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420A Engine misfire don’t know what to do at this point

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estuardowrld

Proven Member
128
17
Jun 11, 2023
Southgate, California
Hey everyone i’m gonna keep this short. Basically i did an auto to manual swap everything ran perfect until i took on the freeway. Came back i got 6 codes 2 Misfires 4 Codes for each cylinder. Swapped out Plugs, Fuel filter, Wires, Ignition coil, Cam sensor Crank sensor, So once I erased the codes and drove it on the freeway the light came back on and it started flashing 3 times pause and flashed another 3 times. It seems to only happen when i take it to 4 or 5th gear is may be wrong.
 
If your exhaust manifold is cracked badly the o2 sensor will never read correctly.

I’m just assuming because you said your header is cracked to shit. The o2 sensor isn’t getting the correct reading and is throwing fuel at your car to try to get the o2 sensor to read correctly thus flooding your car.

Fix your exhaust first

-Daniel
Okay i will get to that today. only thing is i need the down pipe welded
 
.042" is on the small side for a 420a plug gap. I preferred .046" with the stock ignition system. Higher voltage/amperage ignition .050" is fine, but it looks stock in your image besides NGK wires which aren't doing much.

I'm also curious if it runs any better with the new exhaust header. The crack could have caused a false lean reading from the O2 and add extra fuel.

People are screaming to check timing but I don't think there is an issue. If timing were off even one tooth it would sound cammed, misfire and lack power regardless of engine/vehicle speed. You can still check or replace the belt and components for preventative purposes but that is not the issue at hand.

If the issue is still present I can throw out a few ideas, but I'm not flooding this post if the solution has now been found.

Edit: I'm also seeing that your O2 wire is too close to the exhaust header. It is definitely going to melt if you do not move it away. I melted a new sensor wire some years back because of my header and learned to zip tie it with distance.
 
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Hey what’s up guys sorry for late response. Today i got the down pipe welded and well so far so good. Gonna take it to the freeway tomorrow morning. Also the nasty smog/gas smell is gone.
So how big was the crack? All my 420a stock headers were always cracked from the top but lambdas were still reading within specs.

Glad you got it figured out though
 
Hey everyone so now i got another issue i just installed the manifold right and replaced the gasket but this is the noise it’s making
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really hard to say from the video but my guess is exhaust leak somewhere near the downpipe or flex pipe, also is that nut fully sealed which is on the side of the aftermarket manifold?
 
i think i’m losing myself fixing this car
We've probably all been there before. The newest 2g DSM is 24 years old now. That's why at a certain point I decided to strip it down and race it. The problems did not lessen though LOL

If you've already replaced the crank sensor then I wouldn't assume it's bad again unless it was a poor quality part. I would check fuel pressure at the rail. There is a fitting you can hook a gauge to for testing. Also check for spark at each spark plug. I know you already mentioned somewhere you checked compression and it was good. Make sure the fuel is delivering, the spark is occurring and I bet your problem is there, last case check the timing but it doesn't sound you've jumped timing.
 
If you have already stated this and I missed it I apologize
But I had misfire, crappy idle and stalling issues with my car just recently and it ended up being clogged injectors. I swapped everything other than the injectors to fix my issue with no luck and didn’t want to waste my time checking the injectors because they were new. So if you have a set you can swap from a good running car to check I would suggest looking into it or sending them to be cleaned and tested
 
Here's another thing to check because my car was doing exactly what you stated. It ended up being the ecu because it wouldn't start anymore and I lost power to the fuel pump I hard wired it and it still wouldn't start. Just a thought before you give up.
 
Here's another thing to check because my car was doing exactly what you stated. It ended up being the ecu because it wouldn't start anymore and I lost power to the fuel pump I hard wired it and it still wouldn't start. Just a thought before you give up.
He stated that it was having a similar issue with the other ecu (manual & ecu swap). Not impossible but much less likely in this situation.
 
He stated that it was having a similar issue with the other ecu (manual & ecu swap). Not impossible but much less likely in this situation.
Oh that's right good catch he may be good then. I've been reading through but it's starting to get long.
 
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