GVR-4 ECU Wiring harness question

[yeti-gvr4]

So I looked up a 1g ecu pinout with colors ( attached ) and a good amount of my wires are different colors or lacking pins/stripes.

On another note there’s a - green wire/white pin stripe / red dash -
WIRE just hanging not connected to ecu at all, the pin out says this should be my idle switch or tps sensor, two things that would cause my idle to surge.

So I checked the pin location and there are wires there still plugged in, also a different color that indicates on the pin out.

But the idle switch and tps sensor wires have been molested, still seem to be connected and working ( visual )

Last but not least my knock sensor is consisting of 3 different wires being spliced into one ecu pin. TWO large brown With white pin stripe , and one small black with red dashs wire. ALL going into the original stock white knock sensor wire.

What to do? Where to start?

How can I check if my knock sensor is working properly? ( I have it set to boost gauge on Link and it flashed every now and then on my shitty tune )

How can I check if my tps or idle switch are working properly? The guy who tuned my car was mentioning the isc or tps something was not responding to adjustments on Dsm link.

My bad for all the questions is such a short amount of time, any help is greatly appreciated , also attached is the ecu pin out I followed

 

[19Eclipse90]

The GVR4 does not share all the same wire colors as the 1G DSM. I think the pin slots match up pretty consistently, it's just a difference in wire colors which is why a GVR4 can use 1G ECUs. Match up your wire colors with the below (shown for 1991 GVR4) if you can and then you'll know what is and what isn't "original". If you're concerned about what wire is for what, use the electrical diagrams and continuity checks to ensure the wires are going to the correct sensors and pin locations.

DSMLink can be used to determine functionality of the TPS and idle switch. Easiest check is that their values change as the throttle is opens and moves back to closed. Idle switch should read 1 at 0% throttle and 0 any other time. Idle switch can also be simulated in Link if needed. The TPS % should move smoothly from 0% to 100% as the throttle moves from closed to wide open. Here's some reference material to point you in the right direction:

http://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/dsmlinkloggableparams?s[]=idle&s[]=switch
50+ video tutorials for ECMlink

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The wiring for the knock sensor at the ECU actually looks original, believe it or not. You should be able to disconnect the knock sensor and 1) see if you throw a CEL or 2) watch how the signal in Link changes. I'm not super proficient with Link myself so I'm sure there are likely other, better ways to figure some of this out. At least this will give you a start.

Pin - Wire Color
1 - Y
2 - W
3 - BR
4 - W
5 - Y
6 - GL
7 - GB
8 - GO
9 - W
10 - GL
11 - BW
12 - YR
13 - BW
14 - G
15 - GR
16 - GY
17 - GB
18 - YW
19 - GW
20 - YG
21 - B
22 - W
23 - GR
24 - GB

51 - YL
52 - YB
53 - LgL
54 - Y
55 - YR
56 - WR
57 - (didn't see one)
58 - L
59 - Y
60 - Lg
61 - LgW
62 - YR
63 - BL
64 - LY
65 - BW
66 - BL
67 - W
68 - G

101 - B
102 - R
103 - RB
104 - B
105 - O
106 - B
107 - R
108 - BY
109 - W
110 - BW