YungTlon
5+ Year Contributor
- 104
- 12
- Mar 6, 2018
-
Pueblo,
Colorado
Hello all. I’m sure this post is beating a dead horse but I wanted to make this post regarding my exact situation . So here’s the plan for the engine
It is at a pretty badass machine shop as we speak
Alignhone for the mains
Either a hone or a bore depending what machinist thinks
And it’s getting decked
As far as the engine modifications go :
Manley turbo tuff rods
Manley 9.0:1 pistons
Manley crank
Kiggly main girdle
Arp main studs
New OEM oil pump , will be deburing gears
7bolt oil strainer / pickup tube (6 bolt discontinued)
Arp L19 Head studs
Felpro prematorque MLS headgasket
Stock valves
Bc 280 cams
Bc springs and retainers
Adjustable cam gears
Revised OR 2g oem lifters (planning to rev the motor highish)(8700-9200RPM)
Speed density setup
MOST LIKEY GOING TO PURCHASE :
Jmf intake manifold / s90 74mm tb.
GETTING MOTOR READY FOR FIRST START :
Probably going to have the machine shop assemble the bottom end.
When installing the oil pump gonna pack the oil pump with Vaseline and install the engine and attach a drill/impact and build oil pressure that way before the first fire of the motor.
With that being said it’ll probably take me a hour or two to install the belt correctly , give it it’s rotations, check belt and tensioner . And then re install timing cover all the drive / serpentine belts. And basically get the engine ready for the first fire .
THE FIRST START AND BREAK IN :
Now this is where it gets interesting for me ! so as stated above I plan on priming the oil pump with a drill but by the time it takes me to re install all the stuff to take it for the first drive (stated above) won’t priming the oil pump have been useless because everything drained back down already? Or is priming the oil pump only so that all the oil gallery’s and cams / rockers and all important stuff gets some lubrications so obviously there won’t be a “dry” start?
On top of that, now we are going into break in methods for a fresh motor .
I plan on following this link : http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
As many of you have already stated is proven to work. I plan on starting the motor and I know you’re not supposed to let them idle on a fresh motor . SO I plan on letting it run for a couple seconds and then starting the fluctuation of rpms from “1500-4000rpm” for as long as it takes for the car to get to operating temp (216 Fahrenheit water temp) and then taking it for a drive . And on that drive it is going to be a short one 15-20 Miles max. And I plan on laying into some boost to seat the rings as recommend . After I get home from that drive I will park the car and change the oil using break in oil or just cheap oil that has good zinc /additive contents. After this the next time I start my car am I still not allowed to let it idle? How long do I have to fluctuate the rpms from 1500-4000 instead of letting it idle??
HERE IS MY PROBLEM!
On the cars old setup it was STOCK everything as far as the internals I’d the motor . Bone stock head and bone stock rotating assembly.
This was paired with a pair of fic 2150cc injectors
And a gt3582. The car ran good and was tuned on a Gm 3” maf on 25psi. Tial mvs 38mm EWG .E85
On the new motor it is going to get a Pte 6266 .82 ar and a speed density setup , the new cams and the higher compression pistons . My problem is if I keep the car on the gm maf and the old turbo setup that it was tuned on (JUST for a quick break in). Could I load the old tune to the computer and use it on low boost just for break in without seeing a dramatic change in the tune? I just want to break in the motor right and have a safe tune on it and the tune for 25 psi was always healthy when I turned it down to 10-16 psi . I guess my main question is will the bump in compression, the cams and the intake manifold and bigger tb make the old tune unsafe even if I turn down the boost and be nice to it.. I’m kind of at a stand still because the car is getting a completely new setup and would like to give the car the proper break In by ripping on it just a little bit but I’m sure you understand what I’m getting at as the NEW setup will neeed a whole new tune with the bigger turbo and so on and so fourth . I am also aware you’re supposed to let the engine brake itself as in when driving bring the rpms up and then don’t shift and allow the rpms to drag down by themselves as this is believed to create a strong vacuum that will suck the debree off the cylinder walls I believe . don’t worry I am going to stay away from redline probably 5-6k rpms at MOST and this will not be a constant maybe 2-3 times during the drive. This is going to be a race motor so I want the break in to be good but I also don’t want to blow it up trying to make 10 psi In attempt to seat the rings .
IN CONCLUSION :
This write up was about my personal setup , I was basically asking if there is anything else you guys would recommend that you see wrong with my plans. Also if I would be alright to load my old tune if I bolt up and the old stuff that it was tuned for only difference will be the motors slightly higher compression, big cams, and bigger intake manifold /TB.
Any advice or help is greatly appreciated sorry for the ignorance.. just don’t wanna kill a new motor and not sure what I should do
It is at a pretty badass machine shop as we speak
Alignhone for the mains
Either a hone or a bore depending what machinist thinks
And it’s getting decked
As far as the engine modifications go :
Manley turbo tuff rods
Manley 9.0:1 pistons
Manley crank
Kiggly main girdle
Arp main studs
New OEM oil pump , will be deburing gears
7bolt oil strainer / pickup tube (6 bolt discontinued)
Arp L19 Head studs
Felpro prematorque MLS headgasket
Stock valves
Bc 280 cams
Bc springs and retainers
Adjustable cam gears
Revised OR 2g oem lifters (planning to rev the motor highish)(8700-9200RPM)
Speed density setup
MOST LIKEY GOING TO PURCHASE :
Jmf intake manifold / s90 74mm tb.
GETTING MOTOR READY FOR FIRST START :
Probably going to have the machine shop assemble the bottom end.
When installing the oil pump gonna pack the oil pump with Vaseline and install the engine and attach a drill/impact and build oil pressure that way before the first fire of the motor.
With that being said it’ll probably take me a hour or two to install the belt correctly , give it it’s rotations, check belt and tensioner . And then re install timing cover all the drive / serpentine belts. And basically get the engine ready for the first fire .
THE FIRST START AND BREAK IN :
Now this is where it gets interesting for me ! so as stated above I plan on priming the oil pump with a drill but by the time it takes me to re install all the stuff to take it for the first drive (stated above) won’t priming the oil pump have been useless because everything drained back down already? Or is priming the oil pump only so that all the oil gallery’s and cams / rockers and all important stuff gets some lubrications so obviously there won’t be a “dry” start?
On top of that, now we are going into break in methods for a fresh motor .
I plan on following this link : http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
As many of you have already stated is proven to work. I plan on starting the motor and I know you’re not supposed to let them idle on a fresh motor . SO I plan on letting it run for a couple seconds and then starting the fluctuation of rpms from “1500-4000rpm” for as long as it takes for the car to get to operating temp (216 Fahrenheit water temp) and then taking it for a drive . And on that drive it is going to be a short one 15-20 Miles max. And I plan on laying into some boost to seat the rings as recommend . After I get home from that drive I will park the car and change the oil using break in oil or just cheap oil that has good zinc /additive contents. After this the next time I start my car am I still not allowed to let it idle? How long do I have to fluctuate the rpms from 1500-4000 instead of letting it idle??
HERE IS MY PROBLEM!
On the cars old setup it was STOCK everything as far as the internals I’d the motor . Bone stock head and bone stock rotating assembly.
This was paired with a pair of fic 2150cc injectors
And a gt3582. The car ran good and was tuned on a Gm 3” maf on 25psi. Tial mvs 38mm EWG .E85
On the new motor it is going to get a Pte 6266 .82 ar and a speed density setup , the new cams and the higher compression pistons . My problem is if I keep the car on the gm maf and the old turbo setup that it was tuned on (JUST for a quick break in). Could I load the old tune to the computer and use it on low boost just for break in without seeing a dramatic change in the tune? I just want to break in the motor right and have a safe tune on it and the tune for 25 psi was always healthy when I turned it down to 10-16 psi . I guess my main question is will the bump in compression, the cams and the intake manifold and bigger tb make the old tune unsafe even if I turn down the boost and be nice to it.. I’m kind of at a stand still because the car is getting a completely new setup and would like to give the car the proper break In by ripping on it just a little bit but I’m sure you understand what I’m getting at as the NEW setup will neeed a whole new tune with the bigger turbo and so on and so fourth . I am also aware you’re supposed to let the engine brake itself as in when driving bring the rpms up and then don’t shift and allow the rpms to drag down by themselves as this is believed to create a strong vacuum that will suck the debree off the cylinder walls I believe . don’t worry I am going to stay away from redline probably 5-6k rpms at MOST and this will not be a constant maybe 2-3 times during the drive. This is going to be a race motor so I want the break in to be good but I also don’t want to blow it up trying to make 10 psi In attempt to seat the rings .
IN CONCLUSION :
This write up was about my personal setup , I was basically asking if there is anything else you guys would recommend that you see wrong with my plans. Also if I would be alright to load my old tune if I bolt up and the old stuff that it was tuned for only difference will be the motors slightly higher compression, big cams, and bigger intake manifold /TB.
Any advice or help is greatly appreciated sorry for the ignorance.. just don’t wanna kill a new motor and not sure what I should do
Last edited:
. That guy is an idiot that has no real car experience, he owned a dirt bike and decided he was a genius because he could semi successfully install a two stroke top end without blowing it up. He is a "good ol' boy" that believes "yeee haw, brake er' in fast and she'll go fast, yeeeee hawwww" I would trust science over idiocy. I am tired of beating this dead, dead, dead...oh and did I mention DEAD? horse, so I wont bite any further on this bait. Do your research, ask a few mechanics that have been around a few years and make a decision based on your actual research, not interweb nonsense.
