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Engine Bay [Merged 7-7] cleanup clean up unclutter tidy neat

Does the engine bay look better?

  • Yes, it looks MUCH better than stock.

    Votes: 42 89.4%
  • No, it looks g@y, you should have kept it stock.

    Votes: 5 10.6%

  • Total voters
    47

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;p

I gotcha, looking back at your pics on the other thread I get a better perspective. Thanks. Anything else I can do lmk.
 
What I did, and what I think you should do is find a local powdercoating guy and take a ton of things off and go to town. Also, what I notice is that you need to clean the actual paint inside of the engine bay (shock towers, firewall, etc.). What I use is just that spray on wax that you use for the exterior of your car. That cleaned up the paint of the engine bay really well.

Also, Armor All all of those black hoses/couplers.
Go out and buy some Mothers Aluminum Polish and go to town on your AC lines.
Personally, I used the de-greaser Fantastic. That worked really well for me.

Here is an old picture of my engine bay. I'll post up some new ones with my new Evo III installed. Its pretty blingin :cool: :D:

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Your bay looks good. I washed the paint in the bay already, I think I'm just too little too late. It needs to be repainted. Some spots could just use some wax but the rest can use some paint.

It got dark outside but tomorrow I should be done. I'm gonna take a lot of the wire loom off and use electrical tape to reduce the bulkiness. any other tips lmk
 
progress update:





Dirty intake manifold


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Crap load of wires I plan on hiding. Firewall harness will be tucked underneath manifold as well with the harness that goes along with the injectors.


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Cleaned manifold and seperated injector wires from the original harness which is now under IM


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Thought of another thing: remove the engine hoisting mount (directly to the left of the pcv valve).
 
The nuts holding that thing are HARD to take off. I got it going but it's a slow process. Does those 2 nuts secure the IM to the head?
 
Looks really good, you are making some nice progress. Another thing you should do is get a wire wheel that you can put in the end of your drill or some steel wool knock all the rust spots clean hit it with some primer and some black paint. That will help a lot. Before you do that take the nuts or any bolts off before you paint and then hit all them up with the wire wheel then put them back on the car.
 
Thanks for that tip, I might consider that. I called it a night, I dropped the spacers for the fuel rail under the IM and it's too dark to find em. I should be done tomorrow.
 
I had my brackets powder coated on the firewall, engine mount on driverside, waterpipe, fuel
rail, intake manifold, valve cover, and the thermostat housing, and some other trim parts. i cant wait
to put it all together. I think i will make it look reallyh clean, plus i cleaned or painted just about everything i could. im realy picky about how everything looks.
 
Just getting to it, simple green works pretty good. Quarter of a way through..:





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ROFL There are several ways to clean up an engine. First off a persons eyes like to see things Smooth for the most part. Also no matter how much you clean those parts they will not look brand new unless they are hot tanked, powder coated or hit with some abrasive like sand blasting. Check out my engine bay before and after. Codename: Upgrade, Xbox 360 Talon: Turbo Install Before and After

There were several things I did. First off I started much like you. I scrubbed everything realy well and cleaned everything I could reach with abrasives and acitone. I ended up with an engine that looked like my Before picture. I emplore you please dont use wire loom. Keep wire a dark color, Dark grey, black, really dark blue or somthing

I have done two cars engine bays last year. The other is this car DreamCastEclipse: The Pictures!
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The dreamcast eclipse. Both set of powdercoating for both cars were done at the same time. It cost me 320 dollars after it was all said and done for both cars total.

This is the original install of new manifold, the Powder coated parts and stainless fuel and oil lines. Codename: Upgrade, Xbox 360 Talon: Starnes 420a Turbo Install
 

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Just wanted to throw this out there as another option for everyone doing a wire tuck. When it came to the Power Transistor, I removed it from the IM and kept that metal bracket on it and then bolted it to the underside of the IM. There's 2 bolts that hold your manifold brace to the underside of your IM. Remove the one on the passenger side and then bolt your Power Transistor straight to that. Doing it this way is SUPER EASY and doesn't involve having to lengthen any wires at all. My engine bay is a LONG WAY from being where I'd like it, but it's come a LONG way since the first day I got it.
 

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Just wanted to throw this out there as another option for everyone doing a wire tuck. When it came to the Power Transistor, I removed it from the IM and kept that metal bracket on it and then bolted it to the underside of the IM. There's 2 bolts that hold your manifold brace to the underside of your IM. Remove the one on the passenger side and then bolt your Power Transistor straight to that. Doing it this way is SUPER EASY and doesn't involve having to lengthen any wires at all. My engine bay is a LONG WAY from being where I'd like it, but it's come a LONG way since the first day I got it.

you should look into alternator relocation kit...bi*** to install, i dunno when im gonna get mine in as you gotta take out the IM, but should be worth it.
 
you should look into alternator relocation kit...bi*** to install, i dunno when im gonna get mine in as you gotta take out the IM, but should be worth it.

You're right! I actually plan on relocating it, but because it is such a PITA, I planned on having it done when I get a new clutch.

If I realized I could've done it when I took my OEM intake manifold off, I would've done it then. Dammit! :mad: I did, however, remove my A/C pump and all the lines when I had the mani off.

On a side note, it's really not that difficult to remove the IM. Best advice I could give you, is to remove your downpipe and go at it from underneath. 10x easier this way.
 
You're right! I actually plan on relocating it, but because it is such a PITA, I planned on having it done when I get a new clutch.

If I realized I could've done it when I took my OEM intake manifold off, I would've done it then. Dammit! :mad: I did, however, remove my A/C pump and all the lines when I had the mani off.

On a side note, it's really not that difficult to remove the IM. Best advice I could give you, is to remove your downpipe and go at it from underneath. 10x easier this way.

might just wait til i get a good deal on a magnus. really doesnt look too hard more about getting the other shit out of the way first. i have so much stuff i want to get powdercoated in the engine bay first, then the suspension parts maybe next winter.
 
Ok so i noticed how much crap there is in my engine bay. Besides the A/C and the powersteeriing, what else could i take out so i don't have a bunch of useless things in my engine bay? just looking to have more room to work on it.
 
Evap system, cruise control.
Stock ugly 1g maf,s swap with 2g maf.
Wire tuck.
Loose the power steering for a 1g manual rack.
Post a pic of your engine bay.
 
Evap system, cruise control.
Stock ugly 1g maf,s swap with 2g maf.
Wire tuck.
Loose the power steering for a 1g manual rack.
Post a pic of your engine bay.


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ok so i have no idea what the big grey box is in the middle, with the hose/wires coming out of it. also, where is the cruise control located?
 
Order a non cruise cable that will get rid of that big box.
You can also get a SMIM it makes things look cleaner, but they are not cheap.
90% of the crap on the firewall can be taken off and moved down.
 
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