ECMlink DSMLink v3 Help.

[RT-AWD]

Well when the dead time was lower it didnt want to idle correctly. We typed in my injector size and it gave us X, when we used X it idled very rough. My friend is much more DSMLink saavy then i am. He showed me what he did and i have basic knowledge but, i dont want to undo a bunch of stuff and go out for a pull and blow something up.

 

[MY1GDSM]

Well when the dead time was lower it didnt want to idle correctly.

What were the rest of the setting in link at the time?


You should zero everything out and start from your base settings again... . You already have some serious side affects of the way it is set up now as IMO.

You shouldn't really be going of what the calculator spits out too you and just use it as a starting point. But just adjust from what you observe the injectors acting(or what they have been tested at) as I don't see any 1000 injectors needing that much Deadtime for any reason... What Injectors are they exactly? not many "1000cc" injectors flow that let alone at a lower BFP.

Also just wondering your using the Ecmlink GM Maf cable correct?

 

[RT-AWD]

yes that is the cable i'm using. All other settings were zeroed out. I have Precision 1000cc injectors. I'm reluctant to start all over again. i dont have a whole lot of time since i'm about to graduate college and im on the frantic search for employment/finishing school work.
The car runs great and pulls real nice. i'd much rather make adjustments to what i have now.

 

[MY1GDSM]

It's going to be less hassle to address these issues another way I really don't see this as running great IMHO

 

[RT-AWD]

so basically start over...

 

[Gamble97]

DA = direct access tables

 

[Calan]

The car runs great and pulls real nice. i'd much rather make adjustments to what i have now.

I agree with MY1GDSM above. Based on the logs you've provided, I don't see the car running "great". If you think it is, you're in for a real treat once it's properly tuned.

so basically start over...

Simply starting over with known good default values would most likely put you closer to a good tune than you are now.

 

[snowborder714]

If you want help in person this weekend, let me know. I live fairly close by.

I agree with everyone else - it'd be much easier to just start over.

 

[RT-AWD]

I know that the UEGOs dont read correctly out of the box and i'm trying to fix mine and the videos on how to do it seem easy enough. However in my case my gauge is wired into my Baro and the linwideband/afest are close in some areas and way off in others. How do i go about fixing that? Here is a short cruise log with some idle and a short pull.

 

[MY1GDSM]

I know that the UEGOs dont read correctly out of the box and i'm trying to fix mine and the videos on how to do it seem easy enough. However in my case my gauge is wired into my Baro

Exactly what model number AEM do you have most don't read below 10:1(0.68 lambda)

so I would assume that it's not set right? being that it shows 9:1 in that log if it doesn't if not and it does read the low you could always do this anyway and use what ever lambda value the gauge reads lowest to

when the gauge flat lines there you can see the raw voltage at that point.

I suggest you remove the sensor from it's bung, rather then do it the way in that video and unhook the sensor it will defualt and give you a 14.7 reading that you can match up to the Raw voltage for lambda 1, Then Take a break clean soaked rag put the sensot in it and hook it up(widebands don't like to get shocked by moister when hot already) the gauge will flatline rich and you can match up the Raw volts to lambda 0.68)

Here is a screen shot before of what it should all look like

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the linwideband/afest are close in some areas and way off in others. How do i go about fixing that? Here is a short cruise log with some idle and a short pull.

You would just Watch you MAF RAW and adjust you maf Comp at those points to get them to match.

Hope that helps

 

[RT-AWD]

Exactly what model number AEM do you have most don't read below 10:1(0.68 lambda)
when the gauge flat lines there you can see the raw voltage at that point.

I suggest you remove the sensor from it's bung, rather then do it the way in that video and unhook the sensor it will defualt and give you a 14.7 reading that you can match up to the Raw voltage for lambda 1, Then Take a break clean soaked rag put the sensot in it and hook it up(widebands don't like to get shocked by moister when hot already) the gauge will flatline rich and you can match up the Raw volts to lambda 0.68)

Here is a screen shot before of what it should all look like

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You would just Watch you MAF RAW and adjust you maf Comp at those points to get them to match.

Hope that helps

So take the sensor out of the bung, disconnect it from the gauge itself, the gauge will read 14.7, match it the the raw lambda voltage. reconnect and soak the sensor in brake clean, reinstall it, run the car to get it hot and match the raw volts. correct? I had Jon (from page 1) tune the car and he didnt used the sliders at all so they are defaulted.
to the right of that picture it says .68 lambda is 10.1 is your... min volts?

i have the 30-4100 model gauge.

 

[Jon91TSi]

So take the sensor out of the bung, disconnect it from the gauge itself, the gauge will read 14.7, match it the the raw lambda voltage. reconnect and soak the sensor in brake clean, reinstall it, run the car to get it hot and match the raw volts. correct? I had Jon (from page 1) tune the car and he didnt used the sliders at all so they are defaulted.
to the right of that picture it says .68 lambda is 10.1 is your... min volts?

i have the 30-4100 model gauge.

Maf comp sliders were adjusted to get your trims in line, but the fuel and timing sliders were not used in favor of the DA tables. What My1G is saying that that once you get the afr on the AEM to match the output you see in link you can tweak the MafComp sliders in the areas where it does not match to bring it closer in line. You'll never get it 100% perfect, so as close as you can without wasting too much time is about the best you can do.

 

[MY1GDSM]

Okay let me claify a bit... . Keep in mind this way there is no reason to start the car at all just start a log with the Key set to ON.

So take the sensor out of the bung, disconnect it from the gauge itself, the gauge will read 14.7, match it the the raw lambda voltage.

yes it will default to 14.7 you can then look that the Raw voltage and set in the linearwideband MAX lambda of 1 to the Max voltage you seeing in link

reconnect and soak the sensor in brake clean, reinstall it, run the car to get it hot and match the raw volts. correct?

You just take the Unhooked sensor, set the sensor in a shop rag that's been soaked in Brake clean covering it so that the AFR drops as low as it will go, Then plug the senor back in, you want to do it after as I said so that you don't shock a sensor that's already warmed up... .

I had Jon (from page 1) tune the car and he didnt used the sliders at all so they are defaulted.

to the right of that picture it says .68 lambda is 10.1 is your... min volts?

i have the 30-4100 model gauge.

Lambda isn't going to change based off of the same fuel, Though differant fuels have differant equations of lambda vs the fuel

But lambda 1 is always Stoich This is why a GAS wideband will read 14.7:1 as stoich still even though you have something like E85 being used... .

See here

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Your just trying to see what voltage the is being logged at for the lowest it will read(which in your case is 10:1 or (lambda 0.68) ... Though it's important to use some common scene with this as it you look at the White papers(for your particular gauge) and it reading something WAY higher then what it should(in some cases) then it would be a good Idea to either get a buffer from ECMlink or set things differantly( I won't get into that to much though as it doesn't aplpy to you from what I seen the other day in the log)

I've been meaning to do a right up on this as I don't like the way the videos do this for calibrating them as I don't see the point in dumping a bunch of fuel at idle... . Maybe when I have so more free time