2G DSMLink front O2 Volts?

[95badasstsi95]

I just hooked up my Dsmlink V3 today. I set it up according to the demos on ecmlink, the front O2 is only reading .02v At idle, it does not bounce around as shown in demo. When I hit the throttle it will spike up to .96, and back down to .02 , is that normal or is my O2 bad. Its is not idling for shit, it just wants to die. I am using Pte 780s from what I found the is global -38. and deadtime 315. My airflowprerev is reading about .26-.29. But what really confuses me is my combinedFT is sitting at 16.8 which i believe is high can someone help understand thanks

 

[snowborder714]

The o2 reading should oscillate from .05 to .95v at idle. If it's not moving, it needs to be replaced.

 

[95badasstsi95]

Thanks snowborder, that's what I thought but I was not sure. My wideband comes in next week would I still have to run the stock O2?

 

[Tyeler18]

What wideband did you get? That'll make a difference

 

[95badasstsi95]

Aem uego

 

[snowborder714]

Yes, you can install it in place of the front o2 sensor. You'll need to enable narrowband sim in v3 to do so.
v3narrowbandsim [ECMTuning - wiki]

Another link you'll want to have because of trying to log an AEM in link.
aemwb [ECMTuning - wiki]

 

[95badasstsi95]

Sounds like Aem sucks. I think I am going to return it. what do recommended?

 

[snowborder714]

Innovate brand - either the LC-1, or the newer MTX-L. I've been hearing great results of the MTX-L recently, so that'd probably be my top pick.

 

[95badasstsi95]

Cool its 10 bucks cheaper. thanks for all the help.

 

[Zefal151]

Yeah, i just bought the MTX-L from amazon, 2 day shipping and the complete kit for 189. Was told by quite a few people to get the LC-1 so i figured the MTX which is a step up would be a good choice

 

[68442]

Your ecu is trying to add 16.8% more fuel than airflow etc indicates. Add deadtime until your o2 starts cycling. I assume your pegged lean at idle. Watch the demo again, it shows you how to set your airflowper rev and then set deadtime.

 

[Spanky_DSM]

I got link installed last night and today i was just logging to make sure everything was in check.

Upon the o2 cycling i saw a reading of

.04-.75 at idle and .04-.88 during cruise.

Is this due to a bad o2 censor or is it just requiring some adjustments?

Sorry to ask but im completely new to link.

Thanks

 

[WES_393]

A narrowband sensor is supposed to oscillate from .2-.8v

However, O2 sensors aren't perfect and will vary in voltage. But as long as it's oscillating, and doing so at a decent rate it should be fine.

 

[TSIGuy510]

my 02 sensor is usually staying between 0.9 - 1.0 not cycling. does that meen i need to replace the sensor?

 

[snowborder714]

Yes, or see if there's something that's causing the o2 sensor not to cycle.

 

[TSIGuy510]

Yes, or see if there's something that's causing the o2 sensor not to cycle.

Ok thank you

 

[911gdsmboostin]

I went through the same as about my volts were stuck at .02v so I started using nb simulation which worked as expected but I wanted to utilize the nb sensor Soni bough an o.e. sensor brand new and replaced it disabled the nbsim and now the volts are not occilating they are moving but super erratic it doesn't go from one number to another it's jumps around worse then the timming at idle, I've seen numbers from .28 to .96 it does move up and down but so erraticly it seems somthing is wrong. Any inside would be appriciated

 

[steve]

Please post a log with your tuning questions. Saves everyone a lot of time.

 

[911gdsmboostin]

Will do as soon as I get home

 

[911gdsmboostin]

Please post a log with your tuning questions. Saves everyone a lot of time.

heres a log of start up angivg slight throttle

 

[Slobonator4G63]

The o2 as posted about by many should cycle from .2 to.95 if your O2 decided to cycle well your driving and appears to look okay but then goes right back to .2 it is usually due to a dead heater circuit in the O2 that will only really trick you into working. I played around with o2 for a week or so trying to figure out why it would work after a couple good pull and came up with this conclusion that the heater circuit get hot enough to measure voltage again. I was also in a tight bind and did research into a solution to fix my o2 on the cheap side. So I went online and found out what the oem replacement sensor was and came up with a few different options weather it was NGK or denso. I looked around online at wiring diagrams and basically took a used 02 cut it in half and took my old o2 sensor and did the same and matched up the colour according to what I saw. And for what ever reason it worked like a charm and I was oscillating again. The information I came across was that basically all O2 sensor operate around the same parameters and that this link http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/o2-sensor-wire-at-ecu.374306/ allowed me to wire my old connector to the replacement o2 I got. The 2 wires that are the same are almost always the heater circuit and the other is siginal and gnd. This other site will help out as well with identifying what wire is what. http://www.aa1car.com/library/o2sensor.htm. It worked for me, Im not going to say it will work for all. So if you do choose to do it, you are doing it at your own risk so double check your work.

 

[steve]

While I think about what all the log is showing, let me verify that there isn't anything else wired up to the NB ECU input but the new NB O2 sensor and that the wiring wasn't modified to connect to your wideband controller before.

The O2 signal is noisy and acts a bit like the heater isn't working.
Do you have a slight miss at idle?
Is your BOV vented? I see you enabled Idle Air Clamp, are you still seeing the same problems that caused you to enable it or has fixing your IPS, TPS, and throttle cable fixed the underlying problem?
Wait, you're simulating the IPS so you may not have fixed that yet.

 

[bo0st]

My front 02 was doing the same thing until I performed a MAFComp adjust.

https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/v3mafadjcombft

 

[steve]

My front 02 was doing the same thing until I performed a MAFComp adjust.

https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/v3mafadjcombft

Step 1 is critical. Failure to get both the global fuel and deadtime correct will lead to invalid MAFComp settings. As Tom and Dave have posted elsewhere, the factory MAFs are pretty accurate at measuring airflow; so if you have to make much change in the MAFComp values for a stock MAF you may have other issues that you're using the MAFComp to bandaid.

For example: If you have 650cc/min injectors running at the manual base fuel pressure of 37 psi and you find that your settings are much different from the reference data on the ECMTuning site for that brand you need to ask yourself why you are different. There may be a valid reason like your base pressure in different, you have a voltage issue, or your injectors have DSM specific calibration data. Failure to account for differences can lead to stacking errors.

Using this log, I'm left wondering why the fuel global is -36.3 with a deadtime of 425 us on top of changes made to the DA table and both the fuel sliders and MAFComp are modified from baselines.

I'd expect something more in the range of -30% and 330 us with no other changes so you can see what the measured airflow/rev is, what the O2 signal looks like (to make sure there isn't a sensor or ECU problem), and where the trims are going.

 

[911gdsmboostin]

Step 1 is critical. Failure to get both the global fuel and deadtime correct will lead to invalid MAFComp settings. As Tom and Dave have posted elsewhere, the factory MAFs are pretty accurate at measuring airflow; so if you have to make much change in the MAFComp values for a stock MAF you may have other issues that you're using the MAFComp to bandaid.

For example: If you have 650cc/min injectors running at the manual base fuel pressure of 37 psi and you find that your settings are much different from the reference data on the ecmtuning site for that brand you need to ask yourself why you are different. There may be a valid reason like your base pressure in different, you have a voltage issue, or your injectors have DSM specific calibration data. Failure to account for differences can lead to stacking errors.

Using this log, I'm left wondering why the fuel global is -36.3 with a deadtime of 425 us on top of changes made to the DA table and both the fuel sliders and MAFComp are modified from baselines.

I'd expect something more in the range of -30% and 330 us with no other changes so you can see what the measured airflow/rev is, what the O2 signal looks like (to make sure there isn't a sensor or ECU problem), and where the trims are going.

I appriciate all this info it is more then most can provide, this car is on a totally new set up so some things may not be adjusted to where need be I'm still working on it every day I try to do what I have read is right as far as tuning for closed loop and wot.. woth that said this car is a fwd auto and what I have ready base fuel pressure is soposto be 43.5psi which is where it's set and have che cked a few times to varify. I have tuned via resources on this site how to tune for closed loop and trying to get ltft lo and ltft hi (for 1gdsm) as close to 0 as possible they seem to change any time I change global dead times so I adjust to get them close. At 43.5 psi fp the calculated number I get it 36.1 I believe it was (don't quote me it may have been slightly differant ) and dead times were adjusted to get the ltft close to where I read was right.


The maf clamp isn't activated.. atleast I believe so I un checked the box under maf clamp that said activate or enable, thus making it inactive Son i believe ( if I'm wrong please inform me how to do so ) just haven't taken it out of my loge values, from what I Seen its the same as my maf reading usually.


My wide ban is wired into my egr heater wire only I never touched ft o2 due to the idea I wanted to utilize the narrowban

I do hear a slight miss at idle at times not all the time but a trained ear can hear it happen every so often I want sure if it was just me but I know a miss when I hear it. It hasn't caused any issues at a so I never worried too much about it and was hoping the closer in tune I get that ot would go away

If I am doing anything wrong please point me in a right direction I've tried not to ask to much because I can read how to and I'm trying my best to fallow each step. With all mechanical values in check. My car is equipped with 650cc fic injectors is an auto fwd evo 316g and supporting mods all around. (I'd post a build thread but I can't seem to upload a pic it says it's too big even when I crop them)

I dono if this helps but when the old sensor that was believed to be bad was in the volts were stuck at .20v never moved... when I enable nb sim it works fine car runs fun idles fine and all even though I only have white wire wired in for wide ban I never wired the gray wire in for nb simulation but was told it can still work just not as a curate.


Also as mentioned before I'm simulating idle switch, I did have it working properly for a short time but it decide to stop working again. And rather then keep playing with it I decided to just run simulation until winter and figured I'd go novel it again when I put it away for the year. I have a few races and test and tunes left this year and wanna get the car broken in a dialed in a bit before the end of the year .


Any other info is greatly appriciated if you need more logs or anything lete know I haven't tried driving with the narrow ban the way it is in the log when I Seen it was acting up I went back to nb sim hoping it would be safer for the sensor. Also had a friend who works in a dealer look at it he said may be a prob with the heater curcit as well.. I'm very mechanical incline but I'm usto general auto repair using link and figuring out in depth theory and stuff like this is a little new to me I have a good understanding of it just need ot know what to look for..


Thanks again for all the help