engine removal [Merged 7-9]

[bnpimpn]

i was told that to remove the engine out of my car that you have to pull the engine out through the bottom of the car...is this true???? how long does it ussually take to remove and put a different motor in these cars??

 

[drivemusicnow]

I've got most the work done... I have the haynes manual, and its pretty worthless as far as telling you how to do things. I wanted any hints, tips, and suggestions as far as actually removing the motor/trans and info on removing the halfshafts and driveshaft. I have experience in working on engines, but not to much drivetrain stuff... any help would be appreciated.

 

[BUCK]

Drop the entire Assembly DOWN - shitcan the Haynes - get a Mitsu Manual which is slightly better.

 

[drivemusicnow]

i dont' see how theres possibly enough room to drop both down...obviously removing the front axles and transfer case, and taking the driveshaft out is neccesary... but i still don't see how you can drop it down.. isn't the sub frame in the way?

 

[Bostedquest]

i dont' see how theres possibly enough room to drop both down...obviously removing the front axles and transfer case, and taking the driveshaft out is neccesary... but i still don't see how you can drop it down.. isn't the sub frame in the way?

You can go either way, up or down.
Just personal preferance on the remover.

I personally would go Up.
Remove the front and rear carrier bearings. This will allow alot of slack to remove the driveshaft.
Then remove the T case.
Pop the lower ball joints and pull the front shafts.
remove/unbolt the DP.
Then it is to the shifter cables, harnesses, intercooler pipes and what ever god else is in the way.
Then once the engine/trans is bolted to a lift, remove the motor mounts, and lift.

If you are removing for a rebuild, I would suggest taking the engine out in parts.
IE intake, exhaust mani and head seperately.
Leaving the block and trans as one unit.
Doing it like that is more time consuming, but you can get to ALOT of the parts ALOT easier. Not to mention have an assload of more room to work with while pulling the motor trans.

 

[Lunch_Box]

I dropped my engine down, I had the head taken off though. It was a lot easier then then bringing it up.

 

[Maglin]

I wouldn't even bother removing the carrier bearings. Just drop the T-Case and leave it attached to the drive shaft. Then you don't have to worry about your gear oil leaking out of the T-Case. I went up with mine. Much easier and I have a cherry picker. Just make sure you have the knock sensor unhooked as it's very well hidden and I made the mistake of tearing the connector out of the wiring harness. I ended up modifiying the EGR-T conector and used it for my new Knock sensor connector. Also unbolt the clutch line bracket that is on the passenger side wheel well so you can move it forward and the engine removal will be cake. I didn't do that when I removed it and I had a hell of a time. But the install with it removed was so easy. Other than that I can't think of anything. Oh remove the alternator as that will free up some room to rotate the motor out of the engine bay. I didn't have a engine leveler so I had to use a chain and droping the tranny down to remove and install it wasn't to much of an option and the alternator installed made it harder to pull. Removed it went in very nicely.

 

[drivemusicnow]

OK... so i'm ready to pull it I believe. My problem is that i've removed the 5 t-case bolts.. and have no idea why it doesn't want to come off.. i'm trying to slide it out to the drivers side like it says, but can't get anywhere with it. any suggestions?

Also, I have ABS... havne't removed it yet, and would like to keep it in the bay.. it looks as if there may be enough room without removing it, anybody with experience>?

- -

 

[RoasT BeeF]

Sounds like the T-case is just rusted on. The output shaft sometimes rusts to the input on the xfercase. Just get a large prybar and she should come right off.

 

[spyder97gs]

I was sure what the best section would be to put this in, so i'm putting it in here. I'm about to pull me first engine/tranny on my 4g64 spyder and drop new ones in. Is a 9 foot ceiling clearance gonna be enough to lift the motor/tranny out of the car? I want to do this in my garage if possible. Thanks...

 

[Bostedquest]

if you can lift the hood fullyand have 1-2 feet left, you have enough room.

 

[spyder97gs]

Got that much room. Thanks

 

[whitetiger777]

I'm currently in the process of switching out one 7-bolt engine for another 7-bolt. I'm just curious, some one told me I had to remove my transfer case before I could lift the engine and trans out of my car. I was wondering wouldn't be easyer to just drop the drive line and take out the transfer case with the engine and tranny all at the same time? Can this even be done? Or is it just better to remove the transfer case first?

 

[olmytsi]

Taking a transfer case off takes about 10 minutes (just unbolt and pry slowly off the shaft and just lay it on the floor gently. Drop that since it is attached to the driveshaft and then pull the motor with the trans attached. If the car is manual you have 5 bolts on the transfer case. I heard 6 bolts for the auto trans...not completely sure.

 

[Omega]

If you want to get the engine up and out then yes, it all needs to be taken apart. If you want to keep everything together, drop the engine and raise the car.

 

[Justins99GSX]

just did this about a week ago...(BS belt snapped and did a number to my head ). Anyways VFAQ has a guide on the 1g AWD removal... I followed most of it and improvised on the differences... yes you can remove the the engine with X-fer case attached just make sure you remove the radiator

Good Luck its not too hard...
Justin

 

[Spookcorleone]

The front remove bracket is gone from my car - and I was wondering where is a good location. A buddy of mine said to simply grab it from both the manifolds and get it out.

Figured I would run this noob question by you guys.

 

[ArticNemesis]

I'm not positive if a 2g is the same or not.

On the power steering pump bracket, there is a bolt hole where the bracket bolts up to it. I just attached the chain with a bolt to that bracket to lift out the motor out.

Or if you pull the power steering pump out of the way, one of the bolts that attaches the ps. bracket to the block is a great place to attach the chain.

 

[dr1665]

I'm not positive if a 2g is the same or not.

On the power steering pump bracket, there is a bolt hole where the bracket bolts up to it. I just attached the chain with a bolt to that bracket to lift out the motor out.

Or if you pull the power steering pump out of the way, one of the bolts that attaches the ps. bracket to the block is a great place to attach the chain.

I would look into something like that. Using either of the manifolds to support the weight of the engine is probably not the best idea, whether it will hold or not.

 

[eclipsh]

Pulling my engine I ran one end of the chain to one of the tranny bolts and the other to a timing belt side engine mount bolt. The chain was pushing against the upper timing belt cover but didn't damage it. If you're replacing the timing belt though I'd say just pull the upper cover and let the chain push against the timing belt. It kept the engine very level.

 

[1998GSXR]

on a 1998 gsx, is it possible to just pull the motor or does everything have to come out, also if everything has to come up does it go out the bottom or top.

I just have no idea, i have the article from the vfaqs but its not helping too much. If anyone out there has a tech article when they did their 2g that would be awesome. Thanks

 

[Deanob]

Your going to want to grab it left to right so you can tilt it out (incase you have ABS). So Tranny mount and drivers side mount. Watch for the timing belt, make sure you protect it.

 

[Quasimondo]

I would look into something like that. Using either of the manifolds to support the weight of the engine is probably not the best idea, whether it will hold or not.

It'll hold. The lift brackets are bolted to the manifolds.

 

[knighteclipse1]

First let me say that I have searched the forum for the information i desire and have only found parts of what i need. I have just purchased a 1996 eagle talon tsi auto with a engine which has crankwalk. I am going to put in a 6 bolt jdm. I am searching for any information on the exact procedures and order in which i remove the engine, I have several items already removed, but have a long ways to go. I have a haynes repair manual. but it is pretty much useless in this regard, Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[DSMcrazy3]

Haynes manual should be your best friend right now, since you can have it with you while you work.

When I've helped my buddies remove an engine, it's been pretty straight forward. Time consuming, but not too bad.

I would say just try and get all the pumps off the motor, intake and exhaust manifold off, radiator and fans out so you'll have more room, then begin inhooking the grounds and wiring harness, then shift linkage, and mounts and out she comes.

I'm pretty sure I missed something, but you probably get the jist.

 

[weith1111]

Hmm, I'm going to disagree:

Axles out
Wiring unplugged
Hoses undone that stay in the engine bay
Motor mounts undone
Anything else super obvious that can't come with the motor


Pull the motor with everything on it, manifolds, tranny, etc, it will wiggle out, have faith.

I do recommend getting the radiator out first though, or else it will get the crap banged out of it.