Resolved ECU MD358789 from a 2004 Mitsubishi Delica L300 2.4 petrol van require ECU pinout

[Kiwionlinenz]

Hi guys, new member requesting help. I'm looking for ECU pinout for a 2004 Mitsubishi Delica L300 van struggling to find problem and wondering if this ECU pinout might help. Any help much appreciated.
Cheers Phil

 

[steve]

Best I can find is a picture of said ECU. Did you have any luck finding a Factory Service Manual for the Delica.

DSM's didn't see the plastic packaged ECUs until 1998 and the last DSMs made were in 1999. Only the Spyder GS saw the 4G64 SOHC engine.

You might have better luck looking at the 3G Eclipse Service Manuals. It would have been the same timeframe and used the 4G64 SOHC in greater volume.

 

[Tyeler18]

I'd bet the 3g is different too. Might have better luck with pocuk.com, the Pajero guys are going to be the most similar to a Delica.

I didn't even know they put a 4g64 in the modern Delicas, that's gotta be horrendously slow

 

[T2Small]

The Delica service manuals have been posted on the major Delica forums. I had an L400 (6G72), but didn't keep anything L300.

 

[Kiwionlinenz]

Best I can find is a picture of said ECU. Did you have any luck finding a Factory Service Manual for the Delica.

DSM's didn't see the plastic packaged ECUs until 1998 and the last DSMs made were in 1999. Only the Spyder GS saw the 4G64 SOHC engine.

You might have better luck looking at the 3G Eclipse Service Manuals. It would have been the same timeframe and used the 4G64 SOHC in greater volume.

Thanks for replying steve,

Downloaded workshop manual Mitsubishi Delica 1987-1999 from delicaforums. Just downloaded the section dealing with ignition system and related pin outs to the ECU. After being confused that there were 2 different harness pin outs, which thanks to you, you clarified in a previous post I thought great I have a 2g harnesses and looking at the circuits to track back to ECU I was on my way to resolve a fault to do with no start symptom. But nothing matched the fault finding process when checking grounds or voltages on the pins out of the ECU.

So I can only assume I have the wrong pin outs for this ECU.

 

[DSMPT]

Are the ECU plugs the same as 2g DSM/EVO 4-9? Can you upload a pic of ECU? What's the car model code?

I am not so sure how the things are in New Zealand but my guess is a Delica Space Gear PC4W or PA4W is the closest or maybe the same.

If so, you can still find the FSM (Paper book) in Japan, it's in Japanese though. The FSM number 1033A75 is the electrical diagrams for 1999+ Delica Space gear with a 4g64.

 

[Kiwionlinenz]

Hi have made some progress. Now have ECU pinouts but no diagram has to how the electronics interact with ECU.

Going thru a fault finding process of ECU power supply and earth circuit.

1. Pin 82 provides 12.8 V with ignition switch ON
2. Pin 38 provided 12.8 V with ignition switch OFF
3. Expected to read system voltage on Pin 25 and Pin 12 but reads 0V. Expected Pin 38 to read 0V or earth but got a reading of 12.8V
4. Pins 13 and Pin 26 are both earth as expected.

Is it possible my ECU is defective. I have also included pinout of the ECU

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[steve]

Based on the typical Mitsubishi ECU design pin 38 doesn't provide and voltages, it receives voltage from the coil in the MFI relay and the ECU then pulls it low to activate the relay. Following the pattern, I'd look for Backup Power on pin 80.

 

[Kiwionlinenz]

Hi Steve,
Checked Pin 80 and yes backup power supply reads system voltage with ignition switch off.

So my understanding is when ignition switch IG:ON Pin 82 receives system voltage. This should activate the internal power transistor at Pin38 creating a path to earth therefore turning on the control relay which provides system voltage to pin 12 and pin 25.

Given I get 0v on pin 12 and pin 25 can this be the result of a bad internal power transistor at Pin 38?

 

[steve]

Could be. If I was 100% sure of pin 38 running to the relay that provided power to the ECU it's try manually grounding it to see if that cause the ECU to power up. If it did, I'd investigate the ECU circuit for pin 38 and see if the transistor was blown.

 

[Kiwionlinenz]

Well an update, all appears well with the ECU.

The fault that lead me down this path. The van cranks but no go. So I have so far gone about doing;
1. Checked ECU power supply and ignition switch IG.
2. Checked ECU power earth.
3. Fuel pump
4. Checked ignition ST
5. Checked TDC sensor
6. Checked crank angle sensor.
7. Checked ignition coil and power transistor. The last check was to measure the voltage of the control signal at the power transistor harness.

Removing the power transistor harness I measured the signal voltage coming from the ECU pin 10. The expected voltage is 2-6 volts. This was not the result I got, instead I got a reading of 0.1V.
So I checked the harness between the power transistor and ECU for a short circuit. No short found. Then checked the pin at transistor and pin 8 ECU for short again nothing found. So I am at the assumption stage that sensors the ECU uses to generate this signal voltage are the causes for a voltage out of spec.

Moving on I tested the power transistor by measuring resistance between transistors emitter and collector. So long at it does not read 0 ohms transistor is ok.

Then measured the ignition coil. Primary coil tested ok. Secondary coil reported open circuit so this is definitely a problem. Will go about replacing ignition coil.

 

[Kiwionlinenz]

An update.

My previous check of the ignition coil was not to be the resolution and closure that is much needed. Instead I purchased a replacement coil measured the primary resistance of both coils which read 1.2 Ohms which is ok. The secondary coil, which I initially thought was open circuit (from incorrect info I was given expecting 10 Ohms on the secondary coil). Once I changed the Ohms range I got a reading of 16.2k Ohms (old coil) and 23.5k Ohms on the new coil which I was told suggested the old coil was still good. Do you agree?

I have since as a matter of completing all possible causes checked that the timing belt is not broken by cranking the engine after removing the upper timing belt cover to view the camshaft socket rotating which I have done.

Are there any other matters I should look at before coming to "hopefully" the final conclusion that the ECU is faulty due to no signal voltage (expected 5v did record 0.1v) being sent to the power transistor switching the coils primary circuit on and off also confirmed by tachometer reading 0 rev/min on engine cranking.

 

[Kiwionlinenz]

Well good news. After going over the diagnostics again. I checked the timing belt. An BINGO timing belt seized shown in tachometer reading zero and no movement of switching signal in primary coil circuit. What a mission!!!! Thank you all especially steve for putting up with me.

Much appreciated and until my next mission. Cheers PhilT

 

[Kiwionlinenz]

I have identified that the timing belt was the problem. Even though it was unbroken, the teeth around the crankshaft pulley were stripped resulting in the timing belt not turning the camshaft sprocket. So I have removed the belt for replacement.

My concern now is I cannot turn the camshaft pulley. Would this suggest bent valves?

 

[Kiwionlinenz]

The 4G64 SOHC I have learnt is a non interference engine, meaning the valves and piston don't share the same space so there is no chance of a collision even is timing is effected by way of a broken timing belt.

What does concern me is the broken teeth on the timing belt. Any ideas would be appreciated.

Update.
After cleaning the mess of shredded timing belt teeth I inspected the the associated parts of the timing belt. The auto tensioner was ok. After inspecting the tensioner pulley (idler pulley) it appeared not to run true but had excessive wobble which appears now to be the cause of the missing teeth on the timing belt. So this will explain some teeth being partially shredded.

Now the fix besides a new timing belt. The bracket that supports the idler pulley is secured by a bolt that goes thru the eye of the bracket then bolts on the engine. The brackets eye appears to have an inner metal sleeve that is worn to the extent when placed on its engines counter part there is to much movement (wobble).

Question can this sleeve be replaced or do I have to purchase the complete bracket? Cheers