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Engine Bay [Merged 7-7] cleanup clean up unclutter tidy neat

Does the engine bay look better?

  • Yes, it looks MUCH better than stock.

    Votes: 42 89.4%
  • No, it looks g@y, you should have kept it stock.

    Votes: 5 10.6%

  • Total voters
    47

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Thanks a lot for the motivation and tips man. Your engine bay looks amazing... I will keep y'all posted. I'm gonna start with the small things first then move up. I'll post pics.
 
Just getting to it, simple green works pretty good. Quarter of a way through..:





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I want to, just took it out to get to the coolant lines. I want to eliminate the coolant lines going to the throttle body so I gotta read up on the FIAV block off mod.


I need help with some things. Turbosax2 said:
"1. Loop the throttle cable underneath the intake manifold."

How exactly? Any pics for reference?

Also, can I take this off?

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If you just want to delete the fiav, you need an fiav bypass plate, like this:
JM Fabrications



For the throttle cable, instead of running it on top of the intake manifold, just shove it underneath the intake manifold. This thread should help you out:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...outing-non-cruise-control-throttle-cable.html


It sounds like the bolt on your battery tray is stripped since it's just spinning. Try gripping it really tight with vise grips and pulling the hell out of it. If you're relocating the battery it really doesn't matter if it's stripped so just beat the crap out of it however much you need to to get it out.
 
If you just want to delete the fiav, you need an fiav bypass plate, like this:
JM Fabrications



For the throttle cable, instead of running it on top of the intake manifold, just shove it underneath the intake manifold. This thread should help you out:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...outing-non-cruise-control-throttle-cable.html


It sounds like the bolt on your battery tray is stripped since it's just spinning. Try gripping it really tight with vise grips and pulling the hell out of it. If you're relocating the battery it really doesn't matter if it's stripped so just beat the crap out of it however much you need to to get it out.


Only reason I want to take the battery tray out is to take the charcoal canister out of there. I'm trying to figure out how exactly my non cc cable should be rerouted to hide it and still function.

Also, how do you get the injectors to go underneath the fuel rail? Will I have to take off the fuel rail, connect em', then reattach the rail?
 
You're making the throttle cable issue too complicated. Just stuff it below/behind the intake manifold and let it hang down there - easy as that.

Yes, to put the wires for the injectors underneath the fuel rail I had to unbolt the fuel rail. With the fuel rail still bolted down I didn't have enough room the shove the connectors under it. The injectors stay the same, just the wires go underneath the fuel rail instead of over it. I was using aftermarket fuel injector clips that were wider than the stock ones - you might be able to keep the fuel rail bolted down and just shove the connectors under it.
 
You're right about the complicated thing. The reason I'm like that is because in the past simple things took forever for me, just sounds to easy to do so I'm thinking too hard.

K well it's dark out, so I'll do the cable and injectors tomorrow. Any other tips throw em at me.
 
Clean up the brake and clutch cylinder caps.
Since you looped the throttle cable underneath the intake manifold you don't need the brackets for it on the fuel rail anymore.
Put vacuum caps on the throttle body nipples to block them. Cleaner look imo.

In the picture above that has the thing circled in red - are you reffering to the metal piece with lines going to it? That's your brakes proportioning valve and no, that can not be removed. The only way to get rid of that is to run custom brake lines.
 

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uuhh.. wheres your dipstick?

It's there, the handle broke off.

Got some questions:

I seen engine bays with the coils on the spark plug cover. If I got the term wrong oh well but you know what I'm talkin about, what's the deal with those? How do I do it?
 
It's there, the handle broke off.

Got some questions:

I seen engine bays with the coils on the spark plug cover. If I got the term wrong oh well but you know what I'm talkin about, what's the deal with those? How do I do it?

You're talking about a coil-on-plug (cop). The deal is that they're all show. The stock ignition is more than fine for almost anyone on here. And if you go with a cop, you should have a quality CID to go along with it.

More info on cop's:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/166642-cop-coil-plug-ignition-merged-1-8-a.html
 
Heatshield from fabrications or powdercoat?

I'm assuming you mean either buy a heatshield from JMFab or powdercoat yours.

I'm not even sure if you can powdercoat the heatshield. If you can, someone please say so, but I've never heard of anyone doing it. People usually spray with high temp paint. But as to which choice it all depends on what look you want and how much money you want to spend.
 
I'd recommend removing your intake and upper intercooler piping to get more room to clean. Repainting the rusty things helps too. I resprayed my brake reservoir bracket.
 
Today I hid the injector wires, took the clips off the fuel rail, put throttle cable behind intake manifold, scrubbed more of the engine bay, and replaced some of the shiny vacuum hose with silicone hose.





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I want to relocate the power transistor but have no idea where to. I remember reading to put it on the firewall as long as I lengthen that blue wire. I have the OEM overflow bottle but want to mount it somehwere else so it isn't seen. And I want to hide and tape a lot of wires, so any more tips on what to do lmk.

Where should I mount the power transistor?


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http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/app...ttempted-wire-tuck-today-2.html#post151379269

Check out the last picture in post 76. The power transistor gets relocated to the bracket for the injector box. You have to turn the injector box around so the wires point down instead of up. This MAY NOT work for you without lengthening all the wires.

The only place I can think of to relocate the coolant bottle is to where the battery used to be. Some people with fmic's relocate it to where the smic used to be, but that doesn't work for you. Honestly, I would just clean the bottle up so it looks decent and keep it where it is. You could also get an aftermarket bottle that looks nicer, but I think a clean factory bottle in the stock position looks ok.
 
Looks like yours and mine are different in mounting:




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Take the power transistor off of the metal bracket. I think you just have to unscrew 2 screws. Then it will look like the one in the pictures.
 
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