sensor's heater wasn't coming on. An entire afternoon of tracing wires later, I found the non-responsive heater wire once again ended at the immobiliser, instead of the ECU.

So my question now is, since I don't want to keep jumping wires, how do I get this thing to work?

It's present in some rare European wiring diagrams, but its' function is not entirely clear from the diagrams alone. The only traces of it on the internet seem to be junkyards selling it, together with ECUs, keys and ignition switches. This leads me to believe that all 4 are required for it to operate correctly. For some reason mine is letting me drive the car normally, even with a random key and an even more random ECU, but the problems it's causing are getting on my nerves and I want it gone.

Is my only option cutting up the wiring harness and connecting all these wires myself? Or is there a way to get it do its' job and complete these connections when I turn on the car?

Fellow European owners, I summon thee!

 

[Dihtung Glava]

Found a couple European service manuals; one called "CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 54" has a couple pages dedicated to troubleshooting the immobilser. I got it from here.

The troubleshooting steps are irrelevant to me, because mine is not a matter of loosing a key or the transponder giving off the wrong frequency - I need to know how to bypass it. This was the closest thing in that manual to a complete pin-out:

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[Dihtung Glava]

Found some more info on the Immobliser.

Its connector is labeled B-93 in the manuals that have it. Terminal 15 is a yellow wire going to the ABS system and the OBDII port, terminal 14 is pink wire going to joint connector B-08 and then to the OBDII port, terminal 8 is a black ground wire and terminal 16 as well, though I don't have that one on mine for some reason. Terminal 13 is an orange wire that swithes to pink at connector B-63 and then goes to ECU pin 62 and terminal 1 is a red wire for the MPI (Multi-Point Injection) system.

 

[Fomks]

I just bought an 1996 eclipse and am thinking I might have some similar issues as you, the OBD scanner doesn't seem to want to work at all, I'll check to see if it's in my car too! Sometimes my engine won't crank, no noise or anything, but it just won't turn over unless I try anywhere between 1-10 times, and then magically it turns on. It seems possibly related!

Could you tell me if you needed to take off the dash to get to this part? and if not, where exactly did you find it? I read your description but I'm not entirely sure where I should be looking!

 

[Dihtung Glava]

You don't need to take off anything. Just slide your seat all the way to the rear, lay on you back and look up under the dash, above where the pedals attach to the chassis.

If you decide to delete it and re-route the wiring, you will have to remove the dash.

 

[Fomks]

Well shit, I do have one! Maybe it's just you and me that still have one, hahaha. I'll try to see if your jumper trick for reading OBD works, and if so, I'll have to see about removing it entirely... Did you succeed? Or are you still trying to bypass it?

 

[Dihtung Glava]

One of us, one of us, one of us!

Yes, I got mine out entirely. It takes a minute if you are like me and want things done right, because in that case you will be de-pinning connectors and re-routing some wires.

But all in all, it's a pretty straight forward job.