420A Engine misfire don’t know what to do at this point

[estuardowrld]

Hey everyone i’m gonna keep this short. Basically i did an auto to manual swap everything ran perfect until i took on the freeway. Came back i got 6 codes 2 Misfires 4 Codes for each cylinder. Swapped out Plugs, Fuel filter, Wires, Ignition coil, Cam sensor Crank sensor, So once I erased the codes and drove it on the freeway the light came back on and it started flashing 3 times pause and flashed another 3 times. It seems to only happen when i take it to 4 or 5th gear is may be wrong.

 

[estuardowrld]

Yeah the last thing i’ve touched is anything fuel related. I ended up leaving the car in a parking lot. I’m not gonna give up on it. Do you guys think maybe the CAI or The headers caused the issue. Also i didn’t mention it had a P0443 code

 

[Sirius1995]

Yeah the last thing i’ve touched is anything fuel related. I ended up leaving the car in a parking lot. I’m not gonna give up on it. Do you guys think maybe the CAI or The headers caused the issue. Also i didn’t mention it had a P0443 code

Purge control valve issue, will develop gas smell definitely, it's in a part in evap system, which is emission related mostly, will also help fuel economy and monitor gas tank pressure

 

[estuardowrld]

Update. Towed my car inside my garage again. The car wants to start but it can’t it like sputters. Now the oil light is on whenever i put the key in.

 

[Sirius1995]

Update. Towed my car inside my garage again. The car wants to start but it can’t it like sputters. Now the oil light is on whenever i put the key in.

It supposed to be on when engine is not running since there's no oil pressure, if it sputters you have either problem on ignition side or Air/Fuel ratio/delivery, did you fix your vacuum leaks yet? And if I remember right you did compression test on all cylinders and it was around 180, right?

 

[estuardowrld]

At this point i think i have a bigger issue. So i disconnected the MAP sensor and boom the engine started. But it makes like a burbling/ spluttering noise from the intake. And then it sounds like it’s gasping for air and a horrible smell of un burnt fuel fills the air with white smoke. And when i plug the MAP sensor the car dies. So i bought a new one and it still does the same damn thing.

 

[chrysler kid]

i think i’m losing myself fixing this car

Youre missing an exhaust stud thats why it sounds like shit and has a worse exhaust leak

You cant just leave bolts missing and expect everything to be fine

Where is the front oxygen sensor? Is it hooked up where its suppose to be?

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[estuardowrld]

Yeah i figured that out a while ago

 

[chrysler kid]

Yeah i figured that out a while ago

Did you run out of gas. What does the gas gauge say

What other bolts did you out? Is the front oxygen sensor hooked up?

 

[estuardowrld]

No i didn’t run out of gas. I just missed that bolt. But the car is idk man like it starts without the MAP sensor but it runs like shit

 

[TuskeeTuner]

Can you monitor real time values with your code scanner? You need so compare/correlate the values you're observing with the components the ECU says is faulty.
Start with a healthy battery. Sometimes a bad power supply can throw stuff off. One problem can definitely throw many different codes and can be confusing. Correct one problem at a time. If the MAP sensor shuts off the car, either the sensor is bad or you have a serious vacuum leak.

 

[estuardowrld]

Can you monitor real time values with your code scanner? You need so compare/correlate the values you're observing with the components the ECU says is faulty.
Start with a healthy battery. Sometimes a bad power supply can throw stuff off. One problem can definitely throw many different codes and can be confusing. Correct one problem at a time. If the MAP sensor shuts off the car, either the sensor is bad or you have a serious vacuum leak.

That’s the thing i put in my big boy scanner and it can’t establish a connection with the car. How would i test vaccum leaks?

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Check vacuum leaks by spraying (misting) water/carb cleaner/BPC around any area that could leak. That can be hoses or the intake manifold to head or a throttle body gasket, but the point is, if you spray around a leak, the motor will either speed up or slow down, indicating the leak is close to where you are spraying at.

 

[estuardowrld]

Gonna do this today along with fuel injector test

 

[Sirius1995]

Check vacuum leaks by spraying (misting) water/carb cleaner/BPC around any area that could leak. That can be hoses or the intake manifold to head or a throttle body gasket, but the point is, if you spray around a leak, the motor will either speed up or slow down, indicating the leak is close to where you are spraying at.

Or just rent vacuum gauge from AZ, O'Reilly's etc and check the readings and do it properly in this case

 

[estuardowrld]

Just checked my injectors there at 12.3 all 4 of them

 

[Sirius1995]

Just checked my injectors there at 12.3 all 4 of them

A bit higher end but temperature always affects for the reading, your injectors are fine as they are high resistance injectors so we can count that issue out, now you should check your vacuum lines, there's vacuum line diagrams in this forum as PDF files

 

[Sirius1995]

If you hook up your vacuum tester any intake manifold vacuum source after throttle body, you should get good readings, I'm sure there's a YouTube instructions how to use it

 

[estuardowrld]

Did a final hail mary and swapped the ecu for the auto and the car started. Guessing it’s the junkyard ecu

 

[Sirius1995]

Did a final hail mary and swapped the ecu for the auto and the car started. Guessing it’s the junkyard ecu

There's one pin you have to swap around when you do at - mt swap, did you do that?

 

[estuardowrld]

If i remember right. if i got the same year ecu but in MT it would just be plug n play. I’d have to only wire the speed sensor and the ground wire so it could start. So i did all of those things so it’s strange why the ECU failed in the first place

 

[Sirius1995]

If i remember right. if i got the same year ecu but in MT it would just be plug n play. I’d have to only wire the speed sensor and the ground wire so it could start. So i did all of those things so it’s strange why the ECU failed in the first place

I thought you had to short neutral switch wire too, somebody correct me if I'm wrong

 

[jesse12345]

Did a final hail mary and swapped the ecu for the auto and the car started. Guessing it’s the junkyard ecu

Mine literally was doing that last week and I swapped the ecu and it started also. Such a weird deal and was my last thing to check.

 

[estuardowrld]

Mine literally was doing that last week and I swapped the ecu and it started also. Such a weird deal and was my last thing to check.

right??? this is the 3rd ecu that has failed on my car. I think ima order a new one from rock auto. Thank you to everyone for helping me with this issue i learned a lot

 

[chrysler kid]

Make sure the connectors to the ecu arent loose, might explain why swapping around ecu's fixes the problem temporarily