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rebuilt engine will not start after warmed up

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bumpinlazer

Probationary Member
25
0
Oct 3, 2004
clarksville, Tennessee
:confused: OK here is my problem I have a 90 laser with a rebuilt engine with less than 50 miles on it and i am having trouble starting after its warmed up. I will let the car warm up and take it on a little drive get home shut it off and it will not start for nothing. I have to let it sit a day or two then it will start right back up.

Did a boost leak test no leaks
has a new coil
smells like fuel on spark plugs


I need help please give me ideas i really want to get it running i have been messing around with this for months:confused:
 
i will look in the morning but dont know how they could be leaking it will start fine after sitting for awhile
 
I said the same thing . Been there , replaced that . Mine would do the same thing . It would start , run fine . Then not restart . Sometimes it would be fine for days . Then no start again . Easy thing to eliminate .
 
try unpluging the vacume line fron the pressure regulator next time and see if it starts up. i believe the silonoid that it goes to is the purge valve silonoid.i had the same problem and replaced the siloinoid closest to the fenderwell that the vacume line on the regulator goes to.The engine is vapor locking and not getting cooler air as it was described to me.
 
ok i have attached pictures of ECU i do not see any than leaking maybe you guys can see something
showimage.php


i have also attached pictures of spark plugs these are brand new with about 10 miles on them plus the smell and have fuel on them i think this is my problem just know what the problem is
showimage.php
 
ok i have attached pictures of ECU i do not see any than leaking maybe you guys can see something
showimage.php


i have also attached pictures of spark plugs these are brand new with about 10 miles on them plus the smell and have fuel on them i think this is my problem just know what the problem is
showimage.php
 

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from here it looks like the ecu isn't bad.... the parts you should worry about, and look around, are the three cannister shapped things (capacitors) in the middle close to the wiring harness connector, if you don't see nasty crap on the board around those, you're most likely good to go on the ecu.
 
this may be a bit of a long shot, but I had a car (not a DSM) that would do something very similar and it turned out to be the Crank Position Sensor, once the engine hit a certain temp it would just quit, and not start again until it cooled off a bit... again, this car wasn't a DSM, a Mitsubishi or a Chrysler... but it might be something to look into... seems like this ones been hauntin ya for a while, so it couldn't hurt to check it out
 
Something that hasn't been asked but should have been. By not starting do you mean the engine turns over but won't fire or do you mean when you turn the key nothing happens?
 
u have the same problem that i had with my eclipse. Its ## EGR valve its gone bad.. seriously replace that everything will go smooth.. :dsm:
 
it will turn over but not start

i will look at the EGR Valve but i should just be able to remove it right and what would the erg vavle have anything to do with it?
 
um i wish you would jsut try my sugestion.my engine would restart after it had completely cool down.would cold start perfect but after running errands it would not restart till completely cooling back down.The fuel system was vaporlocked.replacing the silonoid i mentioned above fixed the problem.its worth a try.next time you warm the car up and she wont start just unplug the vacume line from the FPR and see if it starts.
 
You may also want to check the connections at your coolant temp sensor (the one with 2 wires going to it just under the thermostat housing). If the wires are broken, the ECU will default to a cold start setting and start dumping fuel. My son's GST had the same problem. It would start when it was cold, but as soon as it warmed up, it wouldn't restart. I hope this helps.
 
Just to toss this out so you could eliminate it, Check the connections on the coolent temp sensor, just recently I pulled my intake and a few other things off my motor to install something and when I put it all back together and drove it, It was fine the first two days but outa no where it was hard to start and ran rich like yours. Im just thinking it could have been overlooked because you just put the motor in. Without it plugged up and working the car runs like its -30 Outside wich will basicly make it REALY rich.
 
ok i have checked the coolant temp sensor and nothing is wrong with the wiring and the sensor is ok

any other ideas
 
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