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Engine removal

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volcakid8787

10+ Year Contributor
34
0
Feb 25, 2009
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Hey everybody, I'm writing as I am finally starting my build.

I had somewhat of a troubled time removing my engine. I have the Haynes manual and a "service manual," that my brother bought me for Christmas. Neither were helpful in the least. I thought I'd share my experience to the best of my recollection to hopefully help anyone else.

I should first mention that I had my head already removed. I followed this forum for the head removal and it was VERY helpful: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/185236-head-removal-mini-engine-rebuild.html. Not that you need to remove your head before you remove your engine...I'm just saying!

Anyways, I had most of the wiring harness and the vacuum lines removed because of this.

The main components I had to left to remove were the main coolant line(the one that runs across the engine), the oil lines and the ac compressor(tie this up without removing the refrigerant lines so its out of the way...I tied mine to the hood latch). I wanted to see if I could take the engine out without the transmission. I tried removing all the transmission-to-engine bolts and I still couldn't quite get them fully separated. I found out that trans-axle assembly(I think that is what it was) was running into the oil pain. Next, I removed the trans-axle. After this, the engine was clearly able to be broken free from the transmission. I used a friend with a heavy duty flat head screw driver to pry the engine away as I lifted it out of the engine bay with a cherry picker.

I've read that it is better to take the engine out with the transmission attached. If anyone could shed more light on this, I would appreciate it.

So anyways, I just wanted to share. I will be posting more as I am trying to learn as much as I can before I order parts. Thanks.
 
From my experience, if you remove just the transaxle, pull it out from the bottom. If you're pulling it with the engine, pull it from the top. I did this today even, got a new long block that I test drove before pulling it out for my car. Also, since you got a 1g, pulling the trans out without removing the front and rear roll stop mounts doesn't leave you much room to wiggle the trans around to clear the clutch/ flywheel.
 
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When I first started workin on dsm, it was a 2g Esi. The transmission was out, and I tried taking the transmission (yeah yeah its not the engine blah blah) out without just pulling everything out through the top which not only would have saved me a ton more time, but it would have been alot easier to to reconnect everything like the fly wheel and clutch. I dropped it through the bottom, but it took me 2 8 hour sessions, I ran into a TON of snags due to lack of room and stuff I thought I needed, but didn't, the engine still in the car was just a pita.

I took out my 7bolt and tranny from my other GST did it from the top, swapped transmissions, put it in from the top 5 hours later drove it. Pretty much pull em both from the top with a lift, you'll be glad you did.
 
+1 on load leveler. I got mine from Summit Racing and it makes pulling the engine/trans a breeze. Just remove both of them together at an angle. Should take a few minutes once you get it all hooked up.
 
Did not have an engine lift, so went with lowering engine/tranny on the floor using floor jacks, jacked up the front of the car high enough (abour 3 feet) to drag the assemply from under it, then lowered the car. Took about a day even though pretty much everything else was pulled out of the engine bay the day before.
Long story short: don't do it that way. Go through the top.
 
I have a 97 eagle talon tsi and I'm pulling my engine tomorrow. I'm wondering where should I hook up the straps on the engine? I was going to leave the intake and exhaust manifolds on and wrap the straps around that because I couldn't find anywhere better. Anuone know where I should really put it?
 
When I pulled the motor on my 2g I ran into issues with the back motor mount but had old motor and tranny pulled out, tranny removed and stuck on new motor and back in and running within 8-10 hrs I don't remember now but from the top is the easiest way to pull it and makes putting the tranny on the motor a lot Easyer!!!
 
Ok so I managed to pull it with one 15ft tow strap. I wrapped it around the entire engine twice then I wrapped it around the power steering bracket for slack adjustment and used the alternator bolt so it wohldnt slip. Took me ten mins to get it out after ivgot all the bolts out. And no mine doesn't have any of these brackets on it. It did have a 95 engine in it but I'm buying one from a 98 on Tuesday.
 
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