DSMlink trouble, idle?

[Jonnyktm]

Today the battery in my car died. So like i was told by the guy I bought it from, I proceeded to hook up DSMlink and set my global and deadtime for my injectors and turn the fans on. My DSMlink is V2 so I have to do this every time the battery dies. But today I was a moron and after hooking the car up to jump start it, I turned the key and fired her up. Which I heard was bad since my car is not very close to stock and has bigger 660 injectors. what surprised me though is that the car fired right up (faster than normal) and idled at 1200RPM pretty much perfectly. Being the newbie that I am I shut the car off remembering that I wasn't supposed to turn it on... I then set the deadtime and global right for the 660 injectors and turned the fans on. I proceeded to start the car and it struggled a bit starting (like it used to) and idled really weird (like it used to). it idled at about 700rpm and when given a little gas it revs up and hangs at about 1500rpm then slides on down to about 700rpm. I know the car needs a real tuning but, why would it act better on the "stock tuning" than the compensation of the larger injectors and such? do I just need to adjust the idle in DSMlink or is there some magical way that the tuning it reverted to when the battery died is the right tuning? if there is a way i can post videos on here? if so I can take video of both of the settings in the car and you guys can hear and see whats going on.

Basically, what should I do? I am not a pro with DSMlink, and there is no one for a great distance that can tune it. If i let it run on the "stock tuning" and it idles smooth and "better" in a sense, does that mean I should leave it that way all the time until I can get it tuned? or with the compensation and the crappy idle, the car is safer to run and less likely to ruin itself? Any helpful insight would be awesome.

Thanks guys.

 

[snowborder714]

Post up a log and fill out your profile with your mods.

 

[bertrenolds]

How big are your injectors? Your MAFcomp probably wasn't set correctly and you have to set your TPS as well. The 2g thing with the flash getting lost if you disconnect the battery sounds like a PITA, I would upgrade to V3 just because of that if I were you. I'm glad I have V2 for a 1g so this doesn't happen.

Do you have acces to DSMlinks forums? If not you need to watch the tutorials on how to set your TPS and then run MAFcomp at idle, then go for a cruise, then run it at WOT so your MAF is set correctly

Does the guy you bought it from have the cord and laptop or do you? And did he give you a saved file backup of all the last settings?
Once you do everything above you adjust your fuel using info from your wideband and what rpm you are at for your fuel settings.

 

[Jonnyktm]

The guy gave me the laptop and cord, but there are no old tunings to reload on there that I can find. I will try to get a log and put it up soon, and I tried to get on the DSMlink forum and it wouldnt let me.

 

[92AWDHX40]

ecmlink diddt help much until i solved the basics of my idle issues, boost leaks, and a bad isc.

 

[snowborder714]

I hope you also got the chip and OBDII adapter (adapter only if it's v2.5). If not, you got gipped and don't really have DSMlink.

 

[Jonnyktm]

No I have the the whole DSMlink. If I didn't I wouldn't have been able to even connect to my ECU let alone change it at all.

 

[Jonnyktm]

Sorry for the wait guys, I did an idle log on both the "stock" fuel tune and the modified tune (-30 global 180 Deadtime) and at first I was thinking the stock one was doing much better, besides idling at 1500 RPM... but after letting it run for a bit and fully warm up then it acted really odd. The idle went up and down from about 1200 to 700 and back constantly. the other tuning just seems to be all over the place compared to those videos I watched. I also looked at the airflow section and my VE table has a bunch of "corrections" I will put a picture of that up too. I also looked at the RPM settings which was 750 idle, 4500 launch, and 7500 max. If that is helpful at all.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

This is the "stock" fuel setting at idle, and that big spike is where i revved it the rest was the idle.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

This was the compensation tune, -30 global and 180 Deadtime at idle with the big spike being a rev.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

This is the VE table that already has a lot of values changed.

Any input would be awesome, Thanks guys.

 

[snowborder714]

Download the v3 application and take a log with that, then post it up.
ECMTuning, Inc.

 

[Jonnyktm]

I know this is a stupid question... But which one of those do I download? Do i get the "stable" complete install or the "Early access" windows update?

 

[snowborder714]

Download the stable complete install first, install it, then download the early access update only and install it.

 

[Jonnyktm]

ok thanks out of curiosity, what is going to be different about it when I update the software? shouldn't the readings be the same on the car?

 

[snowborder714]

Yes, but the newer version of the software is much nicer to work with, and has some additional features that make tuning a bit easier.

 

[tcouty87]

Be careful getting ## car jumped. Batteries are made to be voltage spike absorbers but its actually pretty easy to fry the diodes and transistors in your ecu.