ECM Link Install. (DTC 014) Car bogs wont run.

[dugan33]

Today I installed a Fuel Lab fuel pressure regulator, EGR block off, PTE 880 injectors, spark plugs, and ECMLink v3. The car idles but runs rich and bogs wayyyy down when getting on throttle. I don't have a clue what I'm doing with this ECMLink software.

So far I have changed global fuel settings and dead time to match the general values for PTE 880 on the website. I also adjusted the idle and rpm stuff but nothing crazy. I can't get this car in running condition after the install of these parts. I know its running rich still cause i pulled plugs, and the FPR is at 45. I'm getting a TPS error and my O2 is deadline at .06v when I unplugged it it was at .04v. but that might just be because I'm not able to rev it up enough to activate closed loop or whatever.

I pretty over my head here could really use some help thanks.

 

[steve]

You have quite a bit of wacky settings and two fault codes for the TPS and Baro sensors.

If all you have changed are the global fuel settings and dead time I'd suggest a reset to factory defaults and start over.

For example.

If you have a working TPS and IPS there is not reason to simulate the idle switch.
Under AuxMaps, why is enable MinOct maps as secondary maps enabled?
Under FPS, why isn't Fuel Pressure Solenoid Activation - Enable normal settings on?
Under Misc, When do you have the ECU locked in open loop mode?
Under ECU Inputs, you have factory sensors defined and then a MAP sensor assigned to the Baro input and the wideband input assigned to the Front O2, perhaps Undefined is a better choice right now.

There isn't a log included so I can't check the readings.

 

[dugan33]

ok ya i swapped injectors and made those changes you suggested. il upload the stream and settings again. its still not working any better.

 

[c2ypt1c]

I'd suggest a reset to factory defaults and start over.

Agreed, unless you really know what you're doing, you should reset everything to the default settings. Your direct access is modded pretty heavily (indicated in bold), you should also reset it. Go in direct access and on each page, toggle the stock values (double arror at top <->) and save it to the ecu.

Also, if you want the default config settings here's the link: v3configs [ECMTuning - wiki]

Scroll down to the "Stock V3 ECU Config data files" section and download the newest version (1G v3.19.40). Load it up and save it to the ecu.

Then, set your global fuel and deadtime.

Please read these links as well:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/ecmlink-tuning-log-file-advice/444831-list-values-log.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/ecm...efore-you-ask-ecmlink-dsmlink-log-advice.html

Your BISS might need some adjustment (hard to say, you need to warm up the car) and your TPS is really low at 0.02v, you can try the TPSadjust tool but you'll probably need to physically adjust it to 0.63v. However, you are throwing a TPS error code, so you may have to replace it.

For the baro error, I'd start by checking your maf connection.

 

[dugan33]

Ok i changed the direct access back to stock it made a difference. its still not drivable its hesitant like a bad tps youre right. however why should i have to change that it worked fine before i installed ecmlink.

 

[Mischif]

You need to get a wideband of some kind. I wouldn't be changing anything beyond factory defaults on link if you dont have a wb.

 

[c2ypt1c]

Ok i changed the direct access back to stock it made a difference. its still not drivable its hesitant like a bad tps youre right. however why should i have to change that it worked fine before i installed ecmlink.

Your DA is still not completely stock as indicated by the bold lettering in the menu list on the left of the screen. For the remaining values, you have to toggle stock values (<->), then right click the table and select "reset to stock."

But, like you said, it ran fine before ecmlink...hmm, what year ecu did you swap in?

EDIT: I was just reviewing the ecu pinout for a 1g (link here) and noticed that pin 23 is 5v power for Barro and TPS Make absolutely certain the ecu harness is completely plugged in. If it is, check the pin 23 wire...

 

[dugan33]

Pin 23.... hmmm I'm getting some vacuum line for the fpr. My vacuum line I had wasn't really vacuum line but surgical watson barlow. I'll check the stock settings again I think you're on to something with pin 23. I have a 1990 talon Gawd tsi with 1990 ecu 1994 coil pack and power transistor it worked on a 94 ecu before.

I have a wide band I just haven't installed it I got all these parts at the same time. I need something to thread my o2 for wideband into.

 

[casperfast]

you can instal the wb in the o2 housing location and select "simulate narrowband" in link and it will act as a narrowband to the ecu and you will be able to read the wideband. just have to tap into a signal wire to the ecu. im not sure which one it is in the 1g but the pin out will show you. i rean mine into the rear o2 input at the ecu, installed in the front o2 location and have nothing connected to the front o2 plug, reads fine and the fuel trims are adjusting off it.

 

[dugan33]

ok so i got it running off of these settings. i have the 880pte injectors 15g/20gcompressor turbo, stock intake, and no wideband yet. i plan to install wideband in place of my o2 sensor like you said and replace my intake next weekend. However, currently my car shuts off when i launch if i take off it falls on its face and usually shuts off. any idea why this is? i probably wont be able to change things up til this weekend but any ideas and advice would be great.

 

[steve]

Fix the cause of the fault codes for the TPS and Baro before driving it any more, please.
The once they are fixed turn off locking the ECU in open loop.

It's going to run like crap until you fix the two faults because it's forcing the ECU into limp mode.

 

[dugan33]

i think my air intake is whats messing those two up. There was no check engine light before the ecu swap but it did die like it does now, just less frequently. it could also be pin 23 still or both. it was loose but seems to have a connection. you can pull it out freely by hand though i just put it in there and taped it down. my air intake looks older than the vehicle... its missing the rubber gasket that goes around the filter and it doesnt fit tight at all. if changing the intake two the 2g doesnt work this weekend il look into it before doing anything more. I have also taken off the tps and adjusted it as suggested before. i didnt see any major change. However, i have been through a lot of dsms and have never seen a tps fail on a 1g. any other ideas of what i should try out this weekend? thank you for the info so far it really has helped.

i put my CEL issue in a different thread.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/electrical-tech/454638-cel-tps-baro-after-ecu-swap.html

 

[dugan33]

I have a 1990 AWD Talon TSi. It previously had a 1994 ECU swapped into it and ran without check engine light, but did die if you ran it hard and just came off the gas. The mods included 16g/20g compressor turbo, hard IC piping, still sidemount IC, stock injectors, walboro 255, stock 1g intake that is in very poor condition with leak around filter.

Now it has a ECMLink 1990 ECU. It dies more frequently and throws codes for TPS and BARO. It has larger 880 PTE injectors now and a Fuel Lab fuel pressure regulator but it still has that crappy intake.

I checked pin 23 and did my best to make sure it has a good connection.

Why do you think these codes are being thrown? I need to fix these before I can attempt to tune.

 

[steve]

Your logs show that the TPS voltage is flatlined at 0.02v. I didn't see that you captured the Baro voltage.

The first thing to to would be to check the signals at the TPS connector and at the MAF connector.
With the ignition on you should see 5v at pin 1 of the TPS (green/red wire) and pin 3 of the MAF. It comes from pin 23 on the ECU. If you don't get the 5v sensor power to them you'll need to check to see if it's a ECU, connector, or wiring problem

 

[dugan33]

it must be that pin 23 if it has no power it was giving me trouble to stay in there. but wouldnt it not run without a tps?

 

[steve]

it must be that pin 23 if it has no power it was giving me trouble to stay in there. but wouldnt it not run without a tps?

There are other possible causes but go get a volt meter and start solving it. This is like internet bench racing applied to diagnostics.

The car will run without the TPS and Baro sensor, just not well. Both cause limp mode adjustments which are intended to allow you to "limp" home rather than strand you.

 

[stars]

"limp" home rather than strand you, yeah Steves correct I've done that a few times with my first DSM, trust what the codes are telling ya dugan33.

Go with the first code and fix that, either it's a faulty wire or bad T.P.S sensor. You may have to end up and solder in a new connector to that sensor. Then fix the second code, usually it is the MAS sensor inside the air filter housing, replace that then test drive. Make sure the codes do not return and recheck for any codes after you have test drove around the block or 2.

You may have to start the new T.P.S. setting to 0.61 volts and adjust from there and try to start the tune. If the sensors are not correct it will reflect in the engines performance.

 

[dugan33]

Ok, so I tried swapping pins 6 and 14 because I do have a 94 coil pack and transistor on a 90 ECU. It did fix the TPS sensor code. Then to fix the BARO code, I tried swapping a 2g MAF into it and the code did not go away. So, I still have a barometer code and my car still dies when I let off the gas sometimes especially after just accelerating.

I'm also pretty sure I'm loosing oil somewhere, and running rich its probably from my cheap eBay turbo though. The code doesn't appear right away when you start the car but after about 30 sec it pops up. My BOV was also leaking so I crushed it and it doesn't leak anymore. However, when I setup the 2g MAF the new BOV is not recirculated.

 

[92AWDHX40]

How is it running rich how can you tell, how are you loosing oil pressure? is your pump bad is your oil gauge showing low pressure? Perhaps you have a bad 2g maf.

 

[steve]

ok, so i tried swapping pins 6 and 14 because i do hat a 94 coil pack and transistor on a 90ecu.

If you look at pins 6 and 14 you'll see that one is for the IPS and the other for the MAF reset.

It has nothing to do with the transistor and everything to do with having a 91+ ECU in the 90 car before. I suspect they were swapped then and not swapped back when you put a 90 ECU back in it.

Let see your log now.

 

[dugan33]

Oh, I thought i had to swap because of the ignition year difference I guess I never looked what the pins were actually for I just listened to what my friend said. Either way, it had to be swapped I guess.

I cannot upload logs right now because it's on my friends laptop and I'm at work.
I doubt the 2g MAF is bad it was working before and this issue existed with my 1g MAF as well.
Also, I can tell its rich because there was literally black goop coming out of my exhaust at one point.

Any other reasons my barometric pressure sensor would be going off? Is it on because of how its tuned and how rich it is?

My oil pressure is actually below the suggested line at idle but I think every DSM I've had runs below that line at idle. When I'm driving its within range.

 

[dugan33]

i have also found oil all over my intake piping and i can actually witness it come out of my BOV. im leaving my intake vented to atmosphere to try and reduce the oil going back into the intake. would by turbo with bad oil seals cause my car dying after accelerating problem? what should i clean out and inspect on my intake, and how should i do it? im going to take the old cheap ebay turbo out and put in a newer 16g mhi this weekend.

i also have stripped out studs on my exhaust manifold the studs just fall out they dont thread into the block. can i try getting new studs or will i have to tap it out?

i have also found oil all over my intake piping and i can actually witness it come out of my BOV. im leaving my intake vented to atmosphere to try and reduce the oil going back into the intake. would by turbo with bad oil seals cause my car dying after accelerating problem? what should i clean out and inspect on my intake, and how should i do it? im going to take the old cheap ebay turbo out and put in a newer 16g mhi this weekend.

i also have stripped out studs on my exhaust manifold the studs just fall out they dont thread into the block. can i try getting new studs or will i have to tap it out?

 

[dugan33]

I cleaned the throttle body competely ics pins, tps, pins, maf pins, maf sensor, and i replaced my ebay turbo. I'm still getting baro error code. i dropped it off at a performance shop to get it tuned i guess il see what they say. is a baro code something that can be set due to incorrect a/f ratio tune?

 

[steve]

is a baro code something that can be set due to incorrect a/f ratio tune?

nope, it's due to the readings (or lack of) from the sensor in the MAF

 

[dugan33]

Do you think you could tell me what the voltage is supposed to be for pin 6 and 14?