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ECMLink (DSMLink) V3

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sillylepricon37

10+ Year Contributor
128
0
Dec 17, 2008
Rapid City, South_Dakota
I have a 1999 GS-T. The Regular Stock MAF Sensor with intake.The regular old ECU, And Im going to get ECMLink. I don't really know what things i need.

Injecor size, RC 550 Injectors? Do they need to know that?

What kind of MAF do i need?
2G DSM
Hacked 2G DSM
GM with MAFT
3 GM to ECU
3.5 GM to

What is a socketing service for +30$?
Is this where they put the chip in the ECU? and can i do it myself...etc.

Do i need a GM MAF Cable?
2G DSM MAF Connector for +75$?

Thanks
 
To run without any MAF at all you would need an IAT sensor and a MAP sensor to be logged into V3 then use the SD wizard to generate a base SD tune. If you have your username and password go check out the DSMlink forums as it covers it more in depth there.
 
So just to confirm everything said above...

Once you get (DSM) ECM link you are able to change what injectors you have and MAF at a later date if you change your setup ?

Is ECM Link, DSM LINK or are they different ?
 
They are the same, DSMLink usually refers to v1 and v2 units while V3 is usually referred to as either ECMlink or DSmlink (why I have no clue LOL).

And yes, after you receive the chip you can change anything in it. The settings they ask you to fill out when purchasing are just there to make it easier to 'plug and play', they give you a better starting point as opposed to you having to set it up yourself. It helps out those that may not completely understand it right away to at least get the car drivable.
 
I don't see how that didn't answer your question. That sounded pretty clear to me. Like 95blackGsTurbo said:

1) You can't vent your BOV with DSMLink
2) The box needs to be checked to invert you CAS
3) There's no box that you can check for 272 cams. For that, you're going to actually be tuning your fuel tables and such.

Am I reading this wrong? CAN you vent your bov?

■Idle-air clamp to reduce the effect of abnormally-high airflow readings at throttle-lift (vented BOV or stalling coming to a stop when you press the clutch pedal in)

as read here under:"additional features" v3summary [ECMTuning - wiki]
 
Just because ECMTuning has included features that reduce the bad effects of venting to atmosphere doesn't mean they condone or encourage it, or that you should go ahead and do it. ;)
That's my take on it.
 
Right, not the point though. However, it does not say that you absolutely cannot do it with ecmlink, But it does state that it has a way to "get away with it" so to speak.
And with the cable and GM maf you can:sneaky:
So to say that it cannot be done, is not a true statement.........how i see it.

But mine is recirculated.
 
Can someone with this set up.....:
Big 16g at whatever psi you are running
550cc injectors
255 walbro
FMIC, BOV recirculated
272 Cams
Stock MAF
91 octane
....post your log so i can check out the differences between yours and mine. Because i am having some trouble tuning mine. And I want to check EVERYTHING on yours, Direct access and all. I only really want to check out peoples who have been tuned really well.
 
Can you explain to me how to upload a log LOL. because i tried once and it said "to large". so i don't know what i did wrong. Also, my car won't start so i have to way of posting one. My starter went out, but before it went out it just kept turning over, but no sputter.... i pulled the plugs, they were wet. I dried them and put them back in, same thing. I don't know whats going on. When its cold out, she runs pig rich until operating temperature and also is a pain in the ass to start in the morning. The manifold still glows a little, i don't know how to adjust the maf comp. etc...
 
Well, if the log file is larger than 488.7KB, then it'll throw an error. In this case, trim the log down to display the parts you want us to check out and reupload.

Just for future reference, if you hold down the gas pedal all the way while cranking with link, it'll cut all the fuel and could possibly help dry the plugs off a bit.

Did you happen to get any logs before your starter went out? They don't have to be extremely recent if the problem still existed in the past.
 
Yep, that worked!

Anything in particular you want looked at? Idle, cruise, pull? I'll probably look over it tomorrow and post back, if someone doesn't get to it before me.

I'd also suggest posting up in the link forums. If you don't have access, send them an e-mail (address is on their website) and they'll work with you. Just try to be specific as to what questions/concerns you have. I know I'm not a huge fan of looking at a basic driving log that was 10 minutes long with someone asking "Does it look ok?"
 
LOL yeah whenever you wanna take some time, thats cool. Uhm where do i start.
-At 0 degrees timing, my car won't move, no power basically. Don't know if thats normal or not
-Runs Rich all the time, start up, idle, driving.
-Don't know how to adjust MAF Comp correctly. Done research, haven't found anything.
-It feels like boost lags way to much, for a 16g. It doesn't feel like its really boosting at higher rpms.
Lets put it this way, just by driving at 10psi i can't break the tires loose. Sometimes it ranges up to 15psi. its a gst.
-Glowing manifold, not as bad as before.
-Raw knock? should it be 0 all the time?
-Whats the maximum amount of timing i can run?
-Least fuel as possible would be nice because its a DD.
-idle is always higher than what the target is.
-It is so rich at start up in the cold that it will die.
-Its so flooded right now it won't even sputter while starting it.


I have a big 16g, boost ranges from 10 to 15. I have no control over this. It just boost at what it wants, never goes above 15.
FMIC short route
272 cams
rc 550 injectors
walbro 255
Type S bov
Stock MAF
3 in exhaust.
ARP Head studs
cometic HG

This should be enough to let you know what i'm looking at i hope. ANY help is appreciated. I just want this thing tuned so i can enjoy it. :(
 
Well, here's the basic questions you always need to ask yourself/verify before you start tuning.

Verify that base timing is correct (5* BTDC). This one should always be on unless you have a 1g CAS, in which you need to set it.
Verify that base fuel pressure is correct (2g = 43.5 psi). Only necessary to verify if you have an AFPR.
Verify that there are no boost leaks. This one is very important!
Ensure all other components are working correctly.
Swap plug wires to account for different CAS (90-94 and 97-99).

If you have verified all of that, let me know. If not, there are some starting points.
 
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