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Engine will not start. 98 Mit E ,NT

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Mit98E

Probationary Member
3
0
Aug 14, 2007
Auburndale, Florida
My son spun a bearing on #3 cylinder ruined the crank . Stock Engine, we replaced the shortblock with another 99 E , during assenbly I got bit by the ^UP^ marks on the Cam Gears engine sounded like the plugs were not in... Ok so I checked the location of the cam lobes and sure enough, the intake and exhaust were opening at the same time. So I changed the cam timing where the Dowel holes in the cams were straight up and the Crank Shaft was a half tooth BTDC. I used a Noid to make sure the #1 fuel injector was firing Just as the Intake valve opened. that was spot on.. Let me know If I am wrong. I had a 4cylinder engine that #1 and #4 would fire at the same time. one on compression and one on Exhaust. I think this engine does the same.. I have been told the crank should be 3 teeth , I have Haynes and they say that is only so you can spin the cams without slamming piston's into valves.. I am trying to get the engine to fire without the Valve Cover and the Harmonic Balancer and covers on the front.. should still Fire Right? I have fuel pressure but I will check to see how much.. The Plugs are Firing when removed. There fore I have Air, Fuel and Ignition. Thanks for your Help..:confused: :confused:

forgot to mention that all cylinders check at 140 Psi..
The check engine light don't come on, But the code reader with switch off Says SW C916 which is Low current to gear position.. I think..
Installed Vacuum Gauge and Vacuum gage flutters at the 0 area while cranking...
The Noid still shows firing of the injectors..
Ok checked timing and reset one tooth , the engine cranks now and runs rough, there is no Harmonic Balancer Yet.
What is a easy way to tell if #1 is TDC or if #4 is , Ok it is when the Dowel pin holes are up on the cam , Right?
 
Ok this was strange but now the engine runs.. The Noid had to be on the #1 Fuel injector wires then the engine would fire. At that time I did get a P0201 (#1 fuel injector not firing)
then I could hookup the injector wire and it would pick up #1 and run. Now it is restarting .Ok with no check engine light.. Thanks for the Help.
 
The Engine ran fine for 400 miles. We pulled it up on ramps and shut it down. after fixing the Valve cover front side leak we reassembled it and tried to fire it up .. Nothing but spin. I checked the fuel pump and it is running . I checked the Cam sensor and it was ok Checked coils .. NO Spark then i used a test light on the center and outside pins of the coil plug in. Nothing.. Please Help... also checked the Crankshaft position Sensor nothing .. The fuel injectors are firing..
 
well if you get no response out of the crank position sensor, first check for reference voltage on the sensor. my dsm when i got it had a blown ECU and sent 7V to all the sensors,and the car ran like crap. the crank position sensor being bad would DEF. cause a no-start condition, and seeing as the ECU has no idea where TDC is, won't send a signal to the coils to fire....

i'd start with diagnostic checks on the crank position sensor if you say there's no response from it. backpin the wire and hook a test light... it'll pull low on TDC, so the light should flicker when you try to crank the car...
 
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