eIII16g vs. 19c vs. 18g td05h

[tstkl]

ive been looking at turbos lately, and at this stage im looking for a very streetable turbo that will get me as high as possible on the power charts....(actually as low as possible in the e.t. charts, but its all the same thing right?)

ive been looking at

evoiii 16g

19c from fp

or 18g from fp (the one that doesnt cost 1k...)

my questions is, does anyone run one of the latter two turbos and have anything to say about these turbos? also the 18g says its a dry housing, and that this makes install on the 2g easier.. does this mean that the 1g does have water lines that i would have to re route? im thinking about going with the 19c ported... but i dunno...

also it seems that in one of fp's turbo descriptions, (i believe the 19c) that their port job adds a larger flapper, do they do this on all turbos if you get them ported? cuz 95 does seem high for a port job...

 

[mavisky]

I run the 18g with a dry housing from FP. Got it on their $429 centercartridge and compressor housing only deal. Car is fwd and has run 13.3 @ 111.7 and 13.4 @ 112.5 on pump gas at 20psi. The turbo's good for 26-28 with proper mods. New 650's are going in over the winter and on racegas she should be good for those boost levels and 118 mph traps I believe. I've just got to find a way to get the power to the ground better in the first couple gears.

While the EVO III may make a little more power and may spool quicker I just couldn't pass on a new turbo knowing I already had a 7cm housing laying around the house for that price.

 

[tstkl]

its nice to have three guys who all work at the same store talking about random stuff in your thread.....

jk, i think its funny someone believed your guy's rwd dsm only has 300 whp, but a honda driver will believe anything, so thats not really funny, just really SAD....

anyways:

what im looking in a new turbo is something that will be a streetable turbo that will take me as low as possible in the quarter mile, and not cost an arm and a leg.... allow me to elaborate:

im a junior in highschool, and by the end of my senior year, i hope to have done a full exhaust system, full fuel system, clutch, flywheel, dsmlink, and a new turbo, then i will go through and do the head, suspension, tires, rims, brakes, driveshaft (cf) and other stuff, THEN:

once i get out of college i hope to turn the talon to a complete drag racing machine, and get some like honda insight or something that (by that time) will cost like 2k used and get like 50 mpg (funny story.... the talon cost 2k when i bought it, and is still currently the best car we have in terms of mpg... but thats all gonna change)

ive already done the full intake, you can ask me what any of the parts i plan on getting if you would like, but i need a turbo that will last the next 5 years through those mods, and still be streetable..

 

[GSX26]

Hey man,
I'm also a junior in highschool. Check my profile for complete mod list, but basically it's the 50 trim with all supporting mods. Very streetable and runs low 12's high 11's at the track. If that set up's a little too laggy for you, which I think you'll be surprised it isn't, then I'd go with the evo16. Just my 2 cents.

 

[VRMAN]

Pick up either the FP 18G or the SBR 20G.

 

[r10performance]

Bigger isn't always better. The EVO 3 16g wheel is "slightly" smaller than an 18g comp. wheel, but the blades are thinner. This means two things. First, the wheel is lighter, hence more efficient. Second, this means more air volume between each blade. This means more CFM. So even though it's slightly smaller, it'll actually outflow the 18g. Note that either will get the job done, and great numbers have been made on both, so just throw a dart and pick one!

 

[tstkl]

i believe ive desided to go with one of the sbr ball bearing turbos, and am looking at either the 50trim or the 57 trim... internally gated of corse, because then if i upgrade to an fp3575 i wont have to worry about not being able to use the current external gate i have and have to get a vband external one, so ill just stick with the internal for now... anyone know about this type of set up and the boost creep problems?

also, are tubular exhaust manifolds worth it? ive been looking at the sbr evo3 style, but that seems like its just a basic idea with big runners and a big collector, a bigger is better manifold in my opinion, while the idea of equal lenght runners makes a lot of sense to me... im sure i would be happy with the sbr, but what will i be happist with?

 

[VRMAN]

r10: Just because it has thinner blades does NOT mean it outflows the 18G. At 15psi, the E16G flows 550cfm and the 18G flows 600cfm, not the other way around.

tstkl: Why do you want to get the ball bearing version? For those two specific turbos, the boost will come on at a decent rpm, save the BB money for when you do go really big, the standard 57 trim would be an excellent turbo choice for you. Also, your "reasoning" behind the internal gate is flawed. You should always be setting up for an external gate so you get reliable and managable boost. You could easily use the same wastegate setup for both turbos. Picking up a Tial 40mm wastegate, you could use it for either turbo you talked about. In regards to the manifold, people are running 10s on ported 2G manifolds. You will gain some nice top end with a quality tubular manifold but the SBR is a proven and excellent design, it'll work well.

 

[tstkl]

no, the fp 3575 has a vband style turbine housing, so unless i put the external on the manifold (how do you reroute this? this is why i havent thought about this) my old external gate wouldnt work since its vband style... and i believe the bb isnt that much more expensive....
800 for the regular, 845 for the dual ball bearing...

as for the sbr, the only thing that has me worried is that an sbr unit is 300, while a tubular is only 180 shy of that, and while 180 is a lot of money, having to shell out the extra 480 after buying a 300 dollar unit is much more, i just want something that i wont have to think twice about, ever...

 

[BatmanGSX]

The 18G flows 50 more cfm and basically has the same spool up characterisitcs.

The 18G DOES NOT FLOW MORE than the Evo3 16G. Stop spreading lies.

The 19C is actually a good turbo

Wow, there goes your credibility.

Stop hating on something you've never driven, I loved my 18G.

I've ran an 18G. It was good. But the E3 16G still flows more and will ultimately produce more power. I wish silly people would stop being confused about what an E3 16G is and thinking it flows less than 18G just because it's called a 16G. People really need to get clues.

 

[VRMAN]

Okay, you counter my 18G flows more than a 16G arguement with nothing more than an opinionated statement and no proof, my comments come directly from the tech support at FORCED PERFORMANCE. Then you proceed to take HALF A SENTENCE quote pertaining to the 19C in which I said it was a good turbo for running below 20psi, so there goes YOUR credibilty, fukcing snake-ass manipulator. Funny because you can check my profile against yours and see what a joke you are kunt-helmet.

Glad you love your 16G over your old 18G, doesn't matter which you have on now as I would pull on you over multiple bus lengths. Now hack up this post. You didn't help the guy decide on a turbo whatsoever.

 

[tstkl]

whats really funny is that im not even considering any of these three turbos anymore... ive desided to go with a dual ball bearing 50, 57, 54, or 60 trim turbo from sbr by pte, since they are only 50 more than the non ball bearing versions...

any suggestions on a turbo around these turbos (in terms of spool, top end, and overall performance...) or opinions / stats (this person is running this turbo with these mods and dynoed xyz whp, heres his sn and heres the link to his dyno sheet...) will be appreciated...ive desided to go with the sbr evo3 style exhaust manifold, but still havent found an o2 housing to go with my buschur racing 3 inch downpipe, high flow cat, and cat back exhaust system... and also i will be going with a fuel injector clinic fuel rail with an aeromotive 10 an fuel pressure regulator, an aeromotive a1000 inline fuel pump, full 10 an ss lines from the fuel tank to the fuel rail along with the return and a 10 an fuel filter (havent desided...) with 10 an everything else... o and the injectors will be somewhere around 850cc+, since i wont need more until later... car will also have dsmlink, sbr 3500 clutch kit, fidanza flywheel, and currently has a johnny racecar fmic, dejon tool uicp, gm 3 inch maf, maft, 1g bov with dejon no leak kit, dejon 2.25 licp, dejon intake pipe, and a 9 inch k&n air filter (btw for anyone looking to get a k&n 9 inch air filter, dont use the dejon tool intake pipe as you have to force the airfilter to fit because the headlight motor is in the way... its a good thing the tip is rubber, cuz the motor pushes it in about a half an inch...)

after all those performance mods i believe my wallet will be overly exhausted and ill take a brake... and do the brakes..... along with the suspension and tires, and then probably cf drive shaft, rims/tires, or maybe a fully built bottom end... and after the built bottom end will come cams to go with my dejon smim (did i forget that above? i think i did...).... hoping for around 500 whp with all that stuff....its basically just intake, fuel, exhaust, turbo, cams....then i can have fun with the local m3's (aka make them feel like shit for buying such an expensive car that has nothing on a 2000 dollar car)

 

[VRMAN]

I just recently took off a PTE 54 trim from my car as the flow charts show it actually flows LESS than a 50trim. I got 21psi at 3900rpms and made 309whp on pump gas (shiztty ass 91 octane) but felt I could do better with a better turbo. A close friend of mine runs a BB 57 trim and we love it. Spools 20psi at 3500-3600rpms and he made 344whp with full boltons and FIC 750cc injectors.

Like I said, I think you would be real happy rocking a 60 trim, good power on pump or race gas but not as laggy as the 60-1. Or else skim through the classifieds and see what you could pick up an FP Green for. New they are too expensive but used you can find some good deals.

Actually I know a dude who has a legitimate sale of a FRESHLY rebuilt, zero miles, FP Green that you could snatch up for $870. Nobody I know that has extensive DSM knowledge knocks the Green, they all love it.

 

[mavisky]

whats really funny is that im not even considering any of these three turbos anymore... ive desided to go with a dual ball bearing 50, 57, 54, or 60 trim turbo from sbr by pte, since they are only 50 more than the non ball bearing versions...

any suggestions on a turbo around these turbos (in terms of spool, top end, and overall performance...) or opinions / stats (this person is running this turbo with these mods and dynoed xyz whp, heres his sn and heres the link to his dyno sheet...) will be appreciated...ive desided to go with the sbr evo3 style exhaust manifold, but still havent found an o2 housing to go with my buschur racing 3 inch downpipe, high flow cat, and cat back exhaust system... and also i will be going with a fuel injector clinic fuel rail with an aeromotive 10 an fuel pressure regulator, an aeromotive a1000 inline fuel pump, full 10 an ss lines from the fuel tank to the fuel rail along with the return and a 10 an fuel filter (havent desided...) with 10 an everything else... o and the injectors will be somewhere around 850cc+, since i wont need more until later... car will also have dsmlink, sbr 3500 clutch kit, fidanza flywheel, and currently has a johnny racecar fmic, dejon tool uicp, gm 3 inch maf, maft, 1g bov with dejon no leak kit, dejon 2.25 licp, dejon intake pipe, and a 9 inch k&n air filter (btw for anyone looking to get a k&n 9 inch air filter, dont use the dejon tool intake pipe as you have to force the airfilter to fit because the headlight motor is in the way... its a good thing the tip is rubber, cuz the motor pushes it in about a half an inch...)

after all those performance mods i believe my wallet will be overly exhausted and ill take a brake... and do the brakes..... along with the suspension and tires, and then probably cf drive shaft, rims/tires, or maybe a fully built bottom end... and after the built bottom end will come cams to go with my dejon smim (did i forget that above? i think i did...).... hoping for around 500 whp with all that stuff....its basically just intake, fuel, exhaust, turbo, cams....then i can have fun with the local m3's (aka make them feel like shit for buying such an expensive car that has nothing on a 2000 dollar car)

For the love of god capitalize a letter or two in there. Hell if it's just at random, at least I'll know you're trying. Oh and unless something's changed since I left school, 1 period does just fine. This whole "....." thing is really getting on my nerves. I know you need to take the time to breathe while reading it, so use 1 period, maybe a comma, ever heard of a semi-colon? It's called english and being as you're old enough to drive you've spent at least 10 years in school covering the subject, you should act like it.

 

[tstkl]

For the love of god capitalize a letter or two in there. Hell if it's just at random, at least I'll know you're trying. Oh and unless something's changed since I left school, 1 period does just fine. This whole "....." thing is really getting on my nerves. I know you need to take the time to breathe while reading it, so use 1 period, maybe a comma, ever heard of a semi-colon? It's called english and being as you're old enough to drive you've spent at least 10 years in school covering the subject, you should act like it.

I'm sorry my lack of skill in english is getting on your nerves, alThough i don't see what putting rAndom capitalized letters in does for the reading of it, but I guess whatever floats your boat.

 

[mavisky]

I'm sorry my lack of skill in english is getting on your nerves, alThough i don't see what putting rAndom capitalized letters in does for the reading of it, but I guess whatever floats your boat.

Read my post again. It's not helpful, but at least that way I'd know your shift key wasn't broken and you were making an attempt, albeit a rather retarded one, at using proper grammer. Then I'd be led to believe you were just too un-educated to use capitalization properly which is forgivable as opposed to being too lazy which is unforgivable.