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DSMLINK Cruise/Idle Log, Advice

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rconlon67

15+ Year Contributor
105
0
Dec 13, 2006
Yardley, Pennsylvania
Cruise/Idle Log.
Note:Also posted in the DSMLINK forums, but this site is always so helpful also.

I followed the instructions on a DSMLINK manual I found on this site. I have check for boost leaks(I found a few but fixed them) and I hold up to my 15PSI Fine. Also have double checked base timing and fuel pressure, both are spot on.
Any advice or opinons on the log and where to go from here would be appreciated.
The one thing I am working on now is I have ordered a new TPS sensor as I cannot seem to get mine to give me consistant values(everytime I let of the throttle I get a different value; from 0.61-0.8)

Thanks,
Ryan
 
Get your coolant and intake temps down. The intake temp is making the ecu pull timing.

Change the global to something like -53%.
 
Get your coolant and intake temps down. The intake temp is making the ecu pull timing.

What are some ways to do this? It was an 80+degrees out when I did this run. I would Assume it would be pretty close to outside temperature, is this a bad assumption? The times when the intake temp is over 100 is when the car is sitting still, not getting any flow.


Change the global to something like -53%.

Why do you suggest this?
I used the formula found in the DSMLINK Manual(Adjustment = 450 / 720 – 1.0 = 0.625 – 1.0 = -0.375 or –37.5%) and got 450/1050-1=0.57XX or 57%

Thanks for the reply,
Ryan
 
rconlon67 said:
What are some ways to do this? It was an 80+degrees out when I did this run. I would Assume it would be pretty close to outside temperature, is this a bad assumption? The times when the intake temp is over 100 is when the car is sitting still, not getting any flow.

Make a cold air intake that goes where the smic was/is. Try water wetter and more water than coolant. Look at your speed in the 60 second range and compare it to your intake temp.

rconlon67 said:
Why do you suggest this?
I used the formula found in the DSMLINK Manual(Adjustment = 450 / 720 – 1.0 = 0.625 – 1.0 = -0.375 or –37.5%) and got 450/1050-1=0.57XX or 57%

I'm suggesting this because of a few things. Your 02 sensor is displaying lean. Changing the global to a less negative number adds more fuel across he board. Since your fuel rims are stuck at zero it would appear to me that the ecu was trying to add the maximum amount of fuel due to positive fuel trims before you started the log. The ecu couldn't compensate enough so it gave up on trying to adjust the fuel trims.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Make a cold air intake that goes where the smic was/is. Try water wetter and more water than coolant. Look at your speed in the 60 second range and compare it to your intake temp.



I'm suggesting this because of a few things. Your 02 sensor is displaying lean. Changing the global to a less negative number adds more fuel across he board. Since your fuel rims are stuck at zero it would appear to me that the ecu was trying to add the maximum amount of fuel due to positive fuel trims before you started the log. The ecu couldn't compensate enough so it gave up on trying to adjust the fuel trims.



Thanks alot! I asked why because I am trying to learn, not because I was doubting your answers. I will try your suggestions tonight and post another log soon(if everything goes well, tonight).

Any other inputs are welcome as well.

Thanks again,
ryan
 
your intake temps are fine. your coolant temps are a little high( just a little) try to keep them around 190 to 200 at cruise. your fuel trims seems to be in line. i would say your ready for
wot pulls. im assuming your running 880cc injectors, input your values for a/f.

i think you should do some rev tunning( espicially your 50hz slider) look on dsmlink wiki for further instructions.
 
Make a cold air intake that goes where the smic was/is. Try water wetter and more water than coolant. Look at your speed in the 60 second range and compare it to your intake temp.



I'm suggesting this because of a few things. Your 02 sensor is displaying lean. Changing the global to a less negative number adds more fuel across he board. Since your fuel rims are stuck at zero it would appear to me that the ecu was trying to add the maximum amount of fuel due to positive fuel trims before you started the log. .

one should never go buy o2 sensors to judge a/f ratios.
 
no, widebands are the only way verify your a/f ration. the o2 readout will give you a rough ball park number, but i would not trust it. most people say that a o2 output of .90-.92 is safe. well i run a a/f of 11;1 ( wideband verified) which is quite conservtive and my o2 reads out .72 at wot. just goes that it is not wise to estimate your a/f ration by your o2. just my .02.
Alfredo
 
no, widebands are the only way verify your a/f ration. the o2 readout will give you a rough ball park number, but i would not trust it. most people say that a o2 output of .90-.92 is safe. well i run a a/f of 11;1 ( wideband verified) which is quite conservtive and my o2 reads out .72 at wot. just goes that it is not wise to estimate your a/f ration by your o2. just my .02.
Alfredo

All we have to go by on HIS setup is the o2 voltage. Look at his voltage in most of the log. It is so low that nobody can argue the point I was making about it being lean. I didn't give any specific air/fuel ratio that he his running.
 
Ok guys,
I did not get a chance to mess with the temperatures, but I was able to:

1)mess with my throttle cable, it seems as if it was a little to tight. I loosened it up a bit and it really helped out my idle. (TPSV now sits @ 0.57 and hits 5) it was not doign this before).

2) change my global setting from 57%-55%. Looks like is richened things up a bit, but both LFT(LO and MID) are positive, according to the manual I think I should go to 56%? but I am confused because it looked like this change realy helped with what appears to be a lean condition.

3)I know this is only a NB O2 sensor. I have an LC-1 that I am goign to try to install next. I just didn't want to throw another variable into the equation as I only have the sensor and controller and not a seperate guage.

3)I took off SelectedLFT which I think was a mistake, but after this second run, it seems like my LFT at IDLE(LFTLO) is alot higher than CRUISE(LFTmid) According to The Link manual I think I should increase dead time, does this sound right?

4)my knock looks out of control, is this beign cause by a lean condtion? I ask because I need to double check the install procedure of the knock sensor as I know I did not torque it perfect(Does anyone have a link handy :), if not I'll just search)

Thanks for any input or suggestions!

RyNo
 

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