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EF1 vs 68hta vs S256 vs HX35 so many choices

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the 68 and 71 is same wheel. for a dsm anyway. according micheal.
The 71 has a larger inducer and exducer than the 68. It's an upgrade no matter how you look at it.

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the hta 68 for 1299 makes no sense when 71 with ported 20g style shroud is 999
Holiday sale. Once it's over they'll be the same price....so then it comes down to whether you're shooting for total performance or stock-appearing.
 
This was a very good read. I am standing by for more replies.
 
back on 7-19 I was pm ing micheal about the 71 hta for my evo x. at that time there was no standard rotation 71 wheel. and he said they were renaming the 68. here is a quote from that same week. notice how the 71hta in quote was evo 8/9 only. also note the 68hta is not always the same dimensions. the jnducer of 71 is same as dsm 68. always has been.
be nice to know for sure if they remade the standard rotation 68hta with the 71mm exducer.

Sorry I should have clarified I was in a hurry.

The DSM 68HTA is a 68/51
The Subaru 68HTA is a 68/49
The EVO 8/9 71HTA is a 71/51

Thanks,

-Michael
 
The KTS 20G compressor wheels come in 6, 7, and 11-blade versions, and measure 52.5mm inducer, 68mm exducer, and 71mm extended tips. They also have a 7-blade that has 73mm extended tips.
 
Hmm. The seller on that $100 20g wheel is brand new with 0 feedback. My order status still says the payment is processing because they haven't accepted payment yet. Let's see what happens here...
 
Hmm. The seller on that $100 20g wheel is brand new with 0 feedback. My order status still says the payment is processing because they haven't accepted payment yet. Let's see what happens here...

So you bought the last 3. I'm not to worried about it, I've never lost a paypal dispute and always got my money back if a deal fell through. Isn't Thailand 12-13 hrs difference from USA central time? Maybe he was sleeping :idontknow:
 
I only bought one. I'm not too worried either since paypal has always came through for me as well.
 
HX35 can be used with oem fans, I am using it this way. (well, hx40 compressor, t3 turbine machined for hx35 turbine hweel and center housing)

I did dent my water pipe but by the time i did the final clocking of the housing i didn't need to in the end.. with a T3 housing on the turbine you can retain undernal gating (but why would ya :D )

The exhaust mods are minimal as wel as the IC pipe mods (anyone with a few mandrel bend scraps, an elbow/t-clamp or two and a saw can make it work, and if that same person can weld there's the exaust for ya

What i'm getting at is that for less than the cost of the 650 to convert your turbo there's a lot offab guys like myself that would hook up all your other stuff to work for probably as little as 225 bucks or so... (and for me that's including the parts i have to make it work) then you have a cheaply and home rebuildable turbo capable of a LOT of HP, bolted on and installed (including buying a manifold and gate used at best case money savings and you're still gonna come in under 650)

I sold my old Tial and turbonetics manifold together for 250 (got a good price for it i think), the machined T3 housing was laying around and at worst i charge 100 bucks to machine te\hem but if you've got local friends utilize them :D

Either way, I think going with something built to be more mainstream and easy to get parts for is the best bet unless you're trying to stay in that 16g apearance realm... but personally and please don't jump my ish for saying this "i've never been all that impressed with the way any 16g car pulls... sure the power readings are there on the dyno, but it just doesn't have that "in command" shear power of a larger turbo IMO"

I'm happy to ride in anyone's car that can priove me wrong butjst last year i took a ride in a guys 16g car and although it was cool, it just did 't impress me for being an 11 second 16g car.
 
That's good to know that it fits glenn, and I probably will get a hx35 eventually. But I want to learn to weld in the near future so I can do that one myself some day. Otherwise, a twin-scroll 12cm t3 hx35 breaks the bank.

Looks like I will just upgrade to billet 20g for now and leave everything else the same, because it's so easy. I hope my 1050cc injectors will handle it on e85.

But what about the S256? From the single result I can recall, it was something like 444whp @24psi on a 2.4L automatic...I don't recall the owner's name
 
I would definitely do the above. There are a myriad of billet 20G wheels (including extended tip versions) and plenty of housings that will simply swap right onto the 16G. Talk about cost effective.

There is no magic in the FP turbos, you can make one of your own and have just as effective and powerful turbo for 1/4 of the cost.


LOL at the last part...
 
S256 was a great turbo for me. Took a crazy beating and never missed a beat. Check out my dyno sheet <<<

Yeah, that's what I want. Maybe I should just stick it with the 16g and get bigger injectors and pump. What I really want to know about is fitment. Does it require a new oil drain too?
 
Keep in mind that the 256 is quite a bit larger than a 20G. It's roughly the same size and capability as an HX35.
 
I want a 55lb/min turbo eventually, but I don't want to use an old turbo if I don't have to. It sounds like the hx35 and the borg are going to be tight fits, but possible. But the borg is a new turbo, and it's in the $1k budget after selling the 16g and getting a BEP housing.
 
I loved my old S256 setup, I'd imagine it would be quite fun on a 2.3 auto. I'd also say that the HTA Green would be my choice from the FP lineup in your price range, anything with the 05H turbine would be too small for the stroker IMO. Anything bigger wouldn't work well with the stock converter.
 
I want a 55lb/min turbo eventually, but I don't want to use an old turbo if I don't have to. It sounds like the hx35 and the borg are going to be tight fits, but possible. But the borg is a new turbo, and it's in the $1k budget after selling the 16g and getting a BEP housing.

Not a tight fit at all, here's some shots from when I had the bolt-on housing with a 59mm S200sx on my old car

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Would definitely recommend this turbo, in any of the available housings.. Bolt-on, T3 or T4.

You won't regret it, just make sure you get the 74mm/64mm turbine and not the cut-down version that comes with some of the BEP versions of the S200sx
 
I did not have to, that was on a FWD chassis too btw, the AWD crossmember locates it differently.

That was done on a ported 2G manifold. In the event you need more block clearance you can have an extra flanged milled at a slight angle to sandwich between turbo and manifold.

Having also had two t3 housings, and the big airwerks t4 housing I can comment that none of them made for clearance issues. Granted some of that is up to the manifold design.

All 4 housings were used with a full-sized aluminum radiator, and I would bet that at the very least the Bolt-on and .70 Open T3 could have been used with some lightly clearanced stock radiator fans if I had to put money on it.

I really did have a lot of space. But again, this was a 1G engine bay and a FWD at that.
 
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