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Eprom ECU Blew up on me -__- anyone know why?

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GsxEcutioner

15+ Year Contributor
1,549
5
Sep 3, 2007
San Bruno, California
My can used to smell fishy, but when I opened it up, it didnt smell, well yesterday I received my DSMlink Lite and I was so happy because my car was running 9afrs all day so I think link would help me tune it out. I opened my ecu to find this.
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Ouch! Either contact ECM or fine a new ECU to use. That damage is pretty bad. Were you having any electrical issues before and how long was that smell going on for? The smell is capacitors burning up IIRC.
 
i think that is the ICS driver a bad ics can cause that to blow out... maybe some one with a 1g can verify... or post that pic up on the dsmlink forum and someone there will be able to tell you forsure
 
those capacitors and the board around them are mint, they are most likely fine. what blew is a high current driver for some kind of sensor or device. most likely the IAC being too low of ohms, putting extra current draw on that IC, and bam! there is a page that lists what drivers control what. when i find it i'll post a link up.

EDIT: damn everyone beat me to it!

IC104 is MAF reset (turbo only)
IC105 is ISC coils B1 and B2
IC106 is Boost Control and Fuel Pressure solenoids(turbo only)
IC107 is ISC coils A1 and A2
IC108 is Purge and EGR solenoids
IC109 is A/C and Fuel pump relays

so you know what coils in the ISC will be bad by which driver blew.
 
I nvr put the Link in yet, I was about to, until I opened it up, It was a Key diver chip in it before. and I used to smell Fish for maybe 6 months? but when I smelt the board nothing, but in the car, itd be faint, I just ordered another Eprom from a gvr4 memeber, but I am wanting to find out what caused this before I put anything back into the car. I never had electrical problems, but CEL would come on from time to time, but no CEL lately.......Should I replace the ISC? and will this fix it? the local shop told me my ISC is going, because my idle isnt steady all the time.
-Shane

btw, do you all think this would cause my car to run rich ALL the time?
 
Eric, I thought the fishy smell was leaking caps and with the caps leaking onto the board could cause a short. That's what I thought anyway.

Since the ICS drive is what went out and from what Ramsack and Eric said, you should test your ICS to verify it's good before putting in the new board. Might want to see if any fuses possibly went out as well. That's all I can really think of but you'll get better info as well.
 
Leaking capacitors do cause a fishy smell, but I can't see the board clearly enough to see if there is any leakage damage. The ISC driver is most definitely blown though, most likely due to a bad ISC.

GsxEcutioner, test the ISC per the link above and replace it if it's bad. If you don't replace the ISC and put a new ecu in, it will just blow the ISC driver again.
 
i think that is the ICS driver a bad ics can cause that to blow out... maybe some one with a 1g can verify... or post that pic up on the dsmlink forum and someone there will be able to tell you forsure

You're right Adam, that is exactly what it is. The same thing happened to me from a dead ISC.

*Edit: Do no plug another ECU into your car with that same ISC or you'll damage the next ECU as soon as you turn the key on. Ask me how I know..

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I am going to order a new isc anyways. When I took it out, it was charcoal colored and its been idle jumping for quite some time.
-Shane

a new ISC at Mitsu is $6xx.xx . -__- FML.
 
You're right Adam, that is exactly what it is. The same thing happened to me from a dead ISC.

*Edit: Do no plug another ECU into your car with that same ISC or you'll damage the next ECU as soon as you turn the key on. Ask me how I know..

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i thought that looked like alot like yours did Dustin LOL
 
The car starts and Runs, it just runs really rich, I have no idea how long the ecu was like this, All I know is I opened it yesterday and thats what it looked like.
 
I am going to order a new isc anyways. When I took it out, it was charcoal colored and its been idle jumping for quite some time.
-Shane

a new ISC at Mitsu is $6xx.xx . -__- FML.

Check here: DSMISC

Rock Auto also has them for cheap, not sure if they are OEM units but I've never heard anything bad about them.

My ECU still works so i guess I got lucky, I just have no idle control so startups can be a bi*** with the 272's. It hasn't been bad enough for me to send it out to be fixed though.
 
The car starts and Runs, it just runs really rich, I have no idea how long the ecu was like this, All I know is I opened it yesterday and thats what it looked like.

So much the better. Get the driver replaced, any vaporized traces repaired and the ECU cleaned. Check the current ISC coil resistances to make sure it's not a wire problem and put a new ISC in.

This isn't likely the cause of it running rich.
 
The car starts and Runs, it just runs really rich, I have no idea how long the ecu was like this, All I know is I opened it yesterday and thats what it looked like.

Runs really rich? Is your coolant temp sensor hooked up? The one for the ECU, not the gauge in the cluster.

I'm going to have to send you my ECU soon Steve. It would be nice to have a working ISC again.
 
my coolant temp sensor is BRAND NEW, yes Steve I will check everything again, but I did order one just for Peace of mind LOL.
 
You'll likely need the new ISC but the point of checking the old one is to make sure it's really the source of the short and not your wiring harness. That can happen too.

Log your coolant sensor. It doesn't matter if it's new, it can still be reporting bad information due to the wires being old, brittle and corroded or broken inside the insulation.
 
ok will do, how long does it take to check the isc? and I have logged the temp sensor, it reads 170-205 ish, my last one read -41* and ish
 
depends on how comfortable you are with a multimeter. You have to measure four sets of resistances, one for each coil in the ISC. There are 6 pins with the two middle pins (one in each row of three) that is common for the two outer pins. You measure the resistance between pins 1 and 2, 2 and 3, 4 and 5, 5 and 6. A good coil will measure between 28 and 40 ohms depending on the model of ISC. Anything below 20 ohms is bad, 0 ohms a short, and higher than 40 ohms a problem but not dangerous to the ECU.
 
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